You need to match the number of links on the new chain not the length. The old chain is "stretched".

If the length is ok, and the chain still skips then you need a new cassette/chainring since it's worn-out.

 

Ok thanks. I’ll check that. I didn’t think “stretched” meant actual length, but rather a loosening of the pins/links.
Can I assume the links are the same length between SRAM/Shimano?


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All links are the same size regardless of the manufacturer.

Well technically the chain doesn't stretch - the longer length comes from worn pins/links.

 

Ime there's nearly a 100% chance that you need a new cassette, or at least replace the cogs that are skipping.

When replacing chains it's super common to get skipping under load . It happens because a stretched chain was run too long and deformed the cog(s) When a new ( shorter) chain is installed it doesn't mate up well.

 

That’s fair. I have 2300km on the current cassette.


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What type of hub? Possible that is is the freehub slipping at high torque?

 

Ibis logo. The bike is almost a year old, 2300km so nothing crazy.


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I had skipping on my small cog caused by installing the master link incorrectly on a SRAM GX chain. Arrows on the link weren't pointing toward the direction of rotation. I don't know if this would apply to a Shimano chain but someone here should know.

 

I had skipping on my small cog caused by installing the master link incorrectly on a SRAM GX chain. Arrows on the link weren't pointing toward the direction of rotation. I don't know if this would apply to a Shimano chain but someone here should know.

There are arrows on shimano as well. I’m good there.

It’s starting to sound more like a new cassette maybe chainring while I’m at it. The old chain was fairly stretched!


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I had a similar issue when I replaced the chain on my XT 12 speed drive train. Didn’t skip but makes a bit of a grinding sound when torquing hard in the three lowest gears.

The cassette was a year old with about 2500 miles on it. I assumed it was worn, but I also assumed (hoped) that as the chain got to know the cassette a little better it would quiet down some and run a little smoother under load. 4-5 months in and maybe it’s a bit quieter, but not so much.


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Thanks. Yes agree, sometimes the new chain on old hardware can take a while to settled in and makes a lot of noise while doing so. I’m not sure this is my issue though. I’m leaning towards a new cassette, maybe chain ring. I’ll buy a couple
extra chains and replace them more often I think.


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Mine was doing this recently and it was a bad link in the chain. It was actually damaged from an impact. Then I made the dumb mistake of installing the master link backwards, and reusing an old one. Stupid. Ended up breaking it again in a completely different spot (that was also impact damaged). Bit the bullet and bought a new chain. Runs much better now.

 

Check your suspension pivots for play, under torque, worn bearing will enable play that throws the chain offline.

disregard, just realized it’s a Hakka..

 

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FWIW, I discovered last night as I was cleaning and lubing my new chain that my E13 helix cassette is basically shredded. Like 3 of the steel cogs are bent, the aluminum rings are fine which is wierd, Don't know what happened there, whether it was a hit or just the massive torque I generate but that is definitely contributing to my issue, so check your cassette too. Tooth wear looks good too. IDK what happened.

 

However under toque on the lowest gear (smallest cog) the chain will skip.

I have 2300km on the current cassette.

Ime there's nearly a 100% chance that you need a new cassette, or at least replace the cogs that are skipping.

I agree with @J.B. Weld... especially if you ride on your smallest cog a lot. There's (obviously) lets teeth engaging the chain on the that cog.

 

I agree. From what I see you guys are right. Thanks for pointing me to that. New cassette ordered and switching to an oval chainring as well


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