Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
41 - 50 of 50 Posts
Discussion starter · #41 · (Edited)
OP says the HS uses the 45 degree cartridge bearings, but they're pressed in. Does this setup exist? The only ones I've seen are drop in. Makes me wonder if the creaking is coming from everything not being properly seated (bearing tilted/stuck and not bottomed out in the cup due to tight tolerances and/or damage?).

Also, whoever said CC changed their 40 level bearings is correct. The seal is green and they used different materials elswhere, too, IIRC. The one I got as a backup from Wolftooth looks identical to their old (better quality black oxide) bearings. I was a longtime fan of the 40, but not so sure now since it's not the same thing.

Side note: just about everything's expensive these days. Even more important to keep on top of maintenance.
If you check post #26, you'll see that i'm not the only one who had trouble removing the bearings from the cups. But like I said I didn't try that hard because I didn't want to screw things up even more without having the replacement bearings in my hands. I haven't seen something like this before either.

Did what I always do, said screw it and ordered a CC70. It was only €20 more than the 40.
 
I don't think they do any maintenance other than replace them. A little maintenance goes a long way.
Yea, I don't like to run em until they burn up and toss em.
 
What's considered a fortune nowadays? My 17gal gas tank is nearly a hundred to fill up. I'd prefer to spend that much on bike parts.

My TB4 came with a CaneCreek HS and SRAM DUB BB. Both were replaced with ChrisKing within the first few months. No creaking on either components since I switched to King. Personally, $60-$120 sounds about right for a 21st century headset.
 
If you check post #26, you'll see that i'm not the only one who had trouble removing the bearings from the cups. But like I said I didn't try that hard because I didn't want to screw things up even more without having the replacement bearings in my hands. I haven't seen something like this before either.

Did what I always do, said screw it and ordered a CC70. It was only €20 more than the 40.
Sure, I saw that and it makes sense. Next time.

Once it's wedged in, sometimes the only way to get it straight is to give a few gentle taps around the outer race until it's fully home. Then you can usually pull/wiggle it out without much force or if leaving it in, know it won't self-destruct while you're waiting for a replacement.
 
I dislike Cane Creak 40 headsets. Came original on my two Yetis. They didnt last long. Heck first one got toasted something like on 3rd ride of bike got caught ina downpour. That ride also toasted one of my oem grade DT freehub bearings. I go with either Hope or Chris King as replacements, cry once, no worries after. I have yet to have any of those go bad, and ive been riding for 30+ years. The threaded CK on my ‘92 Fat Chance is fine.
 
Is the crown race properly seated? I'd double check that. I'd also spring for a top shelf headset. I have a King on my main bike that's 28 years old that I've never touched or even thought about. Ever. One bike of mine has a FSA that's not giving me trouble-yet, but I'd like to install something higher end, as soon as I find something in antifreeze green. I've walked the trail home after a Ritchey headset exploded in the past.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Is the crown race properly seated? I'd double check that. I'd also spring for a top shelf headset. I have a King on my main bike that's 28 years old that I've never touched or even thought about. Ever. One bike of mine has a FSA that's not giving me trouble-yet, but I'd like to install something higher end, as soon as I find something in antifreeze green. I've walked the trail home after a Ritchey headset exploded in the past.
No idea. The creaking might not even be the headset. We'll see after I install the new one.
Hopefully the CC70 will last for a while with maintenance.
 
41 - 50 of 50 Posts