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No, see post 40. I do have another, brand new hangar that I can try if I need to.
New does not necessarily mean straight.

At any rate, skipping on one end of the cassette.. first thing I do is pull out the hanger alignment tool.
 
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Discussion starter · #43 ·
New does not necessarily mean straight.

At any rate, skipping on one end of the cassette.. first thing I do is pull out the hanger alignment tool.
Bike shops are backed up a couple of weeks, and I'm not sure I want to spring for the tool. As I wrote in post 40, I did get the thing shifting properly....I think. It does make me wonder why it started to act up now. I used to be able to simply adjust on the stand.
 
You can try really cranking the bike hard when its on the stand, sometimes that has worked for me to re-create the skip.
But, the reason I move the pulley a bit closer to the frame with the limit screw is so I wont get the problem that you noted by just using the cable adjuster, and having other gears not shifting right.
With the bike on the stand, you can try moving the limit screw while you are cranking it. Turn the screw a little at a time until you hear the chain wanting to come off the cog, then back off a bit.
 
I've had your problem even with a new cassette and chain. My XT nine speed derailleur has more than 25000 miles on it, but what I found after much searching and examination was two things that fixed the issue:
1. There is a screw to adjust the derailleur pivot spring tension that serves to set the derailleur/chain tension in the driveline. Try increasing that incrementally, but don't go nuts as it will help wear everything out faster.
2. There is a screw to adjust the position of the top jockey wheel relative to the cogs. On mine it was set so the vertical gap between the cog and jockey wheel was too much (more than the chain height), and this reduces the amount of chain wrapped around the cog. It should be adjusted so the vertical gap between the cog and jockey wheel is just a little more than the chain (so they are nearly tangent to one another). In this configuration the chain wrap is maximized and increases the load capability of the driveline.
This problem drove me nuts for about a month because slipping under load can damage your personal undercarriage.
25k on a derailleur, yeah I'm calling BS on that.
 
Bike shops are backed up a couple of weeks, and I'm not sure I want to spring for the tool. As I wrote in post 40, I did get the thing shifting properly....I think. It does make me wonder why it started to act up now. I used to be able to simply adjust on the stand.
A knock at some stage . Buy the hanger alignment gauge and it will pay for itself in next to no time . Especially if you help other riders with it .
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
A knock at some stage . Buy the hanger alignment gauge and it will pay for itself in next to no time . Especially if you help other riders with it .
I've been convinced. I just spung for the Park DAG 3, and it arrives tomorrow.....another tool in the arsenal!. If anyone lives in the Philly area, let me know, and I'll check your hanger too! 😁 I do seem to remember, that after a long ride a while back, I leaned the bike up against my car, and it did fall. I also see a few scratches on the derailluer, so there's a decent chance the hangar is in fact bent a bit.
 
Nope. It's a Salsa Vaya. Drop bar bike converted with mountain groupset, Moloko bars. See post 56. I just ordered the DAG 3.
Then you don't need to worry about setting the B tension at sag. Since it's always at sag.

Now, on a hardtail? You're putting a lot more leverage on things when you're riding it than it ever will be in a stand. This is why you need a test ride after a stand adjustment.

Anyway, check hanger alignment, set high limit, indexing, low limit, and b-tension (properly, don't just guess and wing it).
 
The bicycle is best set up on a trainer when doing sag compensation for dual suspension setups specifically .
Trainer? That'd mean I'd have to get conversion axles..
 
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