The chart is correct. Modern Fox forks use 20wt Gold for all air side baths, soak for the air side foam rings and on top of the air piston. On the damper side, the 5wt Teflon infused oil is used INSIDE the FIT4, GRIP & GRIP2 dampers. Because the FIT4 damper is a totally enclosed system--there is no mixing of bath oil and damper oil--Fox calls for 20wt Gold for lowers/bath oil on a FIT4 fork's damper side as well. NEVER use 20wt Gold inside any damper. It's not damper fluid.
If you have a GRIP or GRIP2 equipped fork, these call for the 5wt Teflon infused oil to be used as BOTH damper fluid AND lowers bath oil. The GRIP dampers are able to purge excess oil into bath area at the top and reingest at the bottom on rebound. Thus, bath oil mixes with the internal damper fluid so both should be the same oil. In addition the volume of the bath oil in a GRIP fork is 40mL (5wt Teflon infused) compared to 10mL(20wt Gold) air side and 15mL (20wt Gold) damper side bath FIT4 forks. Foam rings should be soaked in the same stuff as the bath oil, so for a FIT4 damper fork: 20 wt Gold both sides. GRIP/GRIP2 forks: 20wt Gold AIR side, 5wt Teflon infused damper side foam rings.
In the U.S. the combined price for a quart of 20wt Gold and a quart of 5wt Teflon infused is still cheaper than one quart of 10wt Red for the old dampers. Plus a half pint of FLOAT fluid is a ridiculous price as well. So, the newer Fox forks are less expensive to maintain from a fluid standpoint.
Actually, if you have any older Fox fork with an open bath damper or anything requiring the 10wt Red, it's now the reformulated 10wt Green you require if you want to stick with Fox products. I myself have gone to Redline 10wt (medium) red for my open bath forks. Redline medium kinematics most closely match Fox 10wt red (rebranded Torco) but with a superior Viscosity Index making it more consistent as it heats up. Redline oils can be mixed to achieve different viscosities if u like to play around with that to get a different feel from the fork as well.
A note about FLOAT fluid: it is no longer called for on top of the air side piston. You may note that at least by appearance and feel with human senses, both 20wt Gold and FLOAT fluid have a similar Viscosity and slipperyness (lubricity). They both cling to the sides of the stanchions. Overall it's more economical using the 20wt over the FLOAT fluid. FLOAT fluid is good for refreshing a dropper post between services and people still like to add a few CC's into a rear shock's air can for same reason and timing.