[Bacon Fat]

Take the arm off or are the two other bolts seized too?

 

[cobb ridge]

Use a press

 

[Taroroot]

Aluminum and steel and salty water? Have fun!

 

[Fuse6F]

sounds like you want to move that lower on the arm to fit a smaller wheel diameter???


could you not just buy a new one and mount it where you want. save hassle.

 

[J_Westy]

Take the arm off or are the two other bolts seized too?

Use a press

I agree, somehow get the whole rack of the car or the arms off so you can support the bolt head side (maybe with a socket) and hit the other side with a 3lb hammer and/or a press.

Kroil is awesome, by the way.

 

[Cotharyus]

Take that rack with moving parts off your car and get a LoLo?

 

[fly4130]

Can you make a spacer out of a piece of wood to keep the two arms from moving, or at least moving together, when you give it a whack with the hammer? You have to be able to put your body or something against the stuck arm to counter the force. And/or perhaps put a strap wrench on the spacer to see if you can twist it some more to break it free. This may be a multi-day, mille-MFer project.

 

[fredcook]

sounds like you want to move that lower on the arm to fit a smaller wheel diameter???

could you not just buy a new one and mount it where you want. save hassle.

I was thinking this as well.

jonshonda, it sounds like you actually got the nut off, but can't get the bolt out of the spacer. Have you tried rotating the spacer with a tight grip using, maybe, Vice-Grips? The spacers aren't threaded, so you can twist it both ways. I'd also try a gear puller (9 bucks) to apply pressure the threaded site of the bolt while twisting and tapping the spacer. Unfortunately, it will likely get marred since it's aluminum.

I know you mentioned that older nuts and bolts, like on yiour vehicles, haven't fused. But most automotive mixed metal application are somewhat protected or sealed. Like steel bolts going into aluminum heads and blocks. The bolt head in those cases provide a pretty good seal. But most automotive bolting doesn't involved mixed metals, corrosion/fusing is limited, other than rust. The seal around the spacer on the 1up is not water tight, so corrosion is imminent in long term, four season exposure. If/when you get that spacer released, I'd apply some silicone to the joints as you reassemble it if you intend to leave the rack mounted year 'round.

 

[jonshonda]

sounds like you want to move that lower on the arm to fit a smaller wheel diameter???

could you not just buy a new one and mount it where you want. save hassle.

After 1up basically told me to pound sand, that is what I ended up doing. Spending more money on an already extremely expensive rack, just to make it work right again. I would have torn it up if I had tried to move it.

$0.05 work of anti seize applied from 1up would eliminate this issue. But I am guessing they did ZERO environmental testing on this, or this would have made some revisions to ensure the racks functions as intended.

It guess the only reason I posted a thread was that I don't feel like a rack that costs this much, should perform so poorly in the elements.

 

[Bacon Fat]

You are being unreasonable again
Hammering on the arm while it is flopping back and forth isn't really a good faith effort on trying to solve the issue. You won't tear it up if you do it correctly and remove the arm.

also, the directions say to Inspect hardware on Rack periodically to ensure proper working conditions.

And the replacement part is $9

 

[bingemtbr]

I leave my racks on year round because we ride year round. Had a Thule T2 go 8 years without issue, now using a Kuat NV2 for 3+ years no issues. Completely different design and engineering on both racks compared to 1up.

The one issue I did have with my Kuat was a clear coat finish detail. Kuat replaced the entire rack at no cost.

I'm in St. Louis now, but used to live in central IL. Our roads use salt in the winter.

 

[OzarkFathom]

Now that you have the parts to practice on.....
Rest the bolt head side on a pvc pipe shim sized to allow movement of the bolt.
Use a bit of Ballistol, liquid wrench, or even diesel fuel applied so gravity can work.
Drive out with a center punch.
When installing steel to aluminum interface apply a coating of oxidation inhibitor.

 

[DIRTJUNKIE]

Salted roads in Wisconsin winters can hardly be covered under a warranty of corrosion. Why so pissed at OneUp? Five good years of use and now it’s time to figure out options of removal and replacement.

 

[834905]

I just scrolled through this whole thread and didn't see the most obvious answer. That being to sell your rack and buy a truck. My tailgate pad never seizes up.

 

[OzarkFathom]

I really like my 1Up.
But this thread is a good heads up for me to No-Ox those bolts before I move North.

 

[fly4130]

Hahah the trailer for when you just don't know what the day will throw at you

I tend to take my rack off in the winter as I prefer to keep the bike inside the car (well, wagon) when the salty road spray is prevalent. Lets me auto car wash the car (wagon, wagon damnit) as well. I am fully on board with a service disassembly and a No-Ox application as well.

 

[jonshonda]

Salted roads in Wisconsin winters can hardly be covered under a warranty of corrosion. Why so pissed at OneUp? Five good years of use and now it's time to figure out options of removal and replacement.

I work at an industrial lighting manufacturer and our specialty is hazardous location lighting, our parts are aluminum and steel. We put anti seize compound on threaded parts, and they will come apart after 5 years, and LIVE in much harsher conditions then occasional salt on roads (mines, oil rigs, car washes, waste treatment plants, shipping docks).

But we engineer our products to last, that is what the customers pay for, and that is what they expect. Our products spend decades in those locations, and are still serviceable. I guess knowing there are better ways to do things is why I am frustrated.

 

[J_Westy]

I am not happy, but are my expectations of it lasting more than a few years without being corroded beyond use unreasonable? Part of the reason I bought the rack was for it's versatility and future proofing as the kids grow older and wheel sizes change.

It guess the only reason I posted a thread was that I don't feel like a rack that costs this much, should perform so poorly in the elements.

I guess knowing there are better ways to do things is why I am frustrated.

Geez, Are you this way about everything?

If you weren't such a whinger, I'd offer the take-off parts from when I put on a fat-bike kit.

Get on with it.

 

[DIRTJUNKIE]

I work at an industrial lighting manufacturer and our specialty is hazardous location lighting, our parts are aluminum and steel. We put anti seize compound on threaded parts, and they will come apart after 5 years, and LIVE in much harsher conditions then occasional salt on roads (mines, oil rigs, car washes, waste treatment plants, shipping docks).

But we engineer our products to last, that is what the customers pay for, and that is what they expect. Our products spend decades in those locations, and are still serviceable. I guess knowing there are better ways to do things is why I am frustrated.

I get it, but you also have to look at cost. If they were to go to the lengths that you suggest the outrageously priced 1Up rack would be even higher. Would you buy one if it was next to double the outrageous price they get for them now?

 

[Buffalo Soldier]

I respectfully disagree regarding value. My one up is 10 years old. East coast 4 seasons, cross country twice, all over the west including rough service roads. I had to replace parts after running into a pole - what a PITA. I had auto mechanics do it. Some bike mechanics may give it a go. Heat, impact wrench, extraction bolts. One up should use anti seize or at least tell new purchasers to do so.


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