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2020 Switchblade ride reports

110K views 515 replies 102 participants last post by  Smithjones  
#1 ·
I'm in the market for a new bike and want to know how the new Switchblade rides. Any owners out there?

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#83 ·
I was looking at both of these bikes - I chose the Rascal over the SB. But I live in Idaho and most of our trails are long, flowy, buff singletrack with a lot of climbing. We don't get much tight, rocky, rooty stuff. I thought the Rascal would be better for the climbs but still capable for the DH. The Ripley, or even a more XC oriented bike like the Top Fuel is probably a better choice, but the Rascal is so fun.

I think for you it depends on whether you want a little more performance in the climbs or DH. People really seem to love the SB. Give CyclePath in Portland (OR) a call - Bill sells a ton of SBs and a few Rascals, and he can give you a proper comparison.

To answer your question, I think the SB might be a bit better for you in the trails you're running.
 
#84 ·
I raced the Switchblade at China Peak(gnarly rocks and slabs with a good amount of pedaling in the stages) a couple of weeks ago and was able to pilot it into 2nd place for Sport class 40-49. I think it could handle just about anything i threw at it. I wasn't wishing for a slacker head angle or more travel. I only bottomed it a couple times. I run 3 spacers in the front and the stock .6 in the dpx2. I think it is a great bike and am totally happy with the improvements from the V1 switchblade which I owned for 3 years and 4200 miles.
 
#86 ·
Just some early thoughts on fork setup here. Similar to an earlier post, I'm more of a trails Rider. I wasn't seeing nearly enough sag and removed the spacer and still have the same sag problem.

Talked to super cool guy at Fox and he recommended that I still stick with the recommended air pressure so I set that up and put a shockwiz on the bike to test it out... the attached shows the current results. Still running 8% sag.

I'm going to drop the SAG to about 20% and ride the same trail today to see what kind of report I get back.

Image


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#90 · (Edited)
Following up here for anyone interested. Dropped my PSI to 56 and rode the exact same trail again with much better results.

Really confused with Fox's reco .. almost makes me wonder if there is something wrong with my fork?
At the Fox recommended pressure, I get no sag and hurt my wrist trying to compress the fork to 50%.

Running 55 PSI and it feels much better. Full travel on drops and ~75% on trail.
 
#88 ·
I'm a heavier rider with the new 2021 fox 36. My reqs stated like 83 psi.. I"m at 72 psi with 2 tokens. Feels much better. This is from the pivot set up guide. If I go to the Fox web page, it states that I to have around 110 psi.. No way..
 
#93 ·
First reaction post after a typical ~10 mile ride w/ 1600' of climb, medium tech

Old bike: 2017, XL, Pro X01 build, Reynolds wheels
New bike: 2020, XL, Pro XT/XTR build, DT Swiss wheels

Interestingly, the bike feels bigger in the cockpit, though the measurement differences are really small. It could be just going from 760mm bars to 800mm. I'm likely to change that out. I'm halfway thinking about going to a shorter (35mm) stem, though I might wait until after I change the bars out and get used to that change first.

I could feel the extra 20mm of wheelbase in switchbacky corners on the climbs, but nothing I won't get used to. I haven't even begun to think about messing with the suspension yet... will get the geometry sorted out first.

The difference in climbing was surprisingly large. I'm used to the old bike and have adapted to keep the nose down. This bike pretty much won't lift its nose except in extreme cases. Is that completely due to the chainstays? Or chainstays AND wheelbase?

It's a little more stable on the downs, though that difference didn't feel as big as the climbing.

It is a little less nimble, at least at first blush, but perhaps I'll get used to the difference in size and that will go away.
 
#94 ·
First reaction post after a typical ~10 mile ride w/ 1600' of climb, medium tech

Old bike: 2017, XL, Pro X01 build, Reynolds wheels
New bike: 2020, XL, Pro XT/XTR build, DT Swiss wheels

The difference in climbing was surprisingly large. I'm used to the old bike and have adapted to keep the nose down. This bike pretty much won't lift its nose except in extreme cases. Is that completely due to the chainstays? Or chainstays AND wheelbase?
Longer chainstays and steeper STA - seat tube angle makes a big difference in keeping your weight forward on climbs and thus keeping the front wheel more planted.
 
#97 ·
PSI Starting Point

I'm confused and need some advice from Pivot Moderators on the recommended starting point for fork PSI.

The Pivot suspension setup sheets included with my bike say 62 psi for 190 lb rider.


That has now changed based on the recent download on the website this morning to 82-94 psi. It does say that some riders need to run 1-2 steps below their weight to achieve full travel.


While the Fox site says 80-89 based on DTMX ID #.


Lately, I've been experimenting with 63 psi on my local OH super rooty trails. This seems super plush but is using ~70% of travel.
 
#98 ·
I'm confused and need some advice from Pivot Moderators on the recommended starting point for fork PSI.

The Pivot suspension setup sheets included with my bike say 62 psi for 190 lb rider.
Image


That has now changed based on the recent download on the website this morning to 82-94 psi. It does say that some riders need to run 1-2 steps below their weight to achieve full travel.
Image


While the Fox site says 80-89 based on DTMX ID #.
Image


Lately, I've been experimenting with 63 psi on my local OH super rooty trails. This seems super plush but is using ~70% of travel.
I'm not a moderator, but IMO there's not one magic psi number that is the only correct amount of pressure to run. It depends on the terrain you're riding, your riding style, and preference for fork feel. I think the only requirement would be that if you are regularly bottoming your fork, you need to add pressure or volume spacers.

Personally, I prefer a plusher feel up front, so I run lower pressure than recommended and have added a couple volume spacers to add progressive ramp-up and prevent bottoming on larger drops/hits. I also dial in more compression damping if I'm about to hit a large roll-down or am on a trail with repeated drops/hits, in order to keep the fork higher in its travel. That works for me and my terrain/preference, but others may desire a different feel or behavior.

What do you want to change about the current behavior you're getting at 63psi? Do you WANT to use more than 70% travel, or are you happy having some in reserve for bigger hits? Do you like the plush feel, or do you want more stiffness/support?
 
#101 ·
OK, 3 days, 3 rides. I'm starting to adapt to everything, and this is a great bike. For those that are riding the old SB and thinking about the new one, I think it's OK to note that the delta isn't gigantic. If you're very tall and/or have a lot of issue with the light nose, you might really like the upgrade. If money is tight, I wouldn't make the jump. Just my 2 cents.

The new bike is very stable and predictable in the climbs without getting extreme on the forward shift. It's also a bit more planted on the downs. I did notice the extra wheelbase this morning (in a bad way)... when I rolled over a rock roll, I scuffed a couple of chain links on the way over. That's new compared to the old bike.

I started paying more attention to the suspension setup. I think the posters above got it sorted out, but would emphasize that the starting point on suspension settings (assuming you don't have your own approach) should come from Pivot's website, not Fox's. Also, I would underline that Pivot recommends the middle compression setting for big riders and the 3mm adjustment on the DPX2 is ONLY for the wide open setting on the 3-way control.

I'm pretty close to the Pivot recommended settings, and really like everything so far. There's a lot of pedaling support, but without some of the jabby harshness I occasionally felt on the v1/Float X2.

Great bike.
 
#103 ·
I'm really interested in the SB, currently on a large mach 5.5. This would be my first 29er. I'm pretty comfortable on my Large 5.5 at 5'10" and a 40mm stem. Should I stick with a Large for the SB? I've always thought that you should size down a little on a 29er, and I'm right in between sizes usually. Anyone coming from a 5.5 care to compare the two? The posts about turning it into a mullet are also intriguing. TIA.
 
#104 ·
I'm in the same situation as you. I own a 5.5 and am about your height. I was very comfortable on the large SB. Got enough time on it to gather a decent opinion. IMO, It's not a lot different than the 5.5. With the exception of the wheel size, the specs are pretty close. I really loved the bike but my 5.5 is fantastic too. Honestly unless you just want to get into the 29" wheel club, IMO there isn't enough difference to switch. That said, between the two if I were buying right now, I'd pick the SB all day.
 
#105 ·
I have 9 rides in now. I don't claim to be a suspension wizard, but this is where I am right now, for reference. I'm running about 220lbs right now, and usually carry a ~10lb pack.

• Rear
â—‹ 225psi
â—‹ Rebound - 12 clicks CW from open
â—‹ Compression - middle setting

• Front
â—‹ 110 psi
â—‹ LSR - 13 CW
â—‹ HSR - 5 CW
â—‹ HSC (blue) - 2 CW
â—‹ LSC (black) - 5 CW

I haven't bottomed out the fork much and am thinking about dropping some pressure out of that, though it's felt good and I'm also tempted to not screw with it and know I have some reserve.
 
#106 ·
I have 9 rides in now. I don't claim to be a suspension wizard, but this is where I am right now, for reference. I'm running about 220lbs right now, and usually carry a ~10lb pack.

• Rear
â—‹ 225psi
â—‹ Rebound - 12 clicks CW from open
â—‹ Compression - middle setting

• Front
â—‹ 110 psi
â—‹ LSR - 13 CW
â—‹ HSR - 5 CW
â—‹ HSC (blue) - 2 CW
â—‹ LSC (black) - 5 CW

I haven't bottomed out the fork much and am thinking about dropping some pressure out of that, though it's felt good and I'm also tempted to not screw with it and know I have some reserve.
Based on my (and other's) experience, you may want to try to lower the fork pressure to match the chart with lower values posted above.

You can always go back. Keep in mind you may need to speed up rebound and slow-down compression.
 
#111 ·
Hello, I’m a former Yeti SB130 owner who is going to buy a 2020 Pivot Switchblade. I sold my Yeti because I was really angry with Yeti’s decision to remove the words: “The Tribe” from their company literature. This was a terrible decision Yeti made because it destroyed the soul of the company. Before I sold my bike, I looked again at the beautiful owners manual they included with my SB130. In the manual, they proudly declare me to be a new member of “The Tribe” and go on to list my responsibilities as a tribe member. I’ll never forget how captivated and excited I was when I first read that manual. I felt really special to be a member of such an elite group! Now, whenever I think of Yeti; I feel nothing but disgust and contempt.

I posted this because I hope that Pivot Bikes will stand up for themselves and not become a victim of political correctness as Yeti has. Remember, if you stand for nothing, you can fall for anything!!!
 
#119 ·
Hello, I'm a former Yeti SB130 owner who is going to buy a 2020 Pivot Switchblade. I sold my Yeti because I was really angry with Yeti's decision to remove the words: "The Tribe" from their company literature. This was a terrible decision Yeti made because it destroyed the soul of the company. Before I sold my bike, I looked again at the beautiful owners manual they included with my SB130. In the manual, they proudly declare me to be a new member of "The Tribe" and go on to list my responsibilities as a tribe member. I'll never forget how captivated and excited I was when I first read that manual. I felt really special to be a member of such an elite group! Now, whenever I think of Yeti; I feel nothing but disgust and contempt.

I posted this because I hope that Pivot Bikes will stand up for themselves and not become a victim of political correctness as Yeti has. Remember, if you stand for nothing, you can fall for anything!!!
The tribe thing always turned me off. It has nothing to do with Native Americans. People who aggregate because of Harleys, Airstreams, Ford, Ferrari, etc make me uncomfortable. However, Steeler fans are noticeably superior to others.

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#126 ·
Dang, I am not sure how I am going to make it... Looks like I can count it as a Christmas present, haha. Ordered a week ago and they said 60-90 days. Was hoping people were getting them earlier then that, either way stoked to be joining the Pivot family. Coming from a 2015 Giant Trance so it should be a bit of an upgrade.
 
#128 ·
We'll have SRAM kits back in stock much sooner than Shimano, but we're still waiting on forks, saddles, and various other parts.

The best source of when your bike will be delivered will be your dealer. They know exactly how much they have on order with us and estimated ship dates of everything. When people email me and ask when their bike will arrive, I honestly have no idea. If your dealer happened to order one for stock in your model/size/color/build, it could be on it's way. If your dealer has not yet ordered with us and needs something very specific, it could be a very long time. It could also be anywhere in between those extremes depending on a hundred different variables.

JP