[teK--]

How do you go about it if you notice that the bearing cup is starting to glide in a bit skewed? Remove the press and carefully tap with a socket to get the cup centered again?

I either use a mallet and tap the part that is sitting too high.

Or in the case of very stubborn cups, I use 2-3 nylon washers stacked up at 3 points around the circumference of the cup, to support/space it from the frame and help with alignment.

As I press the cup in and bottom out on all 3 washers, I remove one washer from each corner, press in, then remove another washer. eventually it will be guided in far enough that I can remove all the washers and press it home.

If the above doesn't work then I would question the tolerance of the frame and whether the bore is undersized or out of round.

If you want to minimise the chance of trouble you can always throw the cups in the freezer overnight.

 

[Jayem]

If you want to minimise the chance of trouble you can always throw the cups in the freezer overnight.

and hairdryer on the HT for a few minutes before taking the cups out of the freezer.

 

[J.B. Weld]

and hairdryer on the HT for a few minutes before taking the cups out of the freezer.

On carbon fiber? Even if it made the job easier I wouldn't risk it but I doubt it would make it easier

 

[Jayem]

On carbon fiber? Even if it made the job easier I wouldn't risk it but I doubt it would make it easier

I'm not talking about a heat gun for god's sake.

 

[J.B. Weld]

I'm not talking about a heat gun for god's sake.

I'm just saying I wouldn't do it. Also fyi heat shrinks carbon.

 

[Jayem]

I'm just saying I wouldn't do it. Also fyi heat shrinks carbon.

I don't even know that I have for CF frames, since I have the press...but I have two metal frames and I'm sure I did it there.

 

[teK--]

I'm just saying I wouldn't do it. Also fyi heat shrinks carbon.

Heat the carbon frame and freeze the cups. Then they will be a perfect interference fit.

 

[robj20]

On my most recent bike the press just would not pull the cups in straight I resorted to just tapping them in with a hammer and bit of wood like is always done in the past. Works every time.

 

[wiciman]

You start with the press/tooling "centered" in the cups and the cups against the frame. If they start going in slightly askew, just recenter the press over towards the side that's not going in. It'll put more pressure on that side. Obviously there's a limit and some of it just comes from experience. Usually they may start slightly askew, but within a couple millimeters of pressing in they'll straighten out.

Honestly I wouldn't over-think it. Some guys just take a wood block and pound the cups in...

So you press in both cups simultaneously? Using the centering washers on the tool to keep the cups aligned? Sorry for asking, but most videos I have seen of this procedure recommend doing the bottom cup first, then the top one. The frame is expensive so don't want to risk anything...

 

[wiciman]

I either use a mallet and tap the part that is sitting too high.

Or in the case of very stubborn cups, I use 2-3 nylon washers stacked up at 3 points around the circumference of the cup, to support/space it from the frame and help with alignment.

As I press the cup in and bottom out on all 3 washers, I remove one washer from each corner, press in, then remove another washer. eventually it will be guided in far enough that I can remove all the washers and press it home.

If the above doesn't work then I would question the tolerance of the frame and whether the bore is undersized or out of round.

If you want to minimise the chance of trouble you can always throw the cups in the freezer overnight.

Thank you! Using nylon washers as "stop guides" was clever! I must look into that.

 

[teK--]

So you press in both cups simultaneously? Using the centering washers on the tool to keep the cups aligned? Sorry for asking, but most videos I have seen of this procedure recommend doing the bottom cup first, then the top one. The frame is expensive so don't want to risk anything...

I suggest one cup at a time. Less pieces to try and stop moving out of alignment

 

[PuddleDuck]

What's the best way to support/hold the frame when using the park pronged tool to back the cups out?

 

[J.B. Weld]

What's the best way to support/hold the frame when using the park pronged tool to back the cups out?

I clamp the bike on the seat post in a Park shop stand and that works fine but even better if you have a helper to hold and support the frame while you bash it.

 

[Cleared2land]

What grease is not compatible with carbon fiber?

This seems to be a long lasting debate on the internet, but as I understand it, one should avoid petroleum based grease.

I am employed by a manufacturer in the aerospace/aviation industry working directly with production engineering in developing standard practices for the application and maintenance of carbon fiber products. Most of my experience is with polyacrylonitrile fibers utilizing High-modulus and Ultra High Modulus carbon materials incorporating epoxy (bismaleimides and polyimides), hybrid-epoxy based resin system (Bisphenol A / Bisphenol F/ Novalac epoxy resin) and some polymer based resins.

None of the carbon fiber products that I work with have any limitations, constraints or restrictions involving direct contact with petroleum products. In fact, many of these products and components are directly exposed to petroleum products (fuel, grease and oils) in normal operations as a design specification.

While I am not disputing your grease claim, I am not familiar of any carbon fiber resins that exhibit this trait.

 

[DeoreDX]

I've installed headsets with a press. I've installed them with a block of wood and a dead blow hammer. I've done this on steel, aluminum , and CF bikes. A press isn't idiot proof if it starts in crooked stop back it out a try again. Same thing with a dead blow and piece of wood. Lightly tap the race in. Make sure it's going in straight. Keep the board flat to the crown surface. Hit the board in the center of the crown race. Easy taps like you are starting a nail. Slow and steady wins the race. Once the race is about half way in you can hammer a little harder.

When hammering a race out without a 2nd set of hands to hold the frame in the bike stand, I will wrap my arm under the frame like I'm doing a curl, with the frame supported in the nook of the inside of the elbow joint. almost sandwiching it between my bicep and forearm. From this position I can hold the pronged tool with that same arm supporting the frame and hit the back of the tool with the other free arm.

 

[teK--]

What's the best way to support/hold the frame when using the park pronged tool to back the cups out?

I lay the frame on the ground, supported by the workshop floor which has rubber floor matting, and a foam yoga block which can be placed under the down tube, or top tube when the frame is upside down.

 

[dan l]

Whatever you do, don’t force it! Just grab. Bigger hammer.