The dub crank is boost or. On-boost. It is the chainring. You will need a 6mm offset chainring. Not sure if you are buying a complete kit or not.

The axles come with the frame and fork. Make sure the hubs on the wheels match.

 

The dub crank is boost or. On-boost. It is the chainring. You will need a 6mm offset chainring. Not sure if you are buying a complete kit or not.

The axles come with the frame and fork. Make sure the hubs on the wheels match.

Not sure I fully understand. Are you saying I can’t use dub cranks and BB with the 135mm rear hub, or I can but need something additional to make it work? Thanks for the reply, this is the type of info I’m needing.

 

That's an insanely short chainstay and reach on that bike. It may have more of a BMX like feel to it than MTB. Be careful when cornering too fast or getting too far behind your saddle. Take time to adjust yourself to this bike setup.

Other than that, have a ton of fun. I'm crazy enough to build something like that!

 

That's an insanely short chainstay and reach on that bike. It may have more of a BMX like feel to it than MTB. Be careful when cornering too fast or getting too far behind your saddle. Take time to adjust yourself to this bike setup.

Other than that, have a ton of fun. I'm crazy enough to build something like that!

View attachment 2011393

Thanks dude. And yah, I used to do some bmx, which is exactly why I wanted this frame.

 

Cool frame.

Formerly Nurse Ben built one SS: Short chainstay DJ that will fit a 27.5 wheel?

@Sanchofula (as he goes by now) can probably help you.

HS: integrated tapered IS42/IS52
BB 68/72 threaded
The 135 spacing in the rear might need some looking into as that's going to influence your drive train choices but you are certainly non-boost (148).

Edit: the short stays will make the chain line angle more severe, so all the more reason to be sure your chain ring / chain line is hunky dory. I didn't proof this link but the picture is helpful for what I'm describing: Bicycle chainline explained | BikeGremlin

 

Cool frame.

Formerly Nurse Ben built one SS: Short chainstay DJ that will fit a 27.5 wheel?

@Sanchofula (as he goes by now) can probably help you.

HS: integrated tapered IS42/IS52
BB 68/72 threaded
The 135 spacing in the rear might need some looking into as that's going to influence your drive train choices but you are certainly non-boost (148).

Edit: the short stays will make the chain line angle more severe, so all the more reason to be sure your chain ring / chain line is hunky dory. I didn't proof this link but the picture is helpful for what I'm describing: Bicycle chainline explained | BikeGremlin

Right, I just now realized it's 135x10. Finding a complete rear seems to be the challenge ATM. The one's I was looking at are a no go. Also looking for 135x12 with use of an through axle adapter 12-10. Will check out Nurse Ben's thread to see if I can find any good info there. Apprecieate the reply.

 

So long as you know you are building a DJish, Freeride-ish, urban assault, hooligan bike - I'd lean into what it is.

With that, I'd source a regular ol' 135 rear with a Shimano HG freehub and do a standard 11sp or something more oddball like a wide range 9sp: Box One/Two P9 X-Wide Multi Shift Groupset

I like these sort of projects and bikes. But the emphasis is on the steeze and not pedaling efficiency epics.

 

So long as you know you are building a DJish, Freeride-ish, urban assault, hooligan bike - I'd lean into what it is.

With that, I'd source a regular ol' 135 rear with a Shimano HG freehub and do a standard 11sp or something more oddball like a wide range 9sp: Box One/Two P9 X-Wide Multi Shift Groupset

I like these sort of projects and bikes. But the emphasis is on the steeze and not pedaling efficiency epics.

Fair, I'm probably over complicating things with wanting the latest and greatest which I probably won't even see the benefits of. Definitely going to check the link you provided. Any recommendations on complete wheels if I go this route?

 

There are no 135x12 hubs. They make 135x10 and you can use a 10mm through bolt, DTSwiss makes them. Or just a standard 135 quick release hubs will work as well.

Ik that Hope and DTSwiss make 10mm end caps for their hubs.

 

Thank you. I wasn't able to find complete wheels with 135x10 hubs on DTSwiss, but will check hope. My brain hurts, I'm probably screwed with this build lol

 

FWIW there is 135/12mm thru bolt but that's not what we are talking about here.

I believe your bike is just a 135mm/10mm vertical dropout eg: QR or a bolt on...not a thru axle.

tldr; Buy a 135mm hub.

Axl: You need 135mm/10 or endcaps to convert the hub to that standard. If you want a bolt on- go for it (that's what I'd do) but it's an extra.

Freehub:
XD = SRAM 11sp, 12sp
Shimano HG = Shimano 11sp and varianets
Shimano Microspine = Shimano 12sp

I think you can find plenty of pre-built 135mm wheels which you can then convert to 10mm and throw in a generic bolt on axle.

Some Set-ups/choices:

Here is a kit to convert a 135mm Hope hub to a bolt-on: Hope Pro2 EVO/Pro4 R Hub Convert Kit 10x135mm B-O

A link to all of Hope's AXLE conversions and compatibility: StackPath

Standard hub: StackPath

Here's a similar conversion kit for DT Swiss *XD: DT Swiss XD End Caps for 135mm x 10mm Thru Bolt hubs: fits 240, 350, 440

On my Canfield DJ w/ horizontal dropouts (SS) I put on a bolt on axle like this: Conversion Axle - 135x12 Hub to 10mm Bolt-On

^Edit: I just checked - 100% I had a 135mm/12mm I stepped down to a 10mm bolt on.

Odd but interesting options:

This is an expensive 135mm/10 hub w/ an XD driver. No idea on how it works in a 12sp set-up: Onyx MTB ISO XD-135/10mm Bolt-on Rear Hub

Here is a odd but cool 6sp trials hope rear hub in 135mm; Hope Pro 4 Trials Rear Hub - Bolt-on x 135 mm, 6-Bolt, Threaded, Black, 32H
"Convertible to 10mm Thru Bolt x 135mm, 12mm Thru Axle x 135mm, and 12mm Thru Axle x 142mm with end caps and axle kits."

Here is a 135mm QR in Microspine (shimano 12sp): https://www.coloradocyclist.com/hope-pro-4-rear-disc-hub-135mm-quick-release-ms-6-bolt


Watch your bike get built: Here's a guy doing a build with some 135mm bolt on Hope hubs:

 

FWIW there is 135/12mm thru bolt but that's not what we are talking about here.

I believe your bike is just a 135mm/10mm vertical dropout eg: QR or a bolt on...not a thru axle.

tldr; Buy a 135mm hub.

Axl: You need 135mm/10 or endcaps to convert the hub to that standard. If you want a bolt on- go for it (that's what I'd do) but it's an extra.

Freehub:
XD = SRAM 11sp, 12sp
Shimano HG = Shimano 11sp and varianets
Shimano Microspine = Shimano 12sp

I think you can find plenty of pre-built 135mm wheels which you can then convert to 10mm and throw in a generic bolt on axle.

Some Set-ups/choices:

Here is a kit to convert a 135mm Hope hub to a bolt-on: Hope Pro2 EVO/Pro4 R Hub Convert Kit 10x135mm B-O

A link to all of Hope's AXLE conversions and compatibility: StackPath

Standard hub: StackPath

Here's a similar conversion kit for DT Swiss *XD: DT Swiss XD End Caps for 135mm x 10mm Thru Bolt hubs: fits 240, 350, 440

On my Canfield DJ w/ horizontal dropouts (SS) I put on a bolt on axle like this: Conversion Axle - 135x12 Hub to 10mm Bolt-On

^Edit: I just checked - 100% I had a 135mm/12mm I stepped down to a 10mm bolt on.

Odd but interesting options:

This is an expensive 135mm/10 hub w/ an XD driver. No idea on how it works in a 12sp set-up: Onyx MTB ISO XD-135/10mm Bolt-on Rear Hub

Here is a odd but cool 6sp trials hope rear hub in 135mm; Hope Pro 4 Trials Rear Hub - Bolt-on x 135 mm, 6-Bolt, Threaded, Black, 32H
"Convertible to 10mm Thru Bolt x 135mm, 12mm Thru Axle x 135mm, and 12mm Thru Axle x 142mm with end caps and axle kits."

Here is a 135mm QR in Microspine (shimano 12sp): https://www.coloradocyclist.com/hope-pro-4-rear-disc-hub-135mm-quick-release-ms-6-bolt


Watch your bike get built: Here's a guy doing a build with some 135mm bolt on Hope hubs:

Great info here. Thank you!