I have the xt 2x10 build and love everything except one complaint. Can't get the front der as low as I would like. Don't care for this style of mount. Chain starts to rub on the bottom of the front der cage when in the small front ring and middle of cassette or smaller cogs. Anyone know of a mod or better front der? I'm sure running more sag or going to the big ring sooner would do away with the issue, just would prefer to lower the der if possible. Not sure how folks would get away with a 22t granny on this set up if they wanted it.
2014 Rip9 front der question
bluewave
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I have the xt 2x10 build and love everything except one complaint. Can't get the front der as low as I would like. Don't care for this style of mount. Chain starts to rub on the bottom of the front der cage when in the small front ring and middle of cassette or smaller cogs. Anyone know of a mod or better front der? I'm sure running more sag or going to the big ring sooner would do away with the issue, just would prefer to lower the der if possible. Not sure how folks would get away with a 22t granny on this set up if they wanted it.
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1st up, This can only be checked when ridding.
I have not played with the Shimano, But with Sram you have to buy the right deraillieur for the chain ring sizes you are running.
I have not played with the Shimano, But with Sram you have to buy the right deraillieur for the chain ring sizes you are running.
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Seconded. This is provably your first full suspension, congrats BTW, they are designed to shift correctly at sag. That typically means they rub in the stand.
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I think some more info is needed. I purchased the 3-star build. 2x10 XT. The ring setup is 26/38 and there is no rub. I believe the FD is the M785-E2.
It seems like what Muzzanic stated is true for Sram is also true of Shimano. The FD PDF indicates a 12 tooth span for the E2. If running a 40T big gear, the smallest little gear would be 28. If running a 38T then you could go down to 26T. A 24T or 22T looks to extend beyond the recommended range so this would like be difficult to setup. with no rub.
Can I ask what size you have? I have the Alloy 3 star in Large. Maybe I just run way less sag than most. I'm 240lbs in gear and run about 210lbs in the shock. I read somewhere yesterday I should be closer to 2/3rds of my riding weight, so maybe I will try 160lbs in the shock, that should give the chain lots of breathing room, just not sure yet if I will like the ride.
Thanks for all the responses.
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206 Posts
I too have the 2014 Rip9 with 2x10 XT Large, 240lbs geared up. I just switched from a 26t low to a 24t low. In the stand yes the chain rubbed on the bottom of the derailleur. when Riding I don't notice it at all. I have about 170lbs in my rear shock
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105 Posts
I have a medium. I weigh about 175 + gear. I'm guessing 185 fully loaded. I run 165lbs in my rear shock. My sag is in the 25% range.
I've never noticed the chain rubbing the FD but I normally stop 2 cogs from the smallest rear ring. I built the bike up myself so I tested all shifting with no compression on the rear. I can take a look tonight to see if small ring - small ring rubs.
Shiftless,
Thanks for the feedback. Can I ask what ring you purchased? I too would like to change out the 26 for a 24. How does it shift with the 38 big ring? Or did you change the big ring as well?
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206 Posts
Bluewave I used the Shimano XT FCM785 in 24t, it works very well with the 38t. This crank is available from the factory in a 38/26 38/24 configuration. I had to do zero adjustments to the derailleur. Note you will need a T30 torx bit to change the rings
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Two things to note here. 1) The medium cage will be stretched further past it's rating. Be careful about shift combos. 2) While the crank is compatible as stated, my understanding is that the rings are different. The 38 used with the 26 has different shift assist than the 38 used with the 24. It may well work but it may not work as well.
I too considered the 24 up front. I spent more time than I should have researching options. I don't believe any combination will shift was well as the 38/26 but there may be a couple of configurations that get close. The best/safest option may be to consider a manufacturer who produces 36/24 rings with the appropriate shift step ups. This will keep the medium cage in the same range as the 38/26 however it will not help with the FD rub.
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. I have several rides in on the 24t and it shifts flawless with no perceptible differences in shifting compared to the 26t. no derailleur rubbing during riding. rear derailleur alignment is spot on. The rub only occurs in the stand with the bike un-weighted.
I did look at the Shimano link and it does suggest a different part number on the 38/26 vs 38/24. but seat of the pants and real world experience with Shimano over 25 years tell me it is and will work just fine. Also the 26 and 24 have no shift ramps they are straight cut
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105 Posts
Hey Shiftless, wasn't trying to go against what you were saying, I was only trying to present the complete picture. I'm a bit crazy when it comes to researching and having things just so...
The capacity of the GS cage is 35T. Our bike capacity: (38-26)+(36-11)=37T. Given that the default configuration exceeds the recommended capacity, pushing it to 39T can only increase the chance of early wear, chain drops, and chain slap. The likelihood of cross chaining is further increased given that default XT shifter's don't have shift indicators and looking back at the rear cassette can be hazardous.
I did not want to compromise shift response on the FD, chain slap, or drop potential, therefor increasing the capacity left me uneasy. I looked into purchasing a shift matched 36/24T. I contacted Race Face's technical support. To their credit, they responded with a very honest answer. They stated that they will work but not quite as well as the Shimano on Shimano. Perhaps this is a better option given that chain tension and thus slap & drop will be minimized.
The end of this story sounds like this. Yes there are several configurations that will "work". However, work is somewhat a subjective term. If you are pushing your riding limits, hitting a bike park here and there, sending some gaps 10+ feet, taking the extra rough line on the local trail, you will notice a drastic up-tick on chain drops when in the 26T ring. Compromising any hardware performance becomes a very unappealing option.
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206 Posts
Highlander - when it comes to a sport we are passionate about we are all a bit crazy in our own way. Your post didn't take anything away from mine, just another perspective. More power to your detailed analytic processes, I don't have that much time or energy for paperwork.
If you are worried about chain-slap, drops and such created by bike park riding and gap jumping you should really consider a 1x10 1x11 drive train with a custom rear cassette or add a chain guide and a clutch type rear derailleur. Also after the first 5 years or so of my 25+ years riding MTB I stopped looking at my gears and indicators. Looking at them takes my eyes off the trail. - totally seat of the pants now
But back to the 24/26 tooth issue I rode another 20+ miles yesterday on my commute work/home (concrete Road, offroad climb- cat 4, fast rocky down hill, hike a bike section, technical single track ) and it worked flawless. 2x10 38/24=> 11/36
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105 Posts
@ bluewave - I took some time to spin my bike in the stand. Using a 26 tooth front, gears 10, 9, 8 all rub the FD. Gear 10 looks to rub slightly on the side as well as bottom. On a medium frame, with sag at 25%, there is no rub from gear 9 and up. Gears 9 & 10 produce a very angled chain line. I've gotten into the habit of moving to the big ring as quickly as possible which usually happens once I pass gear 3.
@ shiftless89 - I'm in the 40+ crowd myself. I've been riding bikes and motorcross for over 30 years, MTBing for 20 (serious mountain biking for the last 5). With my original grip shift and XT (9 speed) shift indicators, I did not have to take my eye's off the trail. My peripheral vision picked up on gearing. Over the past year riding without shift indicators has become a bit easier. I find myself doing a quick spin to gauge the gear. New equipment is much better at hitting the entire gear range which has helped but knowing where your at was added assurance.
Thoughts on 2x and a 29" wheel:
This 26/36 gearing is a big jump. Each revolution pushes some 65.8" in linear distance. For comparison, a 26" wheel with a 3x setup would often see 22/32 for granny. Each revolution pushes 56.2". That's a 17% increase.
This year have I worked up the leg strength to push 26/36 (65.8" per rev) vs my previous 22/36 (55.7" per rev). It took me a full year of leg press / squats at the gym, running, and biking (MTB and road), but I'm finally there. For me, this felt the best option.
I've begun riding the 38 tooth ring much more to keep the chain from dropping and slapping. Perhaps the 'best' option for a 2x is a 24/36 combination. The 24 would be ready for once your tired and the 36 would run the rear cassette from 3-10. I believe the FD rub would be a non factor if you only used the first couple of rear gears even in the stand.
@ shiftless89 - I'm in the 40+ crowd myself. I've been riding bikes and motorcross for over 30 years, MTBing for 20 (serious mountain biking for the last 5). With my original grip shift and XT (9 speed) shift indicators, I did not have to take my eye's off the trail. My peripheral vision picked up on gearing. Over the past year riding without shift indicators has become a bit easier. I find myself doing a quick spin to gauge the gear. New equipment is much better at hitting the entire gear range which has helped but knowing where your at was added assurance.
Thoughts on 2x and a 29" wheel:
This 26/36 gearing is a big jump. Each revolution pushes some 65.8" in linear distance. For comparison, a 26" wheel with a 3x setup would often see 22/32 for granny. Each revolution pushes 56.2". That's a 17% increase.
This year have I worked up the leg strength to push 26/36 (65.8" per rev) vs my previous 22/36 (55.7" per rev). It took me a full year of leg press / squats at the gym, running, and biking (MTB and road), but I'm finally there. For me, this felt the best option.
I've begun riding the 38 tooth ring much more to keep the chain from dropping and slapping. Perhaps the 'best' option for a 2x is a 24/36 combination. The 24 would be ready for once your tired and the 36 would run the rear cassette from 3-10. I believe the FD rub would be a non factor if you only used the first couple of rear gears even in the stand.
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