My first fatbike was a Borealis Echo built as light as possible, carbon hoops and tubeless. It came in at 24.5 pounds. I’ve since decided that more weight and more versatile ride was better so I went to a FS Mutz. Added 5 lbs but worth it.

 

Yes, less than 26lbs.
8.5lbs less
Production version of the bike here:
https://fat-bike.com/2016/06/diamant-f1-ltd-review-by-euan-pennington/

My 17.5lb proto is on 100mm rims while the production bike had 80s.

 

I've got a medium Yampa.

19.5 lbs with Juggernaut Pro 4.0s but I hate how they ride. 20.5 lbs with JJ 4.0, good for summer and 21.5 lbs with studded D4s good for snow. All using HED 85mm rims and mostly carbon everywher it makes sense.

 

Yes. Large Yampa with Bontrager 4.7 Barbagazzi's. It was down under 23lbs but I've poached some parts. It's still under 26lbs.

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My Otso Voytek is around 25lbs with XT drivetrain, Next cranks.
Could go lighter with Sram 10s and carbon rims.

 

There's loads of em but the mortgage required to acquire em is what keeps some of us from pulling the trigger.

 

My last couple fat bikes where under 26 but my latest one is much heavier. That being said I enjoy my new 31 pound fatty much more.

 

My Specialized Fatboy Comp Carbon was a hair less than 26 lbs after I took the tubes out of the tires and went tubeless.

 

Cs-197 with a bluto, fat b 4.0, and 1070 cassette is just under 26lb before I add tire sealant. As many carbon bits as possible btw

 

if you get a factory direct frame and rims you can easily be under 26lbs for $2k. a lot of the weight is in tubes and tires. also some bars and seat posts are real tanks when you would not think so.

 

I was doing the math on mine the other day, the CS-197 frame was around $350 and the total bike cost is near $3-3.5K, which for the weight is excellent. This includes building my own rims though and so on.

 

Of course. 22.something and it's not the lightest you'll see by far.

Builds are the same as any other weight weenie build, carbon frames, bars, posts, light brakes with lightweight rotors (work great in the winter), next cranks, sram 1x11 or 12 setups (lighter than equivalent shimano by a good deal), light pedals, etc.

The key is usually the wheels, that's where you get the most bang for the buck and can get something way lighter than a stock bike. Many fatbike rims are 800-1000g or so, tubes of this size are at least a pound often times, rim strips and lower end tires can create a massive amount of rotating mass. Good carbon rims like Light Bicycles, Nextie, HED and others can save decent weight, weighing in at 400-550g for the lighter models, and most carbon rims tend to be far more "tubeless compatible" than most of the aluminum rims, so that helps. Then you can use some lightweight spokes (don't really need thick ones with ultra-stiff carbon rims and their wide angles) and a good hub like DT or Hope.

 

My Growler is about 24# in rigid mode tubeless and 4" tires. Current setup is a bit heavier with the Bud/Lou and frame bag.

 

xl borealis crestone just over 22 lbs, it is the most fun bike i own and i have a few. Also have a yampa built for winter with bud and lou that is probably a little less than 26 lbs but i haven't weighed it since i put the 105 carbon hoops on it.

 

I have a large Crestone that is right at 25lbs with HED alloys and 4.4 JJs tubeless. XX1 11 speed, 100% stock except for Garmin mount & bottle cage.

 

I'm fairly sure that the front half of my bike weighs less than 26 pounds.

 

My Voytek weighed 23 lbs. 4 oz. when I put in on my bike shops scale after they installed my Lauf fork. That was with the 27.5 wheelset on it, but the fat wheelset is only about a pound heavier each, so that would still keep it below 26.

 

One of my fatty's weighs 35 lbs and the other weighs 36 lbs... guess i am not cool enough...

 

You have to be cool to have a lightweight fat bike that is actually fun to ride? I better sell mine asap.

 

I have a Lamere. In the summer I useJaugernaut Pro 4.0-bike weighs in at 19.5