[zizajaun]

Does waxing hold up in wet weather?

This is what my bike looks like 9 months of the year.
View attachment 2136589

I rotate 5 chains. After a muddy ride like that, I replace the chain - even if there is enough wax left on the rollers, the rest of the chain is covered in grit, so will wear the drivetrain. If it's merely a bit wet (but clean), I might leave it on, or top up with a drip wax. Since using the Silca Endurance Chip, the wax does indeed seem to last longer, though it's been unusually dry here in Wales so I'm not sure how much difference it makes in typical UK conditions.

Of course, you shouldn't be using a dirty chain with typical lube on it either, unless you don't care how fast you burn though components. So if it gets muddy, you should be removing the chain to clean it, in which case you might as well use wax (with all its other benefits) rather than some horrible drip lube. See ZFC for more details.

 

[ocnLogan]

I rotate 5 chains. After a muddy ride like that, I replace the chain - even if there is enough wax left on the rollers, the rest of the chain is covered in grit, so will wear the drivetrain. If it's merely a bit wet (but clean), I might leave it on, or top up with a drip wax. Since using the Silca Endurance Chip, the wax does indeed seem to last longer, though it's been unusually dry here in Wales so I'm not sure how much difference it makes in typical UK conditions.

Of course, you shouldn't be using a dirty chain with typical lube on it either, unless you don't care how fast you burn though components. So if it gets muddy, you should be removing the chain to clean it, in which case you might as well use wax (with all its other benefits) rather than some horrible drip lube. See ZFC for more details.

Got it, thanks for the info.

The slight problem, is that this just isn't a one off sort of thing around here. Its just... how it is from about October, until about June. I see you're in Wales. Do you actually replace the chain with a different one, and then clean/re-lube after each ride?

Totally possible, but that does seem like work I'd have to adjust to. Plus 5x chains at once is a bit of a purchase .

 

[Suns_PSD]

I also wax my chains, but with no schedule. As a kid this old man down the street taught me that when the rollers are shiny they really start to wear, and that's when they need to be lubed. I'd say I get from 4-7 rides between waxing's.

 

[zizajaun]

Got it, thanks for the info.

The slight problem, is that this just isn't a one off sort of thing around here. Its just... how it is from about October, until about June. I see you're in Wales. Do you actually replace the chain with a different one, and then clean/re-lube after each ride?

Totally possible, but that does seem like work I'd have to adjust to. Plus 5x chains at once is a bit of a purchase .

I begin by stripping and waxing about 5 chains, and put one on my bike. In dry conditions, I can get several rides on that chain before it needs either a top up of drip wax or removal from the bike. In muddy conditions, I might only get one ride on it before I remove it, rinse it with boiling water, dry it, wrap it in a cloth, and store it somewhere. When all 5 chains have been used, I rewax them in one session. See ZFC for details.

 

[Suns_PSD]

One trick with waxed chains is that before I remove them to rewax I full on spray them with water until the water runs clean. Then they are ready to just drop right in to the wax.

 

[zizajaun]

One trick with waxed chains is that before I remove them to rewax I full on spray them with water until the water runs clean. Then they are ready to just drop right in to the wax.

Do you dry them before rewaxing?

The hardest part about the wax system with multiple chains is preventing them rusting between waxes.

 

[Suns_PSD]

Do you dry them before rewaxing?

The hardest part about the wax system with multiple chains is preventing them rusting between waxes.

I usually grab the nearest shop rag and wipe them off. But it's very hot here and the boiling in wax gets rid of moisture anyways so I don't put much effort into it.

I've never had rust at all. Of course, it's very dry here and I only wash my bikes the day of the waxing.

 

[Blownoutrides]

Today’s insta post from Forbidden after a few adjustment layers in pshop. Kudos to their marketing guys for the clever photoshop nerd proofing Easter egg lol

 

[ehfour]

Was the annocement suppose to be today?

 

[socalrider77]

It’s up on pinkbike

 

[ehfour]

Was the annocement suppose to be today?

Just laucnhed on PB

 

[digifun]

it’s on YT

 

[ehfour]

Welp with a pricing range of $15K to $11K- that puts me out of the running!

Im sure it will be an amazingbike to ride

 

[GatorXman]

Welp with a pricing range of $15K to $11K- that puts me out of the running!

Im sure it will be an amazingbike to ride

Is that CAD? Pricing is TBD on US site

 

[ehfour]

Yes cdn pricing

 

[ehfour]

 

[zizajaun]

I really wish more brands did frame-only options. I want to move over the good stuff off my hardtail but £7800 for the base model, plus more to upgrade the shock to Ultimate, is just daft when I won't be using most of the parts. I was looking at the Ari Timp Peak 2.0 as they do framesets, but just the frame would cost £6000 ($8,000 USD) after tax and import duties in the UK.

 

[Suns_PSD]

I really wish more brands did frame-only options. I want to move over the good stuff off my hardtail but £7800 for the base model, plus more to upgrade the shock to Ultimate, is just daft when I won't be using most of the parts. I was looking at the Ari Timp Peak 2.0 as they do framesets, but just the frame would cost £6000 ($8,000 USD) after tax and import duties in the UK.

Bike manufacturers pay less than $1500 for the rest of the bike outside of the frame.
That's why once they go frame only the savings is so low and then everyone complains about the frame only price as they hold their margins the same.

 

[Send-It]

I really wish more brands did frame-only options. I want to move over the good stuff off my hardtail but £7800 for the base model, plus more to upgrade the shock to Ultimate, is just daft when I won't be using most of the parts. I was looking at the Ari Timp Peak 2.0 as they do framesets, but just the frame would cost £6000 ($8,000 USD) after tax and import duties in the UK.

Propain does frame only for all bike but emtbs, maybe they'll change that some day AND get rid of headset routing. Otherwise I agree, more frame only options would be great. I don't even mind the lower offset costs to completes, I find it so wasteful for a box of parts I'll never use or take the time to sell.

 

[zizajaun]

Propain does frame only for all bike but emtbs, maybe they'll change that some day AND get rid of headset routing. Otherwise I agree, more frame only options would be great. I don't even mind the lower offset costs to completes, I find it so wasteful for a box of parts I'll never use or take the time to sell.

Yeah, there isn't much demand for no-name own-brand take-off parts, or even low-end branded stuff, and it's a faff selling lots of individual low-value bits.