BKXC sure doesn’t like it in his latest video. He did have all sorts of problems with the install a while back …. so maybe he’s not the greatest mechanic.

 

It can be painful watching him work on something new to him.

 

My negative experience with it is that it makes all cable actuated drivetrains seem clunky and crude in comparison and now I have to sell all my old school bikes. Also it's so easy to install and adjust that it might put me out of a job someday 🙃

 

Shifter pad fell off while jra, SRAM is warrantying it, waiting to see if they change anything to improve retention (if not I'm going to try vhb tape).

 

OP seems to have an odd negative SRAM fixation. On your other recently posted anti-SRAM thread, didn’t you state you’d never buy another SRAM product? Why do you care about this? Go buy some Shimano stuff and be happy.

 

Exactly what I was going to say, between his 3 threads all I can come up with is that Sram is the devil and Shimano can do no wrong.
If you'll never own another Sram product why start a thread asking about Transmission issues if they won't apply to you? Validation on your hatred of Sram? I get you don't like Sram but It's not like Shimano makes perfect stuff either, countless broken XT/XTR shifters, creaking XTR cassette, dry/notchy clutches, unbonded Ultegra cranks, disintegrated ceramic pistons, leaking master cylinders, wondering bite points, etc.

 

I have the XO version, install was easy and straight forward. The only problem I have is the chain will not stay on the 38 tooth. It will move to it but skips and if it does seat any movement of the bike sends it skipping. Double checked apps instructions for set up cog, chaing length and repeated set up again, same problem. If I use the micro-adjudt to "trim" it out then the shifting on the other gears goes to crap. Gave up took it to my LBS and they "fixed" it, first ride it started to do it again. So as of now I am torn, not sure I am 100% sold on it. Maybe if this issue is resolved I will like it more.

 

I have the same exact problem with mine. In the 3rd largest cog the chain skips regardless of how much power I’m putting down. I put it in the repair stand to see what was going on. In that gear the chain rides with the rollers on top of the cog teeth and subsequently skips. It’s almost as if the chain is completely stretched out. I have emailed SRAM and am waiting for a response. Other than that I really like the drivetrain. And I have been a Shimano user for 30yrs

 

I have no problems. But friend of mine had similar problem as above on his ebike. In his case it was the chainline. I mounted a different 4 arm spider with the chainring and it was fixed.

The SRAM Transmission seems to work with a 53mm chain line and 55mm. With chain line under 55mm. Can be that chain is falling off when pedaling back.

 

I have no problems. But friend of mine had similar problem as above on his ebike. In his case it was the chainline. I mounted a different 4 arm spider with the chainring and it was fixed.

The SRAM Transmission seems to work with a 53mm chain line and 55mm. With chain line under 55mm. Can be that chain is falling off when pedaling back.

I have mine set up w/ a 52mm chain line and it works flawlessly, including backpedaling

 

Will somebody please make a "Do you love your SRAM transmission? Post here." thread? We can compare the responses of both the negative and the positive.

 

Some just prefer to keep things on the negative side.

 

So in the end we've established that someone's torque wrench kinda sucks. Good job LH! Mission accomplished!

 

I don’t have a sram transmission, but my neck and back hurt.

 

Sorry forgot some decimal points, (.8-.9), yes it is in the trash now.

 

Yeah… I’m not sure OP will find any meaningful (non user induced) issues with the Transmission. The engineering is next level… this isnt something a couple guys in a garage drew up. This is a finally a purpose built derailleur for a mountain bike.

For my own tinkering purposes, I moved the driveline in a few millimeters. I spend much more time in the middle to larger gears and it just made more sense to me looking at the chain angle on the largest cog with the standard 7.5mm spacing.

 

Yeah… I’m not sure OP will find any meaningful (non user induced) issues with the Transmission.

You (and others) realize that "how the issue was addressed" is the fundamental part of this thread? That is, errors that users make that cause problems are useful to share because chances are, someone else will make the same mistake. Should the derailleur be overly sensitive to torque of the mounting bolt, that's very useful information - if it can be confirmed that this was the actual cause of the bad shifting.

 

A friend just took his new Top Fuel with T-XO drivetrain out for a first ride last weekend. He loves the bike itself btw. Regarding Transmission, he reported dropping off a skinny and snagging the derailleur hard, with no evidence of damage. Shifting remains superb.

My wife and I did brief test rides of his new bike up/down the street. It's interesting to stand up, grab a handful of brake, and shift up/down. Some shifts are immediate and others laggy, depending on where the cassette happens to be positioned at the time you tap the button. Pretty cool, but we're not convinced we'll do the upgrade on our year-old Top Fuel's. On a new bike like our friend's, it seems like a no-brainer.

 

What y'all doing to your derailleurs? Everybody constantly crashing on the derailleur?
There are other things that come to my mind that are more prone to failure. Tires are probably my number one items that get damaged. I even collapsed wheels (riding, not crashing) but never a derailleur, not even bent a hanger once.

The most delicate part on a bike to me would be a $3,000, $4,000, $5,000 carbon frame. That's one unlucky crash (or other mishap) away from a financial disaster. Next thing would be fork stanchions. A derailleur destroyed in a crash? I don't care too much because most of my derailleurs are worth roughly $100. I could crash a lot of those derailleurs and hangers until I hit the price of "Transmission". At that crash rate I'd start questioning my riding style though.

The promo with people standing on derailleurs with their sneakers are pretty misleading and practically irrelevant. Hit them hard with a rock - the derailleurs, not the people. What hurts more, a beat up $600 derailleur or one that costs $100?

 

What y'all doing to your derailleurs? Everybody constantly crashing on the derailleur?
There are other things that come to my mind that are more prone to failure. Tires are probably my number one items that get damaged. I even collapsed wheels (riding, not crashing) but never a derailleur, not even bent a hanger once.

Where do you ride? Smooth trails, parks ? No rocks?

 

I don't have the new SRAM transmission, but my problem with it is the price. That and it seems to be solution looking for a problem.

 

I believe Sram's main motivation behind "Transmission" are bauxes. On those things, the bulky look of the derailleur perhaps doesn't bother too many people, neither does the weight.

 

The longer-term independent reviews I've read all suggest it's nearly impossible to damage the system. I recall reading another (can't find it now) in which the reviewer tried his best to damage the thing, without success. Has anyone read or experienced anything different re: damage to the T components or the rest of the bike? I've only read speculation.

Long term review of the SRAM Eagle Transmission groupset – Is direct mount the future of shifting? | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine (enduro-mtb.com)

SRAM Eagle T-Type drivetrain and Code Stealth Brakes (nsmb.com)

Review: 1,000 Miles on SRAM's New Eagle Transmission - Pinkbike

Here's Mike Kazimer's experience (from the Pinkbike review):

I try not to smash the back end of my bike into too many rocks and roots, but those impacts do happen, especially on tighter trails where veering off line results in quite literally getting stuck between a rock and a hard place.

In one instance, my front wheel washed out on slippery root that was hidden behind a fern. I hit the ground hard with my right shoulder, and the driveside of the bike took the brunt of the impact. Despite being smashed directly into the ground and covered in dirt the derailleur didn't need any adjustments, and once I'd re-composed myself I was able to keep on riding without doing any trailside repairs.

That was the most dramatic incident, but there were plenty of other moments where it was scraped against rocks, banged against stumps, or subjected to other impacts that could have damaged it... but they didn't.

I've seen comments raising concerns about the possibility of the derailleur breaking a frame due to the lack of a sacrificial hanger, usually followed closely by the conspiracy theory that SRAM got rid of the hanger to sell more expensive derailleurs. In both cases, I'd say those worries are unfounded. The way the derailleur is mounted means the frame is well protected from an impact – it's braced on both sides, and connected to the axle system, which greatly reduces the amount of leverage the derailleur can put on the frame. The force required for the derailleur to affect the frame would be extraordinary, the type of hit that would likely rip a traditional derailleur clean off and shove it into the spokes.

In addition, the derailleur is serviceable – the parallelogram link, skid plate, and cage can all be replaced separately, allowing riders to refresh their derailleur without needing to buy a whole new one.

As for battery life, I'd typically check to see if the light on the derailleur was green or red once a week and charge accordingly. The battery life is said to be a little less than the 20-hour run time of the previous AXS drivetrain, but in practice I didn't notice a dramatic difference.

 

What is bauxes?

 

baux is bicycle with auxiliary motor, an "e-bike" in the world of bikes with pedals

 

I've never heard of that.

 

So it's motorcycle?

 

no, it's just an alternative, short and univocal name for a pedal-assist e-bike, where the motor is an auxiliary device, in contrast to e-bikes without pedals where the motor is the only means of propulsion.

 

Ah, so it doesn't have a motor then.

 

Having a strange issue. Installing t-type groupset on my Revel Ranger v2. I have followed the SRAM installation guide and triple checked all steps. Everything works great until I get to the last step and tigher the thru axle. Once the axle is tightened, the cassette locks up. It seems like the smallest cog is rubbing against the inside of the derailleur mount. I have to leave the axle ridiculously loose for the cassette to turn. I have removed and reinstalled multiple times. Any ideas?

 

It seems like the smallest cog is rubbing against the inside of the derailleur mount. I have to leave the axle ridiculously loose for the cassette to turn. I have removed and reinstalled multiple times. Any ideas?

Sounds to me like the problem is in the wheel as I don't see how the derailleur could be too far left. Cassette not installed correctly? Any spacer behind the cassette that should not be there?

 

A very thorough 6 month / 1000 km independent review from Scotland. BikeRadar review of SRAM T-type XX Transmission. Note the photos and description of bashed up derailleur.

The XO T-type is compelling IMO for a new OEM build. However, upgrades on our 2022 bikes are tough to rationalize financially, especially for a husband-wife pair. Another factor is current availability is limited to 32t chainrings. At my age I won’t give up my 30t security blanket.

 

The XO T-type is compelling IMO for a new OEM build. However, upgrades on our 2022 bikes are tough to rationalize financially, especially for a husband-wife pair. Another factor is current availability is limited to 32t chainrings. At my age I won’t give up my 30t security blanket.

FWIW you don't HAVE to run a T-type compatible chainring; I'm running a normal SRAM compatible chainring on a non T-Type cankset and it works flawlessly. SRAM says this will have sub-optimal chain retention and accelerated chain wear but I haven't experienced this so far.

 

I just came across this thread and have been having a similar issue to others where I have issues in the 3rd largest cog (3rd gear).

SRAM Support is out of ideas. I’ve reinstalled it multiple times, everything is torqued to spec with a snap-on digital torque wrench (derailleur and axle).
I can set micro adjust to either have 3rd gear somewhat working but I have it set all the way inboard at the #1 micro-adjust setting or I set it so all the other gears are good but chain skips on 3rd gear.
Very frustrating when all my less expensive stuff works better.

seems like a couple of you “fixed” your issue by torquing it to spec but mine already is

 

I just came across this thread and have been having a similar issue to others where I have issues in the 3rd largest cog (3rd gear).

SRAM Support is out of ideas. I’ve reinstalled it multiple times, everything is torqued to spec with a snap-on digital torque wrench (derailleur and axle).
I can set micro adjust to either have 3rd gear somewhat working but I have it set all the way inboard at the #1 micro-adjust setting or I set it so all the other gears are good but chain skips on 3rd gear.
Very frustrating when all my less expensive stuff works better.

seems like a couple of you “fixed” your issue by torquing it to spec but mine already is

I had the same issue and bringing the chain line in to 52mm fixed it for me, no idea why though... (It also gives me a slightly better chain line for the bigger cogs which is nice, since that's where I spend the majority of my pedaling time).

 

yeah that's odd. I'll 'push' 3mm of spacers from the drive side to the non-drive side and see how that affects it.

I still think it's very weird that others are having a similar experience with only the 3rd gear though, still can't wrap my ahead around it outside of a manufacturing defect which I do not think this is at all.