There's another thread kicking around on Pro Bike torque wrenches somewhere. tl;dr they break and the company doesn't respond to warranty inquiries. Company may or may not actually be in business still.

 

Pro Bike Tool website is very nice, well organized, and intuitive. Looks like the company is alive and kicking

Robot or human?

 

I have heard of people having issues with them, but I own it and have been very happy.

 

I own one,I have never to mail them for warranty or other request,but the wrench work very well, and I got nothing to complaint about.

 

Tekton wrenches have a lifetime warranty. I'm not saying they are a better quality just that if it does fail they will send a replacement no questions asked, just need to send them a pic of said wrench. I've made use of it. Had a new tool in days and never had to talk to anybody.

Warranty, Replacements, Tool Help | TEKTON Hand Tools

Once a tool becomes yours, we're available to help you no matter where you got it or how long ago. Our guarantee has no time limits and no fine print—just personalized solutions. Shipment of replacement parts is always on us.

www.tekton.com

 

I thought that wrench was great until it wasn't. I used it religiously for about a year and a half until it over torqued the rear axel on my Stumpjumper requiring it to be drilled out.

 

Ammmm.... thanks guys!
I was looking at ParkTool and Topeak torque wrenches, but both are VERY expensive so I googled and ran into the review above.
No rush, so I think I might reconsider the Topeak and try to find a nice price.

 

I have both, the Topeak I like better and it comes with a calibration certificate. The size is also small enough that it doesn't obscure the feel either, making it harder to overtorque things.

Both are cheaper than whatever you will have to replace because you broke it by overtorquing it.

 

Tekton have a comparable wrench and they're pretty good about customer care.

1/4 Inch Drive Dual-Direction Micrometer Torque Wrench | TEKTON | TRQ21101

1/4 Inch Drive Dual-Direction Micrometer Torque Wrench: 10-150 in.-lb. (1.1-16.9 Nm). Designed for use on bicycles. High-contrast scale and zipper case.

www.tekton.com

 

The best one I've used for low-medium torque is Venzo branded one. I forget who recommended it but I have a Park Tool one that I never use because I find this one easier and more accurate. For higher torque values I do use a Park Tool TW 6.2 but I like the Venzo more.

 

I have to say that I looked at the Topeak one based on this thread and it looks like it is excellent. As happy as I am with the Venmo I may order one.

 

I know Topeak and use their products for a few years now. It's always high quality-no issues stuff.
Torq stick pro sets have lots of features that make them very expensive, but the Torq stick 4-20 Nm is more affordable and has everything I need. Will wait for a sale/little price drop and get it.
Thanks again for all your replies and advice!

 

that little wrench in post 1 is a generic rebranded 'good enuf' wrench. you can find the
same kit under various names. it's pretty good for cheap...consistent, just be sure to unload
it after every use (set to zero)

never loosen bolts with it either, only tighten. use another wrench
to do any and all loosening.

 

Right you are. I have the same one that’s branded with a Chenglish mishmash of vowels and consonants. It’s decent for what it is and seems to be reasonably accurate. Thanks for the tip to always zero it out after use.

 

I have one and it’s been good

 

Until now I was using a regular wrench or my bike multitool and it was OK, but after paying so much for this bike I want to buy a torque wrench

I was looking at ParkTool and Topeak torque wrenches, but both are VERY expensive so I googled and ran into the review above.
No rush, so I think I might reconsider the Topeak and try to find a nice price.

I know Topeak and use their products for a few years now. It's always high quality-no issues stuff.

Uh, say what?

 

No. But thanks for asking.

 

I'm sure no bike tool supplier makes torque wrenches. They do however charge a premium for a rebadged product.
-Ya I know it's possible they are made 'for' Park or Topeak, probably in the same factory that makes Tekton and Ray Ban sunglasses.

 

Got my SB v2 a few months ago, carbon frame, and bar.

Until now I was using a regular wrench or my bike multitool and it was OK, but after paying so much for this bike I want to buy a torque wrench in order to tight bearings, bolts, etc at the right torque and prevent over-tightening that can damage the carbon frame and components.

I've got 2 torque wenches—a 2-20nm wrench that I got first, and then a 10-60nm wrench. In both cases I went with a nice one because buy once, cry once. By quantity, most bolts on your bike will fall in the lower range. Seatpost clamps, stem bolts, cockpit controls, etc are all going to be less than 20nm. However, in practice, I use the higher value wrench far more.

The reason for this difference is in the respective wrenches' use cases. The lower torque one is largely for stuff that I set once and don't really need to touch again. I dial in my handlebar roll and torque a bar down once, and don't think about it again. I set the seatpost height once, only need to adjust it again if I need to change the dropper cable. I'll maybe use a tq wrench to mount a derailleur—or maybe not—but that's just a one time thing. Saddle rail clamps always have an advised torque value, but I feel totally fine going by feel there, and besides, access to those bolts with the head of a torque wrench is often less than optimal. Brakes and shifters and dropper levers, I undertorque them. I just want them barely tight enough to stay in place during regualr riding, but loose enough that they'll spin in a crash, rather than break.

The higher torque value wrench gets used when replacing wear items such as cassettes and BBs (~40nm usually). It gets used when I open up a fork to do a lowers service or add or remove volume spacers (I think the airspring topcap on a fox fork is 28nm). If I'm replacing my suspension bearings, or switching back and forth between a coil and air shock, those linkage bolts and shock mounting bolts tend to have pretty high tq. I just looked at the spec sheet for your Switchblade, and I see that it's got some 35nm bolts in the linkage.

All of which is to say—think hard about your use case, especially if you're on a budget. Getting a couple of the preset torque wrenches for your lower tq value needs, and investing in a nice wrench that goes up to higher values may be the way to go.

 

So….my anecdotal data….I went to the mechanical engineering shop at work today and I chatted with the machinist to get his advise on calibration… I brought in my Pro Bike Tool 1/4in ratchet torque wrench (same model that the OP used in this recent post ) just to do a comparison with one of the shop tools. I didn’t know he had a bench-top Torque Analyzer (Mountz TorqueLabs LTT), so we tested my torque wrench and when set at 9Nm (where I had an issue recently) it was reading anywhere from the lowest 10.5Nm to 15+ Nm after multiple tries ( up to a 67% difference). We tried 15Nm setting too and the difference was slightly less but still off. I have used my torque wrench for about 2 years and no issues, but now it is off. I feel it not worth recalibration.

 

double post deleted

 

Amazon has the Tekton for $43.65 right now. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-TRQ21...1M12284X?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

That Tekton has the exact part geometry (collar, handle knurling, head) as the Pro Bike Tool that the OP asked about, but the Tekton has both Nm and Ft-lbs scales. Note the new ProBikeTool now is a new model with black shaft and white text.

FWIW, I just ordered s WERA Click-Torque A5 wrench, 2.5-25 Nm to replace my ProBikeTool. it is 50% off, so... $148US.

 

If you’re going to use it a lot I would avoid one that’s made in China. That being said you will pay more for a quality unit. You can look on eBay or elsewhere to buy a used one, if it’s a Snap on or similar it can be sent out to get calibrated. Not sure where the Park ones are made but if they are inexpensive then they probably just get them from China.

 

I've been using this little CDI (company that makes Snap-On torque wrenches) for lower torque value bolts.

 

Can you post a link to this one?

 

Google?

 

If any of your fasteners are reverse threaded (like Trek Mino Link), then be sure to get a wrench that measures torque in both directions (like Park Tools).

Edit: As @Cleared2land points out below, some (though not all) Treks with the newer style link employ a standard thread bolt inserted and torqued from the back, which obviously is not an example of what I'm talking about (since in that case, any wrench that fits should work).

 

If any of your fasteners are reverse threaded (like Trek Mino Link), then be sure to get a wrench that measures torque in both directions (like Park Tools).

You need to think about what you just stated.

Edit: At least if you have a newer one. I'm thinking of the later models that use the Mino Link nut like you have shown. These use a conventional direction Mino Link bolt don't they?

 

I too will suggest a torque wrench from an actual tool manufacturer, not a rebranded China. Also ,the tool better have been factory calibrated, with a dedicated data sheet, regarding click style mechanical torque wrenches. My vote would go to the original click type torque wrench manufacturer, Norbar .

I currently have in my hands a TTi 20 and the quality is excellent .The safety lockout is a bit needless imo and not so elegant in operation , but not a problem generally. Keep in mind ,that the 2-20Nm scale is obsolete now , and most manufacturers will not offer that much range, because it hurts the accuracy .The most common is 4-20 or maybe 5-25. For less torque than that I would use a simple cheap deflecting beam style torque wrench , as these are pretty accurate, from topeak maybe.Other notable mentions for click type wrenches would be facom ,wera, which I believe is a rebranded norbar as well, gedore dremometer if you want to get too fancy.
Park tools won't hold a candle on them.I believe gearwrench are good as well.

Some points of significance when using a click type mechanical torque wrench though. The operator must achieve final torque in a slow continuous movement, and the wrench must click once , not twice or more. Also , there is a possibility the swing stops due to space constraints for example, exactly before the wrench clicks. Then ,the operator keeps tightening and no click happens and voila ruined fasteners, so use common sense , if you believe something is wrong,stop .Also when storing the click type wrench, unwind it to the lowest setting, but never on zero! Doing that may disturb the mechanism and calibration

 

I too will suggest a torque wrench from an actual tool manufacturer, not a rebranded China. Also ,the tool better have been factory calibrated, with a dedicated data sheet, regarding click style mechanical torque wrenches. My vote would go to the original click type torque wrench manufacturer, Norbar .

I currently have in my hands a TTi 20 and the quality is excellent .The safety lockout is a bit needless imo and not so elegant in operation , but not a problem generally. Keep in mind ,that the 2-20Nm scale is obsolete now , and most manufacturers will not offer that much range, because it hurts the accuracy .The most common is 4-20 or maybe 5-25. For less torque than that I would use a simple cheap deflecting beam style torque wrench , as these are pretty accurate, from topeak maybe.Other notable mentions for click type wrenches would be facom ,wera, which I believe is a rebranded norbar as well, gedore dremometer if you want to get too fancy.
Park tools won't hold a candle on them.I believe gearwrench are good as well.

Some points of significance when using a click type mechanical torque wrench though. The operator must achieve final torque in a slow continuous movement, and the wrench must click once , not twice or more. Also , there is a possibility the swing stops due to space constraints for example, exactly before the wrench clicks. Then ,the operator keeps tightening and no click happens and voila ruined fasteners, so use common sense , if you believe something is wrong,stop .Also when storing the click type wrench, unwind it to the lowest setting, but never on zero! Doing that may disturb the mechanism and calibration

View attachment 2047124

That is the wrench I use for 90% of my jobs and agree the quality is excellent.

For larger jobs I have a 3/8" wrench from Warren & Brown which goes from 20-90Nm. Also click style.

The tip about deflection beam wrenches for low torque is also good. I have a very simple one that measures as low as 2nm and this is normally used for such things a brake and gear shifter clamps.

 

I have the Pro Bike Tool torque wrench. I thought there was an issue with it, tried to get support and it took weeks to finally hear back from them. Shortly after, it broke for good. Ended up getting this one, which works well.
Amazon.com: LEXIVON Bike Torque Wrench 1/4-Inch Dr. 15-Piece Kit | 72-Tooth Gear, Dual-Direction Click Type 2~26 Nm (17.7~230.1 in-lb) | Portable Maintenance Kit for Road & Mountain Bikes (LX-191) : Sports & Outdoors