They already dumped it in the archives.
https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-US/archive/bike/5010

 

I know the V3 is in the archive, but I cannot find the dimension list there. Can you?

 

Is my V3 supposed to have a grease fitting on the lower link? The tech docs show it but mine doesn't have it.

 

It's there, but obscured from view when completely assembled. If you remove the shock bolt from the upper link and rear pivot axle, you can then rotate the lower link up and towards the front, and then you can see the zerk fitting.

 

For those who have removed the 5mm spacer on the DPX2 to have 210x55 size: how different is bike with the longer shock? Pros&cons?

 

Would love to know as well.

Also, any new input from people running coil shocks?

 

Hello,
this is my dream build It's my do-it-all bike, so it's built to be more durable.

Details:

• 2019 5010 CC V3 with DPX2;
• Fox 36 GRIP2 150mm;
• XTR brakes with Tricstuff HD rotors;
• XTR groupset (except X01 Eagle cassette and chain);
• trail wheels: DT350/Nextie Carbon i30/X01 Eagle/DHF+Rekon;
• park wheels: Ibis 738 wheelset i35/GX Eagle/Assegai+Dissector;
• Race Face Next R 35 handlebars with Race Face Turbine R 40mm stem;
• BikeYoke Revive 160mm seatpost.

13.62 kg with trail wheels, 13.96 kg with park wheels.

This is the best bike I've ever had, but I'd like to move function of rear suspension a little further, so I have to decide which shock to choose: - DHX2 Coil 2021 or Float X2 2021? Any advice?

 

Hello..................

This is the best bike I've ever had, but I'd like to move function of rear suspension a little further, so I have to decide which shock to choose: - DHX2 Coil 2021 or Float X2 2021? Any advice?

I have the 5010 V.1 Cane Creek Helm Coil fork and the Cane Creek Inline coil. Can't beat coil.

 

DBILAir

I've been toying with a coil for while, but wasn't sure it was a right fit, I decided to try the DB Air IL, I wanted to have more adjustment range than the DPX2, for example I was always running rebound on full slow, maybe 1-2 turns fast, and I still felt it would get bucked in fast dh trails with bigger hits. So far with no air, the adjustment range from full closed to full open is huge. One trail ride in and it felt good, but I'm not making any conclusions until I can ride it in some fast terrain, and tune it. I'm not crazy about the non indexed, allen key required adjustments.

 

I've been toying with a coil for while, but wasn't sure it was a right fit, I decided to try the DB Air IL, I wanted to have more adjustment range than the DPX2, for example I was always running rebound on full slow, maybe 1-2 turns fast, and I still felt it would get bucked in fast dh trails with bigger hits. So far with no air, the adjustment range from full closed to full open is huge. One trail ride in and it felt good, but I'm not making any conclusions until I can ride it in some fast terrain, and tune it. I'm not crazy about the non indexed, allen key required adjustments.
View attachment 1344255

I'm running this shock on a different bike, but what I have found will work on all different brand bikes and suspension designs. It did take a lot of trial and error though so you gotta put the time in.

First thing is download the CC app and put your bikes specifications in it. I had to do this manually because my bike was not in there. Once you load your info in you will have a baseline. Then you can use the app to fine tune your settings.

The app will ask you questions about how each setting feels, what it's doing not doing and will tell you how to adjust. It sounds really rudimentary but it really works.

I have found that this shock to be the most significant upgrade I have done. You can tune your bike to exactly how you want it.

A friend of mine bought it for his bike and said the bike felt dead. I asked him if he was using the app and he said no my bikes not in there. I showed him how to manually add and told him to use the app to fine tune. He had the same results......completely transformed the bike.

I don't think I will ever settle for a shock that does not have 4 way adjustability, it really makes a difference. Obviously there are only a few choices, and most don't want to put the time in to set it up correctly.

I do agree on the non indexed Allen key adjustments....but one it's tuned no worries

 

Rear shock frame bolts?

I want to adjust the volume spacers in my rear DPX2 shock.

None of my hex wrenches seem to fit the bolt. They only slightly go in a fraction of a mm. The front bolt is worse than the rear. The rear one I can probably get enough insertion to remove it. I do not think I can get any leverage on the front shock bolt without stripping the bolt. Are these really 6mm bolts? The other frame bolts around the suspension all seem to fit my various hex wrenches just fine.

What's up with the shock bolts?

 

I want to adjust the volume spacers in my rear DPX2 shock.

None of my hex wrenches seem to fit the bolt. They only slightly go in a fraction of a mm. The front bolt is worse than the rear. The rear one I can probably get enough insertion to remove it. I do not think I can get any leverage on the front shock bolt without stripping the bolt. Are these really 6mm bolts? The other frame bolts around the suspension all seem to fit my various hex wrenches just fine.

What's up with the shock bolts?

They are normal in my experience with several tools and allen head sockets. You can change the spacer with the shock on the bike, but I think you need to sort out this issue regardless, I remove my bolts all the time to swap the flip chip.

 

Yea, what bbqmike said! Should be 6mm possibly with threadlocker on 'em. I think that the aircan is easier to remove while on the bike, then it's a simple spacer change.

 

Does anyone have experience running the Fox Float X2 on the V3 frame? How does it compare to the DPX2?

 

Hopefully I’ll get the Float X2 2021 this week, so when it will be on bike, I will write the report ;0)

 

Hopefully I'll get the Float X2 2021 this week, so when it will be on bike, I will write the report ;0)

Anything to report?

 

Hello, sorry for late answer.:bluefrown:

The shock is there and it's a MONSTER!
Honestly I didn't believe that it can be so big change in behaviour of rear suspension.
Maybe I'm affected by the terrible experience with the RS Deluxe RL that I borrowed instead of DPX2, but from what I remember, the DPX2 had limits in areas with a lot of large roots.
Somebody wrote here about DHX2 and how easily the bike keeps momentum with that shock if there is some curb or big root. The same, from my point of view, is true for X2.
The sensitivity is now much better, the smaller roots and stones cannot be felt at all now. The bike has more traction, I feel more confident.

The settings:

• I have 210x50mm version. I did not want to use larger stroke. With 150mm at the front and 130mm at the rear, the bike is beautifully balanced.
• There seems to be one spacer in the air chamber (I didn't look inside, but I got only 3 extra spacers with the shock). Progressivity is OK, I normally use 90% of the stroke, in the bike park I used 96%. SAG is 30%.
• Setting up compressions and expansions was easier than I expected. I started with the expansions at the recommended values for the set pressure, then only fine-tuned to be more fast. Compressions - HSC almost open, LSC somewhere in the middle. Bike is still responsive and playful with a lot of support in the middle of travel.
• Interesting is the climb switch - I still don't fully understand how it is possible that suspension is still sensitive even in firm mode. Amazing.

 

I will second this! The 5010 v3 with a 2021 X2 is a match made in heaven. Unreal how good this X2 is.

 

[SUB]

​

[/SUB] Thanks for the info! I'm trying to get a smoother ride in the chunk and at least maintain the bottom out resistance of my current set up. Currently settled on 260psi with the .6 spacer on the dpx2 at 190lbs. (Tried the .8 but it gets pretty spiky in the last 3rd). Getting full travel if I overshoot on some of the bigger drops in the area (10'-15'+) Normal trail rides Im probably getting 95% most of the time unless I try something silly. I can get 90% of the stroke just pushing into the suspension in the parking lot so I don't think it's a bad setup for me. But if it gets chunky at speed the bike does get bogged down and can feel pretty harsh; Which is to be expected on snappy 130mm trail bike of course. For me the rear doesn't quite keep up with the 140mm luftkappe'd 36 up front or the bikes geo. Obviously it destroys the flow trails and jumps of course but being my only fully at the moment id like it to be a bit more rounded. Reading through this forum I've caught the optimizer bug and your response, as well as the general discussion has me convinced that a 210x55mm x2 is the ticket though. Maybe get some travel spacers to tinker if it somehow gets wonky with the extra travel.

 

Thanks for the info! I'm trying to get a smoother ride in the chunk and at least maintain the bottom out resistance of my current set up. Currently settled on 260psi with the .6 spacer on the dpx2 at 190lbs. (Tried the .8 but it gets pretty spiky in the last 3rd). Getting full travel if I overshoot on some of the bigger drops in the area (10'-15'+) Normal trail rides Im probably getting 95% most of the time unless I try something silly. I can get 90% of the stroke just pushing into the suspension in the parking lot so I don't think it's a bad setup for me. But if it gets chunky at speed the bike does get bogged down and can feel pretty harsh; Which is to be expected on snappy 130mm trail bike of course. For me the rear doesn't quite keep up with the 140mm luftkappe'd 36 up front or the bikes geo. Obviously it destroys the flow trails and jumps of course but being my only fully at the moment id like it to be a bit more rounded. Reading through this forum I've caught the optimizer bug and your response, as well as the general discussion has me convinced that a 210x55mm x2 is the ticket though. Maybe get some travel spacers to tinker if it somehow gets wonky with the extra travel.

I got to a similar point with the dpx2 and contemplated getting it re-shimmed but I ended up trying the DB air IL, and so far it's working really well, you know when you change one part and it make the other part feel harsh? my fork immediately felt "worse" after installing the shock, lol. I have them both feeling balanced now for the most part, I also run 140 up front, but a pike with the new debonair spring. I had long stroked the dpx2 3mm extra, it only helps a little, the CC is back to 50mm stroke.

 

Yeah I was looking at the cane creek db air il as well. Price is tempting vs the fox. Especially since I have decided I’m just gonna spring for the 2021 model which has almost no used market yet. By all accounts it’s just a better shock then the years prior and plays better with bikes that aren’t super progressive. Yeah I’m excited to do some testing with whatever shock and at whatever travel i end up deciding on anyways.

 

Guys, you should buy a V4. It makes everything better youre talking about.
I switched from a V3 to the new one and its amazing. makes everything better what the v3 was good at but also makes things better where the v3 was bad at.

 

Congrats on the new bike! I have no doubt the V4 is smoother through the chunk, which is great. It's also longer/slacker/taller, heavier, has less seatpost insertion, and is IMO not very visually appealing. I'm sure it's a great bike but i don't dig the overall package of the new V4 5010. I won't be switching unless forced to via an unfortunate warranty or crash replacement incident. Just looking to optimize the ride of my current bike which I am about 99.8% happy with.

 

@mp390

How do you like the 36 Grip 2?
What's your riding style and how often are you riding steep chutes with chunk?

I'm thinking about grabbing a 36 grip 2. Trying to get the most out of the v3 as opposed to building up a new bike. I bumped the 34 up to 140 but still feel under biked in some situations, mainly steeps w/ chunk.

If anyone else wants to chime in here's my thought process/theory. Reading the tech sheets for Fox 34 and 36 27.5 forks, the axle to crown measurements for a 34 @ 140mm and a 36 @ 150mm are within a few mm of each other. If my thinking is correct, then theoretically I could run the 36 @ 150 but not change the geo or raise up the front of the bike any more than I already have by increasing the 34's travel to 140mm. When flipping the chip to low and increasing travel in the 34 to 140 I noticed the slight decrease in reach, but I still have some adjustability with reach by lowering the bars 5 or 10mm as i run a 25mm spacer under the stem.

Anyone running a 36 at 150 on a v3 5010 tell me what you like and don't like about your setup.

TIA!!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

@mp390

How do you like the 36 Grip 2?
What's your riding style and how often are you riding steep chutes with chunk?

I'm thinking about grabbing a 36 grip 2. Trying to get the most out of the v3 as opposed to building up a new bike. I bumped the 34 up to 140 but still feel under biked in some situations, mainly steeps w/ chunk.

If anyone else wants to chime in here's my thought process/theory. Reading the tech sheets for Fox 34 and 36 27.5 forks, the axle to crown measurements for a 34 @ 140mm and a 36 @ 150mm are within a few mm of each other. If my thinking is correct, then theoretically I could run the 36 @ 150 but not change the geo or raise up the front of the bike any more than I already have by increasing the 34's travel to 140mm. When flipping the chip to low and increasing travel in the 34 to 140 I noticed the slight decrease in reach, but I still have some adjustability with reach by lowering the bars 5 or 10mm as i run a 25mm spacer under the stem.

Anyone running a 36 at 150 on a v3 5010 tell me what you like and don't like about your setup.

TIA!!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I no longer have my 5010, but I did ride mine for a season with a 150 Fox36 Grip2. At first, I rode it with a 140 in both lo and hi and ended up bumped it up almost immediately. Our trails are mostly slow technical with lots of big steep rollers, drops with rough landings, etc. I found the 140 was OK, but overall wasn't enough travel for me on the 5010. The 150 in Lo mode felt perfect on this bike, even on flowy XC stuff. My buddy had similar feelings on his bike with his Lyrik.

 

Hi jasonryen,

unfortunately, I cannot provide you comparison with F34, because I've never ridden it. But I can provide you a comparison with Pike Ultimate RC2 150mm which I had at the beginning.

The F36 GRIP2 is the best fork I've ever ridden. The previous Pike was not as stable in travel (I ride 2 tokens in F36 and 85 PSI) and also I felt a lot of harshness in rough terrain and big rocks - possible cause is that Pike lower legs are not so rigid so they bends which causes that inner legs are not straight in bushings and I had the feeling like the front wheel jams on that obstacles. F36 is maybe not so rigid in tests, but it seems that it bends in different part so the inner legs are still straight at the outer legs.

I also think that GRIP damper is much better than RC2 Charger 2.1 in Pike - high speed expansion works better and also compression part is slightly better.

All these small differences - better spring part, better damper and also greater rigidity allows me to be more confident in rough terrain.

With X2 rear shock the bike is moved to completely different level. I can only recommend it! I'm faster, I'm more confident. And if I compare with DPX2 shock, I can tuni it that the front and rear suspension have the same behavior.

Regarding the geometry - I think that 150mm F36 and 150mm F34 has the same AtC height (539,00mm), so it doesn't affect your geometry if you have 150mm F34.

I'm using the low setting and my geometry is following:

• Head tube angle: 65,52°
• Seat tube angle: 74,22°
• wheel base: 1197,4mm
• BB drop: 18,94mm
• BB height: 347,06mm
• Crank arm ground clearance: 177,1 (that I'm using the 170mm cranks)
• Reach: real probably 446,6mm
• Stack: 626,9mm

I've also one small comparison with Marzocchi Z1 GRIP which I've tested on my friend's Bronson V2. This fork is basically F36 Rhytm, but in comparison with F36 GRIP it has completely different feeling - it is not so stable in mid travel, but it feels like the wheel is glued to surface - there is not so good feedback from fork - it is more comfortable, but does not provide that "race" feeling that you have a very good grip, but the fork saves travel to bigger hits.

BTW I have one small update at the end of the season - I've changed XTR 12spd to XX1 AXS and it is amazing. :0) And I can finally buy a Ficlock bottle :0)

 

For anyone considering a different shock to the dpx2 for better small bump and more composure through fast chunk, I can’t recommend a megneg’d super deluxe enough. This shock is a takeoff from a 2021 5010 and so has the low/low(the stock dpx2 on the V3 also uses a low low tune) tune with a high-flow piston. The super deluxe pre megneg was noticeably better through the chunk I think mostly due to the damper/high flow piston compared to the stock dpx2. The Megneg is a much bigger change though; it has the bike melting through things that previously would slap you around or even boot you off line. The pop and pump is still there as there is increased mid support as result of the higher pressures you have to run with the Megneg can. The suspension also doesn’t have any weird hiccups or ramps toward bottom out as result of being able to remove volume spacers due to the increased shock pressure. It’s super supple off the top and then supportive with no weirdness all the way to the end. Both the dpx2 and super deluxe were/are set to the stock 50mm stroke.
Only negative I can think of is that it’s heavier than the stock dpx2; about 100grams.
I’m about 190lbs and currently running the Megneg with 2 neg bands and a gnardog spacer in the positive side(the gnardog spacer is a bit smaller than the fox .6 spacer for reference) in the positive side at 255psi which gives a smidge over 30%sag. Bottom out resistance is pretty much the same as the dpx2 that I most recently had set up with a .86 spacer at 250psi. I needed to run the dpx2 that way as I ride some bigger hits, but it felt pretty poor through the rough like that. The megneg’d super deluxe feels sublime all the way through the travel no matter the terrain.

 

Hi :0) I think I'm done with upgrades. I don't see anything that can be replaced to make it work better. Yes, I can start with upgrades that would reduce weight, but somehow I see no reason why I should do it.

 

^^^^ That's a logical way to see the upgrade thing.

Cheers

 

Has anyone spent much time running the 5010 v3 with a 55mm stroke shock?

I've got a DVO Jade X 210x50 ordered arriving in the next few days. The stroke on these shocks can be changed easily just by switching out the bottom spring clip/retainer. I've ordered the spring clip that will change the stroke to 55mm just to experiment.

I think it will change the travel to 143mm if I understand it correctly.

Keen to hear anyone else's thoughts on running the longer stroke, pros/cons?

Will get some photos up

 

I've got a 55mm stroke on my 5010 v3 and it's very nice. However I will say that the shock itself will make a big difference. I have tried a few different 55 stroke shocks on it - coil feels good if you can dial in the setup very precisely. Currently I have an X2 at 55mm stroke and it's mind blowing.

 

I am thinking about switching out the 175 mm SRAM Stylo 7k DUB 32T cranks that came on my S+ XL with 170 mm cranks. Ideally, all I want to do is replace in kind, but it seems the Stylos are not available at retail (I read they are OEM somewhere). Does anyone know if the descendants would be a direct replacement, or what else would be?

 

They are. I put 170mm Descendant carbon cranks on mine.

 

I'm thinking about trying the Float X once it is available. I had to rebuild the DPX a year ago and its sounding like it could use another rebuild. I'm guessing the high PSI plus weight plus riding style is probably not that conducive to the DPXs longevity.