You don’t need to do anything other than run an AXS derailleur and controller. That’s it I have been running GX AXS with Shimano slx cassette and chain for 2 years no problems.

 

I see,
noted

What's your prefer method for tuning?
I've watched a youtube video that to use the old red colour b tension tool with the chain at largest cog.
But not sure is it necessary to put the bike at sag point, since I don't do that in Shimano.

I'm not very good with sram tuning as I've used Shimano for quite sometime.

 

I see,
noted

What's your prefer method for tuning?
I've watched a youtube video that to use the old red colour b tension tool with the chain at largest cog.
But not sure is it necessary to put the bike at sag point, since I don't do that in Shimano.

I'm not very good with sram tuning as I've used Shimano for quite sometime.

You can use the white tool that come with it. I took all the air out of the shock and used a ratchet srap to sag the bike on the stand so I could adjusted it. I have also just shifted up to the second to last cog on the cassette. Then set the B screw so that the top pulley is a mm or so from the tooth in the biggest cog. Both seem to work fine for me.

 

I have an ebike with two wheelsets.
A few months ago I bought a GX AXS der, shifter & cassette, swapped the driver on one of the wheels to XD.
All good. Shifts great.
Then I thought, "What about my other wheel, the one with the Shimano XT cassette?"
So I put that wheel in the bike and rode it to find out if it would still work.
Bottom line: it works perfectly.
Now I wish I hadn't spent the money on the new driver and SRAM cassette.
Didn't need to.
=sParty

 

Thanks for sharing,
I just ordered the AXS GX and then I found out about the worn pivot issue. Hopefully mine would be ok.

 

OK, I've been through this. You can use the white gauge that came with the GX AXS, but because the cassette that I used (Sunrace 11-51T to fit Shimano HG freehub) has 45-51T for the two easiest gears, the white gauge doesn't fit on. The eagle cassette is 42-52T for the easiest gears. The gauge interferes with the 45T cog. You have two options:

1. Take a Dremel or similar and trim the white plastic gauge so that it doesn't interfere with the 45T cog and use as per SRAM instructions.
2. Use a ruler to measure the b-tension gap when the derailleur in the biggest rear cog. You want 15mm gap between the upper 12T pulley and the biggest rear cog. It's the gap between the highest points of the teeth on the cogs. It's much easier to measure from the rear cog to the centre of the 12T pulley. The 12T pulley has a diameter of 50mm, so the measurement to the centre of the pulley is the radius of the pulley plus the b-tension gap; 25mm + 15mm = 40mm. Using the white gauge achieved the exact same result as this.

Note, you need to do this with sag. I used a ratchet strap to compress the shock. I also measured the b-tension gap after setting up so in the future I can measure without sag, for my bike this is 38.5mm.

Hard to explain here, but let me know if you need some photos. I've been riding for 2 months on this setup now and it works perfectly - I've done two races to it's had a decent amount of hard use.

A couple more points to note:
1. Derailleur hanger alignment is VERY important. I had a lot of trouble at the beginning with indexing and this was 100% the reason. Totally fixed with a new and properly aligned hanger. Make sure you check this.
2. Setup the micro adjust without the chain on. Do this in 6th gear. I've heard (not sure if true) that the Shimano and SRAM have very slightly different spacing, and setting up the micro adjust in the middle gear "splits the difference" and gets the best performance over all the gears. It's really easy to get the micro adjust perfect without the chain on. Push the derailleur up so the jokey wheel is very close to the 6th cog and it's easy to see. Pro-tip, you can do micro adjust on the app making it way easier.

 

Hi,

The b gap method you mentioned didn't work for me. Mine need more than 40mm so that at the smallest cog the chain is not loose. Roughly 45mm or above is the minimum to prevent chain slack.

Do you cut your chain again or just leave it as it is with Shimano guideline?

 

There is no “tuning” necessary. Install the derailleur and controller, set the limit screws and b-tension, and use the micro-adjust on the app or controller such that the derailleur shifts buttery smooth. That’s all.

 

thanks guys.

Bit strange where the sag point is required, if a different weight person sat on my bike, would that make the shifting off?
What if I want to change my sag point, does that required to change the b tension?
Sag point have to be precise or just a gauge?

I've read that the micro adjust on the controller affects the whole range of shifting where as for the app, it can do micro adjust on each shift individually, is that true?

pardon me with so much questioning, since there's no proper manual around

 

I've read that the micro adjust on the controller affects the whole range of shifting where as for the app, it can do micro adjust on each shift individually, is that true?

I don't believe this to be true. I could be wrong, but pretty sure it does the same as the controller. There is nothing in the app to imply that you are only adjusting one gear. If you change gear the app updates the gear, but the mircoshift setting stays the same no matter what gear you are in.

SRAM recommends b-tension with sag, so I did that. It made 1.5mm difference to the b-tension setting, so very little difference

 

Following this one for your results. I had read swapping the lower pully wheel helps so that it doesn't snag the narrower links on the Shimano chain.

 

pretty sure the gap is supposed to be 3mm between the cassette and pulley when you adjust the B tension, with a shimano cassette the sram tool doesn't work well, I just put a 3mm allen key in the gap and adjusted until it was touching...

 

Will update once I have everything setup, will also take the chance to experiment with shimano pulley wheels.

 

It would be insane to offer adjustment between individual gear spacing inasmuch as cog spacing is consistent throughout the cassette.
If individual gear spacing was real, one could really mess things up in a hurry, possibly with no way to get back to default.
=sParty

 

I must have got lucky. AXS with an XTR cassette and just kinda eyeballed it. Another set of wheels has a shimano cassette as well and I have to micro adjust it down 2. Just guessing due to production tolerances. Otherwise, I haven't touched the B-Gap in over a year.

 

Side Note I found on my Shimano 10-45 B adjustment was not perfect following the Shimano guide (marking on my XTR der) I set it much closer to the 45 tooth cog so fine tuning break the rules is best. Isn't breaking rules almost always best?

 

I was thinking about going with 45T Shimano cassette? Any issues?

 

I've just got my axs installed and tune the b gap with the white and red tool.
Something doesn't seems right as the chain is pretty slack after that.

My chain is cut according to Shimano guideline, for now I just high the b gap until there's no more slack.
Shifts ok but definitely can be better I believe.

 

This is an interesting thread.
When I saw Shimano coming with the new XT Di2 system, I was like whoa!, gotta get this - and then realized it was for effing e-bikes only.
When SRAM came up with the AXS recently, I briefly got an upgrade itch, but then I looked at the prices, and figured "you're not that retarded (just yet)".
This, if it really works, could be an acceptable solution. Still extremely expensive, but doable.