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You can probably bend one of those open with a foot long steel bar in like 3 seconds (at the rivets).

I have a pragmasis 11mm chain (boron steel), and a squire 50 closed shackle lock also made out of boron steel. Also bought from pragmasis. These are serious locks. Much better than anything kryptonite or abus makes. They also sell kits chain/padlock at very good prices at pragmasis.

I shortened my chain a bit with a 1m bolt cutter, well I tried at least. didn't work out too well to be honest. Had to resort to an angle grider and mounting the chain in a vise.

Most u locks can be bent open and pumped open with a small hydraulic jack, all armored cable locks (snakelocks) can be leveraged to reveal the cable inside and snip it. Most if not all abus and kryptonite chains are through hardened and usually square profile and those are brittle crap. Also their locks for these chains are not as good a squire for example, far from it.

buy once cry once.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I'm mostly trying to find the balance between carrying some crazy like a thick chain and reasonable deterrent.

I'm looking for something more for trips to the store in a low/moderate crime area, not locking up all day in NYC. I was considering something like 2 folding locks and a chat with my insurance agent about coverage in case something does happen.
 
I'm mostly trying to find the balance between carrying some crazy like a thick chain and reasonable deterrent.

I'm looking for something more for trips to the store in a low/moderate crime area, not locking up all day in NYC. I was considering something like 2 folding locks and a chat with my insurance agent about coverage in case something does happen.
the time your bike will get stolen is when "you were just going to the store".

Either you get a real lock or you get some crap. Pretty much everything except a (good) chain and (good) padlock is crap. its for show only. People that steal bikes know this and attack these locks appropriately. they are pros.

The only deterrent lockwise is a sufficiently thick chain (not through hardened) and a good padlock (should be closed shackle).

A squire cs50 and half a meter or so of 11mm pragmasis chain is like 1,5 kilos. Thats the lightest you will ever get and still have good security. Just so you know. Only good chains are pragmasis and almax. Padlocks can be found all over that are good but i have a feeling the squire closed shacke ones the absolute best ones.

Locking up a bike with this signals: "just forget it".
 
I'm mostly trying to find the balance between carrying some crazy like a thick chain and reasonable deterrent.

I'm looking for something more for trips to the store in a low/moderate crime area, not locking up all day in NYC. I was considering something like 2 folding locks and a chat with my insurance agent about coverage in case something does happen.
I use an OnGuard U-lock and a Kryptonite combo cable, with the U-lock being the primary attachment to the rack, but the cable also secures the frame, rear wheel, AND front wheel to the rack. So a thief trying to steal my bike would have to cut two locks. Not difficult per se, but it adds steps that thieves would rather avoid. I only lock my bike for short periods of time outside. Otherwise, it comes indoors with me, so it's never left outside for long periods of time.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Looks like the folding lock was cut at the pin/rivet, guess that's probably too obvious of a weak point.

I've also considered the TiGr lock which seems like it would fair well against a bolt cutter attack.

U-lock and cable combo is still on my radar. I know a professional bike thief can defeat most of these things, but I think I mostly need to keep honest people honest. Outside of that, I think I'd rather have an insurance policy than carry a military grade chain and padlock.
 
Looks like the folding lock was cut at the pin/rivet, guess that's probably too obvious of a weak point.

I've also considered the TiGr lock which seems like it would fair well against a bolt cutter attack.

U-lock and cable combo is still on my radar. I know a professional bike thief can defeat most of these things, but I think I mostly need to keep honest people honest. Outside of that, I think I'd rather have an insurance policy than carry a military grade chain and padlock.
Well the tigr lock is made out of titanium, either 3al2,5v or 6al4v or if they actually tried to make a good lock some beta alloy (which i'm 99,9% certain it isnt), and both 3al2,5v and6al4v is easiest cut with an actual hacksaw with carbide/bimetal blade. I guess I could go through that lock in about 5 seconds. I used to make hobby stuff out of 6al4v and its usually quite hard to saw and machine with machines, but with a hacksaw! no challenge. You just need to put high pressure on it when sawing it, then its like butter. Almost.

Its your bike man, get whatever you want. but insurance is always a worse deal than still having your bike.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I get what you're saying and appreciate the input. I guess I just feel like if it's a professional bike thief, they are probably getting my bike no matter what. Whether it's bolt cutters, hack saw, angle grinder, etc. At some point they could cut the aluminum frame and take the rest for parts.

I'm mostly looking to stop the random guy looking for an easy grab, which I suspect makes up most of the crime where I am.
 
I really like that Ti lock. I am sick of my heavy ulock. With my fat bike I have to carry a cable and padlock in addition I am in a risky place.
 
Well the tigr lock is made out of titanium, either 3al2,5v or 6al4v or if they actually tried to make a good lock some beta alloy (which i'm 99,9% certain it isnt), and both 3al2,5v and6al4v is easiest cut with an actual hacksaw with carbide/bimetal blade. I guess I could go through that lock in about 5 seconds. I used to make hobby stuff out of 6al4v and its usually quite hard to saw and machine with machines, but with a hacksaw! no challenge. You just need to put high pressure on it when sawing it, then its like butter. Almost.

Its your bike man, get whatever you want. but insurance is always a worse deal than still having your bike.
If you think any piece of hardware is going to do anything substantial against a professional bike thief, you're delusional. I talked to a guy whose hitch rack was cut off the vehicle even though the bikes were NOT locked down...simply because it was faster to use a battery-powered reciprocating saw and have 2 guys lift the whole thing into a van than it was to unfasten the straps holding the bikes down. Those guys probably had a full kit of tools in that van to get any bike they wanted. That kind of crap is what insurance is for. Thankfully, those kinds of attacks are relatively uncommon.

I want to prevent thefts from the random meth head looking for a fix who doesn't plan beyond now. I want to protect against the random low level scum who might only carry a single easily concealed tool to chop cheap locks.

I get what you're saying and appreciate the input. I guess I just feel like if it's a professional bike thief, they are probably getting my bike no matter what. Whether it's bolt cutters, hack saw, angle grinder, etc. At some point they could cut the aluminum frame and take the rest for parts.

I'm mostly looking to stop the random guy looking for an easy grab, which I suspect makes up most of the crime where I am.
And that's the correct way to think about it. If the thief has the right tools, they'll just cut the rack, tree, light pole, fence, or whatever else you lock to and deal with your overbuilt lock later.
 
I have an Abus 6500 folding lock because I couldn't get a U lock to fit around the thick carbon tubes of my new stupid fat bike. I've only used it a half dozen times or so and haven't gotten the hang of locking it quickly yet. It weighs at LEAST twice as much as my U locks, but fits in my frame bag so I just leave it there.

My new school is in a non-bikey suburb and there's ONE crappy rack to lock up bikes to. It's a thin weak steel (or maybe even aluminum) that's definitely weaker than any of my locks.

I may sell my locks and get a LITELOK® | Lightweight Bike Lock | Light Bike Lock | LiteLok when it's available. Looks kind of annoying to haul, but I ride with a backpack so I'll manage.
 
I just rewatched their video of cutting attempts. They didn't try very hard. Also, why is it 29" instead of like 32? It could have been hauled around my waist.
 
delusional.
The point I'm making is that you can defeat all locks except a chain without power tools in seconds. With a good chain and padlock you need to use power tools or its not happening. And thats a good reason imo.
 
I think you're delusional for holding that chain you use on such a high pedestal. You can defeat ALL LOCKS if you have the right tools. There are battery powered power tools that are more compact than a big set of bolt cutters. It doesn't matter. I know of some occasions of people being knocked off their bike, with the entire objective to steal their bike and rob them. A lock isn't really useful here.

Locks are such a small part of the equation that it's silly to invest so much effort into finding the "perfect" one. More important are how those locks are attached to the bike, where the bike is locked up, when it's locked up, how long it's locked up, and so on. Those things all use my brain. I don't need to buy anything. But I do need to be smart. I do need to be observant. And I do need to learn. If all I'm doing is relying on something I've purchased, I have set myself up to be disappointed.
 
If someone wants something of yours badly enough, they're going to get it.

I do what I can reasonably do to make thieves pick a different target. Where I lock up, the locks that I use and what I lock to are all part of that equation.
 
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