Pretty sure you need to run the eyelet bearing no matter what.
You might be able to fudge it with some creative spacers, but I wouldn’t.

 

Anyone else really enjoying the Marzocchi Z2 fork that came with the C30 build? I've done some tasteful upgrades around the bike but left the fork. It's simple, set & forget, and has an open bath design that I find to perform well despite it's simplicity. Decided to keep it.

Other upgrades include XTR crankset, XTR shifter, OneUp carbon bars, 40mm stem, Slate TRP Evo brakes... ready for the snow to melt.

 

Definitely a wheel upgrade. The bike becomes a lot more snappy with a lighter set. The OneUP bars are awesome.

 

This is mine as is stands. Its a replacement for my Spur which my other half is having, build up with her bits & I’ve transferred my parts over.

I was between the L & XL on the Spur, so this as an XL is ideal in the slack setting (which is a lot slacker than RM claim).

All indications are itis just as good as the Spur, but a little more muted, due to no flex stays, which both have their benefits. I expect this will also be my most ridden bike. 🙂

 

Nice build! I am curious why you say it’s “a lot slacker than RM claim”? I run mine in the steepest setting because riding in my area is more marathon XC than trail but I’d like to try some of the slacker settings.

 

I’m probably the opposite in that I’m more trail than XC, but I do like big days out & I don’t want to not ride fun stuff, due to sketchy, old school geometry.

My angle measure puts the HA at 63.8 degrees in the slackest setting. I will measure the BB height also, as I suspect that will have dropped due to the HA & it’s probably steepened the seat tube angle also.

No complaints though - I am a fan of super light, short travel bikes with aggro geometry

 

Is that a 130mm fork or bigger?

 

140, which should match the stock geometry, as I understand it was measured with the big, external lower headset cup & a 130mm fork.

I have a 130 air shaft to put in it, but haven’t felt the need yet.

 

Wow, your build is sexy. Are you running Factions or Unions? I'm wondering if the bike noticeably benefits from stiffer wheels, because I feel like my Element is kind of flexy in the corners.

 

Greetings from Germany. 11,9kg

 

For those who have swapped the stock crankset/BB for a Race Face Next which crank spindle length did you install?

I found the answer. 134mm spindle with a Boost Cinch chainring.

 

My c50 came in. Love the color.

 

Got my carbon wheels with dt 240s on. Ordered some color match decals.

 

After about 10 rides with the new Pike Ultimate 140mm fork, I can say this fork has transformed the bike. It handles so much better than before. Running a ZS bottom headset cup, Position 1 (slack). The stock Fox Performance Elite 130 was garbage in terms of performance, and I could never get on with the handling of the bike with that fork. I was seriously contemplating selling the bike before switching to this fork. Now I'm happy.

 

What is the size of the Ergon saddle, S/M or M/L?
Thanks

 

If one wanted to replace the DPS rear shock with a DPX2 is there a particular tune code that would work best for the Element. I'm on a size L, weigh 185lbs, and have steep/rough downhills that range from 500' to 3000'.

 

RideIt above is right, you're better off with the new Float X.

If you do choose a DPX2, maybe because it was inexpensive on Marketplace or somewhere else, then I've run this tune with great success:
- CM, LRM, Rezi A F M+

 

Trust me, get a FloatX and not a DPX2. The ‘reservoir’ on a DPX2 is basically just for looks, and the things are a major PITA to tune correctly.

 

Cool to know that it’s possible to get a decent tune out of a DPX2, I was never really happy with it on a previous Gen instinct.

 

The DPX2 worked well to achieve a feeling more akin to a trail bike, with really good mid-stroke support and more consistent damping. You're right that in longer travel applications it was more finicky to tune well, but on the Element it was a great match.

 

I have a C30 and getting into longer distance XCM type events, am I better off replacing the fork (bomber Z2) or wheels (wtb i27 rims) first? What’s going to be value for weight saving and feel?

 

Wheels (and tires) first, reducing rotational weight offers the best gain for your purpose.

 

Yes, by far replaced the wheels first, because you will also get a performance upgrade out of the bike. The stock wheels are rather flimsy but the bomber fork will operate completely fine for XC needs; if you upgrade the fork you'll pretty much only get weight savings as the performance is good enough.

 

Set this one up to be kinda XC. Wheels are chonky, but the light ones are being repaired and should lose 3-400 g from frame. Hoping that with light wheels, foam grips, and xo1 cassette it will be sun 25lbs.
Does anyone else think that the steepness of the seat tube angle is measured oddly? I can get the same saddle position at sag as my old blur 3 tr with a 120 fork on both, and that bike was more than 3 degrees slacker. At my saddle height that should be more than 4.5 cm forward, which is twice the range my saddle can adjust


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Anybody 6’6” running an Element here. Haven’t been able to find a XL around here to throw a leg over. I like the numbers as it’s a little longer and a little more stack than my XL Specialized Chisel. Manufacturers don’t seem to want to make an XC leaning bike in the XXL variety. The Tallboy comes close but is much more a trail/all mountain type chunky frame build. Randomly ran across a large Element the other day and it’s just the thing I’m really looking for.


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Anybody 6’6” running an Element here. Haven’t been able to find a XL around here to throw a leg over. I like the numbers as it’s a little longer and a little more stack than my XL Specialized Chisel. Manufacturers don’t seem to want to make an XC leaning bike in the XXL variety. The Tallboy comes close but is much more a trail/all mountain type chunky frame build. Randomly ran across a large Element the other day and it’s just the thing I’m really looking for.


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I can't answer your question, but at 6'6, you'll find the fit a bit better with a 60-70mm stem. Our size range for the XL tops out a 6'6, but you might find the stock 50mm stem a touch short.

 

This is my build. '22 MY C50, L frame (loved the color). Waiting on a carbon wheelset. Till then, 35ID Spank Oozy 365 will do it.

Swapped calipers to 4pot SLX & dropper to a 200mm PNW. Oneup carbon bars & 45mm Spank 350 stem. XCadey PM on 170mm cranks (thinking of trying 165s, I do strike a bit). About 300mi on blue trails, all @ neutral (3) position. Did not try a slacker/lower spot yet (perhaps with the 165 cranks?).
Running Dissector 3C 2.4WT Front w/ Rekon 3C 2.4WT rear (both mildly used). New wheelset + tires were moved to the bike I had the Spank wheels on.

Flirting with the idea of 140mm, but unsure if I should just up-shaft the 34 or get a '23 Pike.

 

For those of you considering an XC-ish build of an Element, here's what I've been running this season:

-Sid Ultimate 120mm fork
-Industry Nine Ultralite 1/1 Wheels
-Cane Creek Hellbender 70 Lite
-TRP Slate T4 Brakes
-SRAM Centerline X Rotors 180/180
- I9 A35 Stem
-One up Carbon Bars
-ODI F1 Vapor Grips
-Vittoria Mezcal/Barzo
-Stock Fox DPS Shock
-Wolftooth Resolve Dropper 150mm
-WTB Ti Volt Wide
-SRAM X01 shifter/derailluer/cassette
-Sigeyi Power Meter
-Crankbrothers Candy 3 pedals

Bikes weighs in at 25.5 lbs with pedals.

This is my build. '22 MY C50, L frame (loved the color). Waiting on a carbon wheelset. Till then, 35ID Spank Oozy 365 will do it.

Swapped calipers to 4pot SLX & dropper to a 200mm PNW. Oneup carbon bars & 45mm Spank 350 stem. XCadey PM on 170mm cranks (thinking of trying 165s, I do strike a bit). About 300mi on blue trails, all @ neutral (3) position. Did not try a slacker/lower spot yet (perhaps with the 165 cranks?).
Running Dissector 3C 2.4WT Front w/ Rekon 3C 2.4WT rear (both mildly used). New wheelset + tires were moved to the bike I had the Spank wheels on.

Flirting with the idea of 140mm, but unsure if I should just up-shaft the 34 or get a '23 Pike.

I unintendedly ran the geo of a 140mm fork (had the 10mm spacer headset) for a few months. Rode great. I'd have zero qualms about doing it again with a bigger fork. I also love my Pike on mine when I set my element up in trail mode.

Also 165mm cranks are incredible. I don't think I can go back to 170mm+ again.

Really happy with my Element. But after about 300 miles ridden the shock is still losing a lot of oil/grease every ride. I'm wondering if this is normal or the shock was leaky from the start.
View attachment 2035824

Yeah, pretty normal. They sometimes overstuff their products with grease out of the factory and you get that. You're almost coming up on the 50 hour mark so you could pull it soon and do a quick air can service to see what's going on.

 

Just picked up a C30 and I'm really excited to build it up but I have never dealt with a press fit bottom bracket before.

After looking at RM website for tech specs i believe this bottom bracket will work for the frame with the e*13 xcx race crankset:

E*Thirteen (BB92 e*13 / 30 mm )

Can anyone confirm, I saw a few XCX race cranksets in build list on this thread but didn't see this bottom bracket.

Thank you!

 

Yes you will want the BB92 version.

 

Really happy with my Element. But after about 300 miles ridden the shock is still losing a lot of oil/grease every ride. I'm wondering if this is normal or the shock was leaky from the start.

 

I have seen this on my wife's Fox DPS. I don't think it is anything to worry about unless it is dripping out as there is no noticeable difference in performance. After an air can service, the issue went away.

 

Curious if anyone has experimented with 51 mm offset vs 44 mm offset forks on the element.

I would think with the longer wheelbase sticking to 44 mm offset would seem smart… but curious If anyone tried 51 mm offset.

 

Shorter offset = longer trail = more stable.
Longer offset = shorter trail = more maneuverable @ low speeds.

Wheelbase is not linked to shorter or longer offsets per se, or at least AFAIK.

If you like "steering" your bike more, perhaps the 51 will work for you and make the bike "sharper" @ switchbacks & technical climbs.
If you like leaning the bike more to go faster down, your trails have upkept berms etc the 44 (shorter offset) is superior, and more or less this is what RM thought would suit the Element's Geo better, but that doesn't mean it is the only way.

 

For those wanting to extend the life of the main pivot bearing here's V1.0 of a crud shield I made from an old inner tube. So far it's worked well, although V2.0 will extend further over the gap between chainstay/bearing tabs for better coverage.

 

I’m having fun building up my C30… but man it’s almost like Rocky Mountain tried extra hard to make the stock components super heavy.

I get stock components are heavy, but some of these are like 100-200 grams heavier than the other stock components I have laying around the garage. The rear wheel with everything on it, 3 kg, LoL Wow!

it makes taking weight off the bike fun and easy.

 

I’m having fun building up my C30… but man it’s almost like Rocky Mountain tried extra hard to make the stock components super heavy.

I get stock components are heavy, but some of these are like 100-200 grams heavier than the other stock components I have laying around the garage. The rear wheel with everything on it, 3 kg, LoL Wow!

it makes taking weight off the bike fun and easy.

Although you can definately shave off some bulk, I don't know where RM "tried" to make things heavy...it is just the nature of components AT THE BASE PRICEPOINT.
The rear wheel out of your example, they use a WTB i27 with entry shimano hubs and whatnot, but it is just above 1kg - pretty typical (front is like high ~800gr, again, typical for OEM wheels).

The rear cassette is about 600gr, cause all steel Deore and 10-51T, but even if you were to go XT on cassette & rotor etc, you would save 130+70 ~ 200gr altogether.
The rest is tire (about 1kg), valve stem, sealant etc...

Yes, you could find a 300gr lighter wheel, and mount a lighter tire (with compromises @ traction and/or protection) etc, but it is no more fun or ea$ier than with any other base build, i.e. the typical money pit. My 2c