[Jrp103]

Did anyone else see this on the NZ or Australian agents social media… what it’s it?

 

[bdreynolds7]

View attachment 1954347
Did anyone else see this on the NZ or Australian agents social media… what it’s it?

Looks like a new Topaz with new decals and a Jade X reservoir

 

[slomtbr]

A standard mount Topaz 2?

 

[Jrp103]

Looks like a new Topaz with new decals and a Jade X reservoir

Yeah the shaft is massive and maybe stainless? That would solve most of the topaz issues

 

[Hawthorn]

I don't think it will solve any issues but a shaft of this size on that body will make performance worse imo, only the owner can comment on how it performs really

 

[Rick Draper]

View attachment 1954347
Did anyone else see this on the NZ or Australian agents social media… what it’s it?

Launched now!

 

[233946]

Launched now!

What launched? Links to a product announcement would be helpful.

 

[ramoer]

 

[bdreynolds7]

Looks like its an updated T2 and better suited for bikes with leverage ratios starting at 2.4 and lower.

 

[294037]

Looks like its an updated T2 and better suited for bikes with leverage ratios starting at 2.4 and lower.

That’s an impressive insight, what detail in particular do you think makes it suit low leverage bike?

 

[bdreynolds7]

That’s an impressive insight, what detail in particular do you think makes it suit low leverage bike?

Just because I read it from DVOs website lol

 

[Jrp103]

I rung DVO and it’s neither a t2 or t3. It’s a all new topaz inspired by crappy bikes that are not straight or want to snap shock shafts. As well as remedying all the niggly issues the older topaz shocks have had

they seem really excited about it

 

[294037]

Just because I read it from DVOs website lol

Ah ok, that refers to the "current" Topaz, Topaz 2 is the new ones with the High volune "debonair" style cans

 

[slomtbr]

Ah ok, that refers to the "current" Topaz, Topaz 2 is the new ones with the High volune "debonair" style cans

The Topaz 2's reservoir is 90° to the air sleeve, whereas the T3 Air's reservoir is parallel to the air sleeve.
Product finder – DVO Suspension

 

[HollyBoni]

Hey everyone!

I have a Radon Slide Trail 8.0 (140mm rear, Horst link) with a Rockshox Deluxe Select+ shock. My issue with the bike is small bump sensitivity. I'm pretty light at 65kg/143lbs. If I set the shock at around 150-155psi, the small bump sensitivity is pretty good (still not as good as I would like), but I blow through the travel very quickly. I haven't experienced hard bottom outs yet, the frame is progressive and I also played with volume spacers, I feel like I just blow through the travel too easily. If I set it around 175psi, it's great on bigger (at least bigger for me) hits, but on everything else it's just too harsh.
A lot of people mention how plush the Topaz is. Do you guys think in my case it would help with small bump sensitivity? Or does it blow something like a Deluxe Select+ out of the water in every aspect anyways? Not sure if it's my frame that's not that sensitive (if that's even a thing) or if it's the shock.
I'd love to try coil, but unfortunately I don't think there is enough clearance.

 

[294037]

The Topaz 2's reservoir is 90° to the air sleeve, whereas the T3 Air's reservoir is parallel to the air sleeve.
Product finder – DVO Suspension

yes that is correct, the T2 also has the larger air sleeve at the negative end which is what they are referring to with the HV description

 

[alex.k]

Okay so a few more rides on the enlarged sleeve port - now I use the last third of the travel more easily on chutes(no +ve spacers as before), and lips/steps feel a smidge more compliant. Also no strange wallowing after hitting holes while seated cruising.

Isn't the part in bold on Cary's post referring to "dynamics", or what you might mean by that..?

The hole between chambers is small, but so is the air volume moving between the chambers too. I haven't tested this myself, nor have I seen any dyno charts from similar tests, so technically it might be that you are correct too and the enlarging the transition hole would have effect. Technically it could be restricting air flow in an observable way, however I doubt this, as the solution is pretty much similar on all air shocks and I'm sure if this would be a real problem, it would have been addressed by now...

If it would be too small, the small hole would work as an orifice, which is (or might be) restricting airflow between air chambers. But the effect of this restricting effect should depend on speed of the airflow thru that hole, effectively it would be an air damper. You can go with the syringe analogy; Fill syringe with water and compress it slowly, not much resistance, then try same but fast, suddenly there is a lot more resistance. The media(water) is different than in shock(air), but fluids behave in similar enough manner to make this kind of analogy work...

Hence, if making the transition hole/cut bigger, it should restrict the air movement less, so with same settings/pressures otherwise, the shock movement should become more supple, not firm as you seem to have observed. Effect could be similar on rebound direction too, so with bigger transition hole the rebound should be faster on big movements...

As for the firmer stroke it was at slow shaft speeds because it's a fixed volume now and pressure rates are fixed while beforehand at a slow rate of compression the pressure would "ooze through" to the sleeve, releasing the pressure being built up in the canister. The shock is softer at high shaft speeds as everyone stated, which I hadn't firstly observed.

 

[provin1327]

i'm trying to do a rebuild on my topaz t3 but the damper end cap is stuck, doesn't even budge. There's a note on it says torque to 27mm. Would I not destroy the lower end on the stanchion that's clamped on the vice?

Perhaps I need a longer wrench?

Did you eventually get your damper end cap removed? I just tried servicing my Topaz and the seal head was stuck on so tight that my attempts to break it free torqued the eyelet so much that I can't get the hardware reinstalled into eyelet. I gave up and send it into DVO and am waiting for a reply. DVO mentioned they have seen issues with anodizing corroding and causing things to stick but I've never seen anything like this before. I was using all of my might and a wrench that was about 14" long to try and break it free but it would not budge, not even after applying a bit of heat.

This is not the first time I've had DVO parts stuck together extremely tight. The first time I serviced my DVO Onyx SC fork the OTT spring cap was totally stuck to the upper leg and I was only able to free it by using some heat, all the strength I could muster and a giant pair of 90* pliers wrapped in a piece of inner tube.

 

[WhatsUpcountry]

Did you eventually get your damper end cap removed? I just tried servicing my Topaz and the seal head was stuck on so tight that my attempts to break it free torqued the eyelet so much that I can't get the hardware reinstalled into eyelet. I gave up and send it into DVO and am waiting for a reply. DVO mentioned they have seen issues with anodizing corroding and causing things to stick but I've never seen anything like this before. I was using all of my might and a wrench that was about 14" long to try and break it free but it would not budge, not even after applying a bit of heat.

This is not the first time I've had DVO parts stuck together extremely tight. The first time I serviced my DVO Onyx SC fork the OTT spring cap was totally stuck to the upper leg and I was only able to free it by using some heat, all the strength I could muster and a giant pair of 90* pliers wrapped in a piece of inner tube.

I've stuck the the strap of a strap wrench around the shaft of my topaz before sticking that in my shaft clamp, I was worried about F-ing it up as well.

 

[provin1327]

I've stuck the the strap of a strap wrench around the shaft of my topaz before sticking that in my shaft clamp, I was worried about F-ing it up as well.

As per DVOs service guide I had the eyelet clamped in a vice and not the body of the damper shaft clamped in shaft clamps.