[kestrel242]

I can't help with all of those questions but I can confirm that the chain line on my stock Ripmo AF with GX is pretty extreme in the lower gears. That's the way the bike is designed stock. For the chain line to be straight, I'm only about 4 gears up from the smallest cog (highest gear). I have never dropped a single chain out of tons of rides on this bike so I just went with the Funn Zippa bash without the guide. Cool thing is, it's a modular design so I could add the chainguide later if I ever start having issues with dropped chains. Good luck. Others will chime in.

So I did confirm that the dropped chain is because of the master link not being set right. As you said, it's an extreme chain line. The drivetrain makes more noise in the 51T gear and if I backpedal, the chain will drop down several gears.

Looks like my choices are:

1. OneUp Switch with the chainguide and a severe chainline in lower gears (skeptical of this, I spend a lot of time crawling in low gears)

2. Garbaruk chainring with a more balanced line but leave out the chainguard.

In theory they should have the same offset but that's definitely not the case.

Going to have to think about this. Thanks.

 

[sfr4dr]

Well, I can say mine shifts and rides great even with the extreme chainline. It will drop gears on the cassette if backpedal'd quickly on the stand but in actual riding where I may just backpedal slightly to get up something technical, it's a non issue. You could probably improve the chainline by a few mm but can't push it too far or the chainring will get too close to the chain stay when under flex. To do this though, you'd have to ditch the guide though.

 

[kestrel242]

Ok, I found out what's behind the discrepancy. Garbaruk uses different offsets for different chainring sizes - smaller rings get you more offset (closer inboard without scraping the stay) and larger rings get you less offset. They call it "variable chainline technology". In my case, I'm using a 28T ring, so it gets a lot of offset. Makes sense - I'll try to live without the guide and see how it goes.

 

[sfr4dr]

28t! You climbing the Alps with that thing?! Haha

 

[kestrel242]

28t! You climbing the Alps with that thing?! Haha

I choose to ride a 10-11% average grade for 10 miles with a 15lb pack. I also get my best results spinning 85 rpm when my cardio is up for it. If you don't want to ride like that or can do it with a 32t, good for you.

 

[argomez99]

chain guide on a Mojo 3

I'm getting a bash guard for my Mojo 3, but wanted to know if there is a real purpose to getting a chain guide along with it. I didnt realize popping the chain off a single front ring was even a thing on modern mtb. Is it worth the added weight and added cost?

 

[sfr4dr]

I'm getting a bash guard for my Mojo 3, but wanted to know if there is a real purpose to getting a chain guide along with it. I didnt realize popping the chain off a single front ring was even a thing on modern mtb. Is it worth the added weight and added cost?

I've had my AF for over a year and ride 2-3x a week during the season and have only dropped the chain once. If you're plowing super rough terrain constantly then yes, worth it but otherwise under normal trail use, no. Just in case, I got the Funn Zippa Bash which is a modular design. I'm not running the chain guide yet but it can be added to the bash guard. Check it out. Really cool design and gives you the option if you change your mind.

 

[sullzz]

So I just went through installing a upper chain guide on my Ripmo V2. It was kind of a pain in the ass and I learned a few things along the way I figured I would pass on.

I first tried using a MRP 1XCS, but there's too much material on the backside of the chain guide that doesn't clear the lower link. I used spacers between the chain guide and the ISCG tabs, but that moves the guide too far outward over the chain to work.

Anyhow, what ended up working for me was the Funn Zippa Lite chain guide. I used 1mm spacers to push the chain guide out and centered over the chain. There's not much protruding from the backside of this chain guide, but the bolt for the slider and a plastic guide for the slider sticks out about 3mm or so. I grinded both the bolt and the excess plastic with a file and now there's plenty of clearance.

I think several other chain guides will work, it's just about finding one with nearly nothing protruding from the backside.

I think the OneUp, Wolftooth, or Absolute Black would work. The aluminum or carbon one from MRP may also work. The Funn one I got was only $35 on Amazon prime.

Also, I'm using a Shimano crank/bb, but I'm not sure that changes anything.