FWIW,

My 2012 XT DynaSys drivetrain mutations

3x24/32/42 rings to 24/36/nothing RaceFace Turbine

Replaced XT FD with SRAM X0 FD, my frame uses e-type direct-mount so to get proper front shifting I needed the cage closer to the rings, SRAM makes a couple front-d's that are spec'd for 36t larger ring, 2x style.

Flipped switch on XT shifter from 3x to 2x mode.

Works great.

 

Im looking to set up a salsa Fargo or Surly Ogre for bikepacking and gravel/dirt road touring. I think a 22/32/44 crankset would suit my purposes. DEFINATELY require the 22t. Not certain about 44t or 42t large ring.
I was thinking along the lines of the 2013 SLX 10 speed grougset. BUT....crankset is 24/32/42t i believe. So !!!
1. Just buy a 22t and replace the stock 24t. Giving me 22/32/42. Would I miss the 44t? Derailleur CAPACITY problems?

2. Replace 24 and 42 with 22 and 44. Derailleur CAPACITY problems?

3.Buy 9speed 22/32/44 SLX crank, 9 speed F Dr, 9 speed F Shifter....then everything else 10 speed 2013 SLX.

4. Is there a 22/32/44t 10 speed crankset that will work with everything else 2013 SLX?

Your thoughts please!!! It is probably evident that im a beginner.

 

I just did the CTR with 21/34/bash chainrings on an Ibis Mojo SL that was almost 40# full loaded with gear. Crank and double FD are 9-spd SLX and rest of the drivetrain is 10-spd XT. For [non-loaded, not-bikepacking] normal use, I run 22/36/bash ring set. Cassette is 11-36. I know flatlanders out there can't fathom running gears that low, but almost all my mountain biking is in the mountains at altitude. Throw 10-20 pounds of gear onto the bike and low gearing makes even more sense. Don't let the machos out there shame you into tall gearing.
If you never ride much on pavement and, then you will not miss the big ring. A 32 is a bit small as a large ring, but a 36 [with a 11T on the cassette] gives you a decent high gear for gravel/dirt. With a 36T as my big ring, I can briefly sprint up to 33-35 MPH and pedal all day long in the low/mid-20s. If I'm riding faster than the mid to upper 20s, then it probably means I can coast anyway...
The switch to a 24T as the granny on the new 10-spd cranks is somewhat offset by the choice of a 11-36T cassette. But it's no problem to swap out the 24T granny for a 22 or even a 21. BTW, a 21 takes minimal filing/grinding of the spider, but a 20 [yes, you can do it!] takes quite a bit of spider reshaping.
And just to reiterate, ANY 9-spd [double or triple] crank will work with a 10-spd drivetrain - you don't need a new 10-spd crank.
edit/add: Chainrings for SLX/XT... or just about any 104/64mm crank are interchangeable.

Im looking to set up a salsa Fargo or Surly Ogre for bikepacking and gravel/dirt road touring. I think a 22/32/44 crankset would suit my purposes. DEFINATELY require the 22t. ...snip...
Your thoughts please!!!

 

i know less than you but in my research i found that on a xtr crank it's a hassle to go from 24 to 22 because the bolt pattern or something is different, however this may not apply to slx.

capacity problems solved with sgs long cage der

i am using a 9 speed xt crankset and it doesnt shift as well as a 10 speed setup so personally i would avoid that

44 and 42 large ring not worth worrying about imo at least as far as riding goes

 

Alivio 3x9 crankset with M661 Dynasys FD

Hello!

My bike is a 26' full Alivio.
I would like to upgrade my Alivio 3x9 drivetrain, but only step by step because of the budget...

I first bought a rear derailleur XT M772 9 speed to upgrade my Alivio one, but for the front derailleur I intended to use the SLX M661 9 speed.
Unfortunately, when leaving the shop I got a SLX Dynasys FD 3x10 instead of the 3x9 one... and the shop is in Austria and I'm in Romania!

Question: is it going to work the 3x10 FD with my 3x9 crankset or should I buy another FD?
Or is it possible to replace only the 44T with a 42T one?
I saw in this thread that overshifting/undershifting may appear...

Thanks!

 

Running an SLX triple Dynasys front, swapped out the 24T for an FSA 22 (9&10 compatible). Kept the 32&44, 44 being a bashgaurd with traction ;o) The rear is the 11-36 10 spd XT dynasys.

My frame is the RIP9, doesn't shift 32 to 22 on the stand, but when I'm on the bike and the suspension is sagged, shifts just fine. I wanted the gear inches I had on my HiFi, 9 sp 22/32/44 with an 11-32 9 rear in 26 inch format, so 22-36 with 29 wheels was necessary. Shifts great when riding.

 

ATM i got Shimano 3x8. planning to upgrade to 2x10 in stages. If i buy slx 2x crankset with fd and fr.shifter do i need to change anything else? Will it work with 8sp chain? Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

Hi guys,

Read about 10 pages of this thread but couldn't find my answer.

currently my setup is:
- 970 cranks - 22-32-42
- XT 770 FD
- LX front shifter

I want to change the shifter.
In the future I may change to 2x10, keeping the same cranks and front derailleur.

What shifter should I buy?
- 9 speed XT 770 shifter - 3x - and after migration to 2x10 will lock it from the FD screws?
or
- newer XT 780 2/3 x 10 shifters.
Will the 780 3x mode be compatible with my current setup?
Will the 780 2x mode be compatible with the (ghetto) 2x10 on the 970 cranks? I heard that the 2/3x switch on this shifter will oblige you to use the 2x ring in the middle and on the outside (not on the inside/granny and middle)

thanks

 

Does anyone know if EITHER the Shimano 10spd MTB FD or 9spd MTB FD will work with road (e.g. Dura Ace) shifters?

 

^ None of the MTB front derailleurs will work properly with any road STI levers as they require more cable travel than the levers have. If you're talking about bar end or downtube levers then there's no problem, since these are not indexed.

 

yes

yes

 

yes

(im trying to make the dang required initiation number of replies so I can post an important question about a crank arm...sorry)

 

sorry

(im trying to make the dang required initiation number of replies so I can post an important question about a crank arm...sorry)

 

sorry
(im trying to make the dang required initiation number of replies so I can post an important question about a crank arm...sorry)

 

so sorry

:madman:so sorry (im trying to make the dang required initiation number of replies so I can post an important question about a crank arm...sorry)

 

so so sorry

so so so:madman: sorry. (im trying to make the dang required initiation number of replies so I can post an important question about a crank arm...sorry)

 

so so so so sorry

so so so so (im trying to make the dang required initiation number of replies so I can post an important question about a crank arm...sorry)

 

so so so so so sorry(im trying to make the dang required initiation number of replies so I can post an important question about a crank arm...sorry)

 

so so so so so sorry

:madman:so so so so so sorry (im trying to make the dang required initiation number of replies so I can post an important question about a crank arm...sorry)

 

Throughout the course of the day, I've read this whole discussion, but my scenario isn't here, so I'll throw it in the ring:
I'd like to run a complete 10 speed setup using sram components while retaining only my shimano xt cranks, setup 22/36/bash.

My thought is that I've been limiting my 3 speed down to 2 for years, and now there's actually a front shifter designed for that, it should do the job much better, maybe with less effort.

So are there complications using a 10 speed shifter/FD on a 9 speed crank? I'd be ok changing to a 9 speed FD, but I'll be honest, I was hoping to avoid mismatched shifters on my bars. What are the differences in cable pull for the FD from 9 to 10? I'm sure there are some suggestions I haven't considered or wasn't aware of, so thanks in advance for everyones help.

 

The front d cable pull hasn't changed.

I have 2012 xt dynasys shifters, my front d is an SRAM x.0 2x for 24x36.

Since I know SRAM has not changed their cable pulls, in know Shimano hasn't either.

Sent from my brain using neurons fueled by glucose

 

I just installed my 1-10 set up with 38 tooth up front my question is should the front ring be on the outside or the middle, or if it can?

 

Whichever gives you a more centered chain line to the rear cogs I would think.

Sent from my brain using neurons fueled by glucose

 

M980 2x10 chain ring help! need better granny!

hi all,

i have a new setup with:
m980 xtr 2x10 26/38 and 11-36 xt cassete rear and xt m780 direct mount FD

i have weak legs and dying on steady long steep climbs with this current setup.

Would the m980 xtr 3x10 24t be a direct swap?

is there anyone i can put on a 22/34 combo? if so, can anyone point the way?

 

hi all,

i have a new setup with:
m980 xtr 2x10 26/38 and 11-36 xt cassete rear and xt m780 direct mount FD

i have weak legs and dying on steady long steep climbs with this current setup.

Would the m980 xtr 3x10 24t be a direct swap?

is there anyone i can put on a 22/34 combo? if so, can anyone point the way?

Are you running the XT shifters? If so, the front works with both 2 and 3 via scores (turn).
Smallest front Shimano crank ring is a 24 (as they added the teeth on the cassette).

 

You'll likely need a different front-d to go with the triple.

Check the shifter / manual - it is possibly switchable to 3x mode if you want to, but will work as is if you are only using 2x on the new cranks.

Sent from my brain using neurons fueled by glucose

 

I apologize for not being clear, I meant if I am able to simply buy the 24t inner chainring from the triple version and replace my 26t inner from the double?

Since shimano said something about AE version (triple) and AH version (double)

 

My parts & situation are slightly different, but might be helpful. I'm running 10sp dynasys on a 9sp M770 (XT) crank, I've used both 9 & 10sp small rings in sizes 22, 24, 26. All worked flawlessly matched with a 9sp 36T shimano ring.

 

Thanks! that's helpful. i'm looking at 9spd rings, and there are AA and AB types, what does those mean and are they relevant?