[lagocza]

I am a fairly experienced bike mechanic, I can rebuild forks, build bikes from the ground up, etc. but one thing has had me a bit stumped. Running an XO1 rear derailleur and cassette paired to an XX1 shifter. Sram recommends about 15mm between the rear derailleur pulley and the biggest cassette cog on their 11 speed setups. I have set mine to this and everywhere in between and still have hesitation on some of the middle gears or a slight ticking like it is trying to shift. Hanger is nice and straight (used a derailleur alignment tool) so it is not that like I initially assumed. Setting up Shimano rear derailleurs has been a snap, but I have not been able to get my 11 speed Sram quite right. Issue is not cable tension as the hesitation is going both up and down the cassette. I realize this sounds like a bent hanger, but like I said hanger is as true as humanly possible! Does not have a major affect on functionality, but it still drives me crazy. Any tips you have or something I am missing? Is this issue not even related to the B limit screw? Cheers.

 

[jeffscott]

Something stuck in the shifter, piece of dirt in the grease???

 

[grandsalmon]

I seen a couple of stops the B screw works toward break as a piece (not the tab itself), and since you say hesitation is both up & down, rule out cable hang-up. Hanger straight so mystery to me.

 

[Asmodeus2112]

I have experienced the same thing. I have 5 bikes running GX deraileurs on 1150 cassettes. I too have used a deraileur hanger adjustment tool to straighten them, which helps a little bit. I have replaced cable housing on one of the worst offenders, but it still seems like there is variance between down and up with ticking etc. They all function just fine, but the sound is annoying, and once in a brief while there is a ghost shift or they drop two gears for one index. I'm going to try new cable/housing before throwing in the towel as it's just how they are. I also notice on the b-screw that if it is about right, when shifting to the 42 ring from the the 32 (2 down) that there is a grating sound as the chain slack doesn't pull the pulley away and the pully teeth hit the 42 cog's teeth.

 

[twodogsfighting]

Same here. I think its the tension spring.

 

[Boogedy_man]

How about chain line?

 

[Asmodeus2112]

How about chain line?

I'm running SRAM X1 cranks (GX-1000 1x, X1-1400 and Force CX1 on the cross bike.) So I think chainline should be as SRAM intends. But I will look into this. One of the last variables left, really.

 

[Asmodeus2112]

Same here. I think its the tension spring.

I agree. I wonder if spring tension is different between any of the SRAM 1x11 RDs? All of mine are GX, but I have one CX1. Something to check out this weekend.

 

[zeppman]

Not sure how much this helps, but the gap on my XO1 is about 7mm (when in the stand)... I found on my bike the 15mm gap would cause it to shift like crap.

The reason was the gap would grow when sitting/riding the bike, to almost 12mm. I had a friend sit on the bike while I adjusted the b screw. Hope this helps.

 

[Asmodeus2112]

Not sure how much this helps, but the gap on my XO1 is about 7mm (when in the stand)... I found on my bike the 15mm gap would cause it to shift like crap.

The reason was the gap would grow when sitting/riding the bike, to almost 12mm. I had a friend sit on the bike while I adjusted the b screw. Hope this helps.

Yes, B screw gap matters quite a bit. Most of my bikes with 1x11 are hardtails, but your point is well taken on the three full suspension bikes I have. Right now I try to set it as close as reasonable, about 7mm or so, but then the grinding noise when shifting to the 42 cog gets worse. I set it closer now and try to avoid shifting two at a time up to the 42 cog...

 

[RS VR6]

SRAM wants you to have the suspension sagged when setting the b-tension on the Eagle. Would have been nice if the 11 speed derailleurs came with the adjustment tool like the Eagle does.

This thread may be of some help.

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...ivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/xx1-x01-shifting-problems-read-890329.html

 

[someoldfart]

Is the clutch still smooth? I found that the clutch is susceptible to a certain amount of seizing. They can get super stiff but can be cleaned. The plate that the b tension screw contacts can split. Happens pretty often. A local shop called The Fix makes better ones. I would check that hanger alignment again. For the SRAM stuff they need to be very straight. Shimano is less finicky. Also the mounting bolts are prone to loosening off. They need to be locktited in place.

Derailleur Hangers - The Fix Bicycle Products Inc - The Fix Bicycle Products Inc - Bicycle Repair & CNC Milling - Whistler BC

 

[Loch]

Check the teeth on the cassette, if you a an even slightly bent tooth on the gears it will give you this symptom. This has happened to me with SRAM 1080 cassettes.

Make sure the derailleur linkages are clean, lubed and running smoothly.

Double check the cable is running smoothly in the housing (look for kinks in cable and/or housing).

Rivets on pinned cassette cogs can come loose, this will cause noise in the cassette (never happen to me with SRAM but some XT cassettes have loosened and caused this problem).

I don't know, probably things you've already looked at. Just throwing out some possibilities. Hope you can track it down.

My XX and XO systems have been running very smooth and quiet so far.

 

[Boogedy_man]

I'm running SRAM X1 cranks (GX-1000 1x, X1-1400 and Force CX1 on the cross bike.) So I think chainline should be as SRAM intends. But I will look into this. One of the last variables left, really.

Yeah, that's the only reason I suggested it.

As far as the B screw, I only have one SRAM 11 speed and I was surprised at the wide B screw setting. I tried to close it up on initial setup and everything went to heck.

 

[BobBracket]

With SRAM NX 11-speed 11-42, is the chain gap supposed to be the same on rigid as on full suspension bikes? 15mm?

 

[HollyBoni]

With SRAM NX 11-speed 11-42, is the chain gap supposed to be the same on rigid as on full suspension bikes? 15mm?

Yes, but on a full sus you should set it up under sag.

https://www.sram.com/sites/default/...default/files/techdocs/95-7518-006-000_rev_d_1x_mtb_derailleurs_user_manual.pdf

 

[Th3Bill]

Edit...dup sent
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

[Th3Bill]

FS only under sag on Eagle according to the manuals listed

The 1x11 states with shock fully extended

https://www.sram.com/sites/default/...ites/default/files/techdocs/95-7518-003-000_rev_d_1x11_mtb_rear_derailleurs.pdf

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

[scooterman]

Sram says 12-16mm of gap. I've always had better luck closer to 12mm. This sounds dumb but did you route the cable correctly over the tab?

https://www.sram.com/sites/default/...ites/default/files/techdocs/95-7518-003-000_rev_d_1x11_mtb_rear_derailleurs.pdf