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26? What's the point??!!

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127K views 783 replies 200 participants last post by  MattiThundrrr  
#1 · (Edited)
I'm really interested in hearing what you love about your obsolete hoops. Okay I'll admit... I'm one of those people who bucks the tide, goes against the grain. I have issues with authority. I'll prove I can do it on 26" just because I can.

Me first:
I've got the "Magic Bike". The One. It may not be your first choice, it may not be ultra-fancy or expensive...but when I sit down, and reach out...my hands rest exactly where they need to be. My fingers contact my levers at exactly the right points. My ride takes off like a rocket and effortlessly soars with a smile. My hoops are stout, I never second-guess a landing.

I may exert my authority over my cockpit when traversing rocky, gnarly flats...but I get through them. The benefits outweigh the deficit.

That's me. That's my 26" preference.
 
#441 ·
Anybody who thinks there's no point in riding a 26" is not a real rider. They're a poser who just HAS to have the latest bicycling underwear to be 'cool'.
What's next, the 29'er guys gonna say they're no good because 27.5 is here now? Get real. Ride what you like and do it for yourself. Don't ride to impress the other poser clowns who just HAVE to get that bicycling bra and not for their woman.
 
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#465 ·
My goal when out riding isn't to be the fastest, but to have the most fun getting there. My Strava times aren't exactly blazing downhill because I am aiming for every piece of chunk I can find.

Doing that kind of riding, there is no difference between my 29" 160mm bike, and my friends 26" 180mm bike. We are both full of smiles when we regroup at the bottom of the hill.
 
#444 · (Edited)
Forgot to mention:

I have put my engineering degree to test and thought I should run the math before saying anything. People say big things about inertia but inertia alone doesn´t mean the full picture. Inertia only have a meaning when coupled with rotational speed. When you put the math together for rotational energy, which is what counts: power, there will be no difference on the wheel size because the radius that influence inertia values will be cancelled on the rotational speed equation. So it will come down to mass placement.

example: given two wheels, and the rim weight is exactly at 0.9 of the total radius, and they weight the same, no matter how big the rim is, the energy equation for that will be the same.

So fat tires might change things slightly as the rim will get proportionally inwards when compared to normal wheels. It will be good as the more centered the mass, the less energy it takes to rotate. however, fat tires are heavier so it might counter act things.

During my calculations, I´ve figured out that energy to rotate thes rims are something like 1/10th of the energy required to rotate the tires. So going tubeless and having reasonably light tires is the way to go. Spokes are 1/1000th of the tires so don´t mind if your wheel is heavy because of spokes. It is better to have a light rim with plenty of spokes than a heavy rim with less spokes. Both dinamically and structurally. Energy required to rotate the hubs are neglectible. its so small that you can consider it static weight.

Of course, rotating or not, every gram will have to be taken uphill and the work equation is mass times distance plus mass times gravity times height. divide them by time and you have power. Conclusion: if you have two riders with same power ability and same weight, completely equal, being one wiht a 20lbs bike and the other has a 30lbs bike. The lighter bike will take the podium as the total mass (rider+bike) is lesser.

26ers have the advantage of being lighter. two rims of same kind, two tires of same kind will always be lighter in 26er format than 29er format.

The next math topic comes into a different name: vibration. every time your bike chatter on the trail, every time it went up half an inch, the energy to lift the bike plus yourself came from the pedals. mass x gravity x height. that´s why we get slowed when things start vibrating. there are two ways to deal with that:
1 - bigger wheels
2 - good suspension

At this point, the conclusion is: good suspension trumps wheelsize. if youre tight on the budget, a cheap 29er will be more comfortable but heavier to pedal. a cheap 26er will be less comfortable and lighter to pedal.

an expensive 26er with good components will not let you down. So as an expensive 29er will also not let you down if you´re light rider and can deal the flexibility. cant be bigger and stiffer at same time. Smaller will always be stiffer. You can make the most of engineering th get a better stiffer 29er but the same technology applied to a 26er will render even better results.

When motorcycles remove the suspension or add locks to them, or move to bigger wheels, than we can review this topic. Meanwhile, the motorcycle wheels are smaller and they have good suspension.


more consideration on wheel sizes: small people get along on small bikes. big wheels on small bikes is the same as big bikes with small wheels. things are meant to be proportional. Look at the cars. big tires have more volume and help big heavy riders to run same pressure as small riders on small wheels. To me, small bikes, medium bikes, large bikes should all have proportional dimensions, with wheels getting bigger, chainstays getting bigger, wheelbase getting bigger, all in same proportion, ending up in similar handling regardless of size.
 
#445 ·
below you can find the equations. bear in mind that for the same linear speed of the bike bigger wheels will have lower rotational speed than smaller wheels. smaller wheels will have less inertia and higher rotational speed and vice versa for bigger wheels.

linear speed of the bike = V
mass = m
radius of the mass = r
Inertia = I = m.r^2
rotational speed = W = V . 2Pi / 2Pi.r = V/r
energy = e = I.W^2
energy = m.r^2 . v^2/r^2 = m.v^2

the final equation, when putting together inertia and rotational speed using the bike´s linear speed, you can see the radius get cancelled and the energy is purely mass times the square of the speed.

these equations are relevant for the mass in contact with soil, the maximum radius, which would be the tire treads. If you workout the inertia equation for the rim, the radius will be, lets say, 0.9r. So, if the other wheel in comparison has the same proportions, with the rim at 0.9r, things will be equal as well.

good luck now trying to convince somebody bigger wheels are faster just because they are big... take a look at race cars and monster trucks....
 
#448 ·
some peeps like all the new technology....some peeps don't. I fall into the last category. I like steep head angles, and less suspension. I don't like modern plastic vehicles. I go for real steel. I'm short, so I like 26er's....heck, even my motorcycle is a hardtail. Most peeps just like to ride barcaloungers. 26er's aren't going extinct....
 
#452 ·
I did break most of my PR's going uphill within the first few rides though.... just not downhill.... everything it took me to get is fast as I could be before d h I just haven't done it yet. 6 months ago I didn't think I'd be able to beat any of those PR's ever again from 2014 but I actually think I can on this bike.... I just got to pay my dues and have a good day......

PS: I probably was faster Bank in the corners on the 26th for sure
 
#456 ·
It does feel faster off the line so to speak. Whatever you like, you ride. I don't understand the inferiority complex here with the major manufacturers moving on to larger tire sizes. Are people really basing their identity on their tire sizes and their bike makes? I think one day someone should make an indie movie out of 26" bikes, titled something like The Rise and Fall of the 26" Mountain Bike Tire, 1978-2013. It may have fallen but it will never go away, don't worry.
 
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#460 ·
aaagh, it comes down to the rider really.
I ride my 26er almost all the time. I own a 650b as well. When I ride with my friends, I am faster by alot compared to the guys on 29 or 650. In fact all the fast guys are riding 26 bikes. All the bikes across the board are trail and enduro bikes, so no major difference including the year models are about the same.
I wish for the DH world cup, riders would be allowed to make use of 26er wheels. There were some guys who were alot faster on it.
 
#461 ·
I think the post is more like: why do you still ride 26? we can´t bring a war 26x 650 or 29er because everyone here might have a 26er, look at her and say: I cant sell you, you are so fun. Even when you already ride bigger wheels just because you´ve got a superstar new bike and she was not available in 26 size. Your wife look at you and demands the 26er to be sold but you resist, because it is more than a bike. You know you still can rip on her and await for the day that you will be so fit that you will get her and go faster than everyone else, or on that day that you know you don´t need to go fast and want have fun, even if this day will not happen in an year time, you still save your bike and just can´t let her go.
 
#477 ·
I am exactly in this boat. In my garage there are four bikes hanging from the ceiling. 26,27.5,29 and 29HT. No way I am selling my Blur XCc (21.5 lb). It is my first high end bike. Too many good memories. Like to take it for a spin from time to time. Still tons of nimble fun! Despite being "outdated" this bike still rocks. Also it is the bike that easiest fits in the trunk
 
#462 ·
In one of the most scientifically done comparisons of wheel size, done by world cup racers, 29ers were faster than 26ers by much less than half of 1% over a course several miles long.

This is a car video, but it shows how two completely different vehicles with different strengths become very evenly matched by a mixture of track features.
 
#463 ·
^That's a good point. I've seen a professional racecar driver in a Porsche Boxster on the track obliterating mediocre drivers in cars that had 2-3 times the horse power and cost 2-3 times as much.

I like to buy shiny new bikes and parts from time to time, but the bike marketers will have us believe that we need to buy the latest and greatest to be better faster riders when in reality we should be focusing more on developing our talent first. I bought a 27.5 (still have a 26) not too long ago but now the new cool thing is mid travel 29ers! Me and my wallet can't keep up with these trends.
 
#469 ·
I will take a different tact. Why I am replacing my 26"er.

The Liquid20 is 14 years old. The frame is beginning to get some cracks long the rear triangle and I don't feel like taking it to a specialized welding shop that can do aluminum.
The Rockshock Psylo shocks have had it, or more to point, just don't handle my body anymore. Getting someone to custom build a core for them just doesn't make any sense. So the only other option is to replace the forks all together. $$$ So then you start to look at what else is on the way out. Do I want to also replace the rear cassette and chain? (7 years for both of them). The Hayes hydrolic breaks need to be overhauled. The tires and tubes are just about ridden through their useful life. So when I started to add up the cost of fixing everything that needs to get done, it came to light that the cost of just buying a new 27.5" was going to be only a few dollars more than trying to revive what you might as well say is a dead horse.

Why am I riding a 27.5"er. becuase it cost too much to ride my 26" any more.
 
#470 ·
So when I started to add up the cost of fixing everything that needs to get done, it came to light that the cost of just buying a new 27.5" was going to be only a few dollars more than trying to revive what you might as well say is a dead horse.

Why am I riding a 27.5"er. becuase it cost too much to ride my 26" any more.
I get that. My own next bike will be a 27.5. I'll buy whatever is in the mainstream for value, and right now that means 27.5.
 
#474 ·
Why I ride 26". I have built up a 26er with top end NOS parts that were substantially discounted. The handling is so quick. I get a perverse pleasure of leaving a hotshot unfit rider behind on his overbuilt full suspension bike that he brought to a trail that only requires a simple bike.I have all three wheel sizes, they each have their attributes. NOS frames can be purchased from China for under $200.00, such as Cube brand or Giant. I set mine up with a 2x10(Shimano),1x9, 1x10 (RaceFace single ring) with perfect chainline.
 
#478 ·
Similar situation here as well.

Something else we going through these days is 27.2, what's the point?

We've got a brace of 27.2 seatposts.

Now we're in the habit of using dropper posts, and 27.2 is just too skinny and niche for many options. However there are a few out there.

Who ride's 26 & 27.2 with a dropper post? Who has drilled into an old 26" seat tube to create a stealth cable routing? Would anyone dare to?

I don't, but I'm telling you right now I probably will do these things one day...well maybe not.

So will my wife. She's got a nice 26'er.

Back in the day there was a whole different approach obviously, where we'd just get back and sort of stiffen up the core and suck the seat into the gut toake it down the steepest sections. It was nuts. Sometimes we'd get stuck back there! Remember that?

Last weekend I saw a guy on a pristine 94' Bontrager. It looked like a BMX bike next to all the long legged low and slack FS bikes on the summit. But it still looked slick.

Image


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#486 ·
I'll be 47 years old 2 weeks after my third child is born at the end of this coming August. I'm getting back into mountain biking to start getting cardio exercise again and shed some pounds so I can keep up with these kids (1 son is incoming, 1 son is 3 years old, and my daughter will be 18 this year). Otherwise I'll be the lethargic old guy in his late 50's or early 60's when these boys are teenagers. I always used to need to be on top of the tech game with the latest & greatest toys but now priorities have changed. I enjoy things that have been with me for years or decades more than the latest & greatest shiny new toys. My Super V has been in a state of disassembly for weeks now and I need to get it back together so I can get riding!
 
#487 ·
Totally agree on the tried and true comment... and same here, I ride the bikes I have to get myself in shape, I'm not racing anyone, just trying to improve myself. Everything on my bikes works, there is no need for me to get any of the latest gadgets... and in any case they wouldn't even fit my bikes anymore. I did get several spare 26er parts when they were cheap to stock up... so I'll be good for a while. I'm hopeful that my 2 girls (2 and 6) will want to go riding on the trail with me... we shall see.
 
#488 ·
I've read through a bunch of these responses and one thing I haven't seen mentioned nearly as much is how most of the former "standards" that were in play during the end of the 26 era have also gone away. I have 2 bikes in 26", a 93 WTB Phoenix and an 08 Turner 5.spot. It's nearly impossible to replace the fork on eaither bike, 1 because it's a 1" steerer and cantilevers and the other because it's a 1 1/8" straight steerer. I never imagined that in just 10 years a bike could go from the top of the line to a dinosaur.

Other things....tire choices, rim choices, axle standards, etc etc etc
 
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#489 ·
I have 2 bikes in 26", a 93 WTB Phoenix and an 08 Turner 5.spot. It's nearly impossible to replace the fork on eaither bike, 1 because it's a 1" steerer and cantilevers and the other because it's a 1 1/8" straight steerer. I never imagined that in just 10 years a bike could go from the top of the line to a dinosaur.
The bike industry must be loving it. I've a friend in the same boat, whose $3500 bike will be nothing but a boat anchor once his current fork is done. He'd love to upgrade, but he's SOL because everything today is tapered.
 
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