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qhgirl

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I figured I would do a little cut and paste from another post that suggested questions to help people help me:)

What region of the country do I live in? Central Virginia
Where do I plan to ride my new bike?I have 65 acres with 3 miles of established trails (horse trails).. it is moderately hilly property dips down to a creek.. so a little bit of downhill possible.. some rocks... some logs.. some moderately tight turns.. and lots of room to carve new trails.
Are there any YouTube videos of the trails I plan to ride? nope
How much time do I plan on devoting to this hobby?would like to try to ride a few miles daily.. as my fitness and experience get back... I might branch out to riding "in public".
What is my previous cycling experience?I rode quite a bit from 1998-2002.. rode in WVA slatyfork, trails around Richmond VA and in San Jose CA.. mostly single track intermediate level.. did a little more difficult stuff.. but slower..lol I used to ride a GF Joshua F2 FS bike. Since then.. just the occasional casual bike rider
Have I participated in other hobbies, sports or activities that may give me relevant skills?I ride horses.. which isn't the same since a bike doesn't have a mind of it's own.. despite what you think after it throws you!
What are my mechanical abilities?Im a woman.. Know the difference between a wrench and a hammer, but not a real gear head.
Do I currently own a bike?Yes.. just bought a 2013 Marlin.. but not sure I am happy with it... hence this post
Do I currently own a helmet, gloves, padded shorts, proper shoes, Cyclocomputer, Finish line bike wash, Finishline brush kit, shop rags, chain lube, chain stay protector (I like Shelter), Gloves, good socks, solid tire pressure gauge, floor tire pump, on trail tire pump or cartridges, shock pump, good three way hex, mufti tool, spare bottles, cages, backpack to put all your gear in?Yes to helmet, gloves, padded shorts, proper shoes, socks tire pump, water bottle and access to tools (will walk it home for now.. if I have to..lol.. willing to buy more stuff as I need it.
Why do I want to buy a new bike?
How much research have I already done and do I have an idea of what I want?I am not too sure.. I know that it seems the sport is more compartmentalized than it was like 10 years ago.. XC DH AM..Trail.. What I want is my old bike back..lol.. (ex husband got it for his new GF..lol). I rushed in a bit and bought the marlin.. thought it would be ok.. but it seems so big and heavy compared to what I used to ride... plus brakes seem really sucky.. which isn't any good when you have technical slow picky stuff to go through... and while I think it is a decent climbing bike.. since it is a hard tail.. I am thinking a FS with lockout might be nicer on my aging joints. I am trying to soldier through riding the Marlin because I am obviously out of shape.. and I know a fancy bike isn't going to "fix" that.. but I still get that feeling that the bike isn't all that good of a fit for me. Maybe I should ride for a few more months on that.. then try something better.. but I am afraid that I will get turned off by riding a bike I am not in love with.
Do I have friends who are into the hobby? What's their mechanical and riding experience?
What kind of bikes do my riding buddies ride? Not riding with anyone.. just the dog..
What kind of bikes do I see on the trails I plan to ride? (Full suspension, hardtail, rigid, single speed, geared)None
Can I really afford this hobby? Are my credit cards paid off? Do I have savings in the bank and money to burn?Money not to burn.. but if I invest in something "decent".. it will be more of a motivator to use it... and a crappy bike will not make me want to ride as much.. if at all!
How much money do I want to spend on this hobby over the next year? Not sure.. but if my hubby can spend 2500 on guns last week.. I can afford to spend a little.. besides being in shape has all sorts of benefits.. including financial.. and longer life.. and ability to enjoy more things.. so it is "cheaper" than jenny craig and a gym right? I won't spend 3-4K on a bike.. but maybe up to 2K.. if one totally lit up my world.. but if I spend that much.. maybe I should be in better shape to see what my "real fitness -fit is?"
What am I trying to accomplish by participating in this hobby?Get Fit, be outside, Refine Balance and Coordination
How do I expect my life to be different a year from the day my new bike arrives? I expect to be in better shape and to have some singletrack added to my property.

A little about me.. 46 yo female.. no physical limitations other than some extra pounds.. five foot 3-4.. strong legs.. weak upper body.. not a "fast/aggressive" riding style.. but like to go medium hard. (don't have good depth perception.. so going too hard/fast puts me in the trees..lmao)
 
Fitness, comfort, 2k budget, 5-4, 90s geometry, full suspension, know how to use an allen wrench:

Sette Derro 2.0 SLX Dual Suspension 4inch Mountain Bike at Price Point

There's one for $100 more with a little better component group, but unnecessary for your goals.

There are several threads focused on this bike - here is one excerpt: http://forums.mtbr.com/9460063-post10.html

That bike is the best value full suspension bike for under 2k. If you can deal with minor assembly or take it to a shop for assembly, you'll be hard pressed to find a better value.
 
I would go back to the shop you bought the Marlin from and talk to them about what you're feeling. Did you try any 26" wheeled bikes while you were shopping? I don't think that full suspension is necessarily the path forward if your current bike is feeling heavy and cumbersome but it certainly could be an option. I tend to find any 29" wheeled bike to be a bit less responsive which is a tradeoff for the ability to roll over things more easily; perhaps this is contributing to what you are feeling.

Are you sure that the bike fits you properly including any modifications needed to put you in a comfortable and suitable riding position? This would be my starting point; making sure that the bike fits you as well as it can. If the bike is fit properly and you still feel "off" while riding it, then it's most likely a mismatch between you and that bike.

I really think the most important part of picking a bike is choosing one that fits well and feels good when riding it. Bikes like that Sette are fantastic deals if they fit, but unless you know how to read a geometry table and relate that to your body and the way the bike will fit with your body then it's a crap shoot. Sure, most people will be happy with a bike like that, but if you already have some concerns with the way a bicycle you've purchased is performing then I couldn't recommend you buy without riding.

If you can, find a shop that will let you demo a bike on dirt before you buy. You can also keep an eye out for touring factory demo trucks which bring their fleets of bikes around the country to let people ride them on dirt (or road depending) and really see how the bikes perform. It is a bit late in the season for demo trucks to be widespread, but some shops also keep demo bikes of certain models available to take out.

Full suspension might make you feel more at home when comparing it to your old bike, but I suspect that much of the difference is in the wheel size. 29ers are a different animal, many people love them some people don't (I don't). When it comes to rear lockout, I never used mine. The rear suspension works to give you better traction and climbing ability when you are on trail. The only time I ever miss it is on long grinding fire roads or glass smooth uphill trails, and even then I only miss it a little.
 
First off....welcome back! Zebra is spot on with the advice for sure.

It might work in your favor to be asking these questions now as this can be a good time of year to be looking at new bikes. The model year has just flipped so 2012 bikes should get a good discount. And if your bike shops also handle winter sports there's extra motivation to move bikes off the floor.

I expect that the 29er Marlin doesnt suit you well for two reasons; first, 29ers and smaller riders don't get on well ( designing a small frame with big wheels is a big challenge for any bike maker). Second, 29ers hold their momentum/speed well, but don't accelerate well. If your home trail requires you to put in a lot of quick bursts a 26er is a much better choice.

Good news is that when you get on the right bike now you'll forget all about that GaryFisher Joshua (which by most standards today was an awful bike no matter how much you loved it then). Since you are probably going back to the Trek dealer I'd think the Fuel EX might be more to your liking. They make a womens specific version I think, but don't be convinced that you need that. My wife rides a womens specific bike( from specialized), my friends wife prefered the fit of the standard version of the same bike. If you can push far enough with your budget I always think getting better suspension is money well spent. I never spend extra to get better shifting or brakes, but I'll gladly shell out an extra $200 to get a Fox fork.( not everyone will agree with my opinion on this)

If you can swing it hang onto the Marlin. Riding a hardtail for a bit will help you develope some good riding techniques and get you to move around above the bike rather than being stuck to the saddle.

Happy riding....K.
 
Let's see what's not working with your Marlin.
!. Suntour XCM fork. This is a heavy low quality component without the adjustable rebound damping you need for trails. It is likely to have a spring appropriate for a 175lb rider. You could replace this 5lb unit with a RockShox Reba from Bluesky for 350. This would improve your ride comfort, control and confidence for all trails.
2. Stock wheels. Heavy and the front especially affects climbing, turning and fork response. A light front hub with changeable end caps(Dt,3.03), light double butted spokes like DtSwiss SuperComps and a light strong rim like an ArchEx is the answer. 700-800g
3. Tires- High volume, light, fast rolling, grippy tires like Schwalbe Racing Ralph Performance run at 20-23psi on the front and 25 at the rear add compliance as well as performance.

This would be a $600+ investment that would give you a "new" bike because of the changes to the front end and dropping about 2.5lbs.

An alternative HT-- Scott Scale 930 in small. The same as the carbon Expert of last year. The rear compliance from the seat stay design is a comfort benefit. It's also light at 23.5lbs. 2500 would be a good price. The fork offered on the 2012 version is a better choice if you can find one. The 2012 bike would also be cheaper.

One Pivot has the wheelset you need.--
".I have a arch ex 29er wheelset I need to get rid of for a ridiculous price. Pm me!"
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
What about this?

What about a used Trek FUEL EX5 WSD from 2007?

Frameset
Sizes Women's 14, 16, 18"
Frame Alpha SLR Aluminum main frame w/100mm travel
Front Suspension RockShox Tora 289 U-Turn w/travel, rebound, 85-130mm
Rear Shock RockShox BAR 1.1 w/air pressure
Wheels
Wheels Shimano M475 disc hubs; Bontrager Ranger rims
Tires Bontrager Jones XR 26x2.2/2.25", 27 tpi
Drivetrain
Shifters SRAM X-5, 9 speed
Front Derailleur Shimano Deore
Rear Derailleur SRAM X-5
Crank Shimano M442 44/32/22
Cassette SRAM PG950 11-34, 9 speed
Pedals Alloy platform w/clips and straps
Components
Saddle Bontrager Select FIT
Seat Post Bontrager Sport
Handlebars Bontrager Crowbar Sport, 25mm rise
Stem Bontrager Sport, 10 degree
Headset Aheadset Slimstak w/semi-cartridge bearings, sealed
Brakeset Avid BB-5, mechanical disc w/alloy levers

I found this bike on a local craigslist. They say it has a new sprocket and chain and are asking around 500 dollars. It is a Womens specific EX5 in a size 16 frame. When I spoke with the guy at the shop where I purchased my Marlin, he advised I would be a Medium frame in a women's model. I am assuming that is what a 16 inch frame would be. This is a 2007 model, but it is full suspension and would be a bike that msrped close to 1900 dollars in this model year. Does this sound like a decent deal? While the components are older.. it was garage kept and seems to be in really good condition. Assuming I can convince my husband that two bikes for one butt isn't a waste of money, It might be a decent full suspension way in without spending a pile of money? What are yall's thoughts?

Obviously, I would be able to try it for size and actually sit on it. That is a big advantage for me because I am a little nervous about putting a pile of money into something before I can try it. That is why I was averse to the bike shop special ordering something. I did not want to commit and felt stuck buying something on the floor, so to speak. I also think I got a little of that typical "oh how cute, this nice little middle aged lady thinks she wants to mountain bike... let's put her on something and shoot her out the door. She won't ever ride it, so it doesn't really matter if we don't put much effort into finding her the right bike."

I really do appreciate all the comments and it sounds like replacing some components could help, but maybe this other bike would give me a chance to get back FS (my knees and ankles will love me for it).
 
Don't get ahead of yourself.

One of the things riders new (or returning after a long while) to the sport can hopefully get out of their bikes is figuring out what they're looking for. I think it's worth getting the Marlin as dialed as it's going to be. I don't know if I'd recommend replacing the fork or the wheels. While the fork's not doing you any favors and the hubs are pretty disposable, it's fairly expensive to replace either, and you still can replace almost every other component on that bike to some advantage.

So unless you can return that bike and get your entire initial cost back out of it, here's what I think you should do:

  • -Get the fit on the Marlin dialed in. Often that'll mean changes like a different stem, different saddle (is the saddle bothering you, btw?) and sometimes different bars. The bike shouldn't hurt you, and the grips should be located wherever is best for you.
  • -Get some tires that you like. The ones on there now are for riding on the street and stuff like fire roads, chipseal, crushed limestone, etc. I have a bit of a bias - their name's on my jersey - but I like the Schwalbe Rocket Ron a lot. Get the 2.25" version. I have 26" wheels, not sure how much of a difference that makes. IMO, it's better to have a full knobby for someone starting out. If you get into competing later, you can figure out your own compromise. Figure out "your" tire pressure. The conventional wisdom, and I mostly agree, is that the lowest pressure that doesn't pinch flat is the best pressure. For reference, I weigh 160 lb right now and do 22.5 front/25 back. Rider weight's a big factor in tire pressure.
  • -Get some pedals you like. This is huge! I don't have a terribly strong opinion about clipless vs. flats. I think they're both good options. Just not the nylon test-ride pedals that come on most bikes. I think if you're stopping and starting and putting a foot down a lot, flats are easier to get started on. Their fans recommend flat-pedal-specific cycling shoes to go with them.

The shop may or may not be able to help you with fit in a useful way. Here's a resource on fitting that I like, either as a second opinion or as a guide to doing it yourself if you don't want to go back to the shop.
How to Fit a Bicycle
I'd add that for mountain biking, I like a little more conservative handlebar position than I do for road riding. Both a little higher and a little closer. Too much reach really hammers on my lower back.

At this point, you won't have spent too much on the bike, although tires can certainly be expensive. I get my stems from a used shop, a lot. Failing that, I get the inexpensive Dimension stem that almost all bike shops carry. I've also bought them from Nashbar. For me, different stem sizes are frequently experiments, so I don't like to spend a ton. Flat pedals are all over the map on price. I have some $15 Redline Alloy pedals that do okay, although I suspect that if I rode flats full-time, I'd probably want something nicer. If you do clipless, don't be a cheapskate about shoes. Buy locally, so you can try on a few pairs, and don't waste your time on things with an SRP under $100. Even running shoes cost over $100 and cycling shoes last longer, so this isn't a terrible price...

This bike may back you into buying another bike in the next year. But IMO, since you've got a bike in hand now, you're best off getting it set up as well as you can and riding it for a while. Craig's List isn't going anywhere, even if the specific bikes available will change. '12 bikes are only getting cheaper from here on out.
 
What about a used Trek FUEL EX5 WSD from 2007?
The only thing that matters is that you like riding the bike. Give it a try, make sure it fits and works properly and buy it if you like it more than your Marlin.

I will caution that full suspension bikes are prone to issues related to longevity. Cracks, bad bearings, and much more maintenance are all parts of owning a full suspension bike and if the prior owner hasn't kept up with it or hasn't noticed an issue then you're the one who suffers. As a second owner, you will not qualify for warranty on the frame so remember that. And the fact that the owner has replaced the cassette and chain (but not specified that the chainrings were replaced or not) then you might be looking at instant investment to bring it up to working order.

Let's say that you test ride the bike and you really like it; ask the seller if you can take it to a bike shop and have them do a quick check-over to assess the mechanical order of the thing. I'd give a shop a call ahead of time and ask them if they would do that and how much it might cost; the money you save in checking it over could save you hundreds down the line.
 
I say take the Marlin back tot the shop and tell them you hate it. Try to get a full refund or store credit. if they won't give it to you, call Trek and they'll them you hate it. I'm sure they will figure out a way to make you happy.
 
The only thing that matters is that you like riding the bike. Give it a try, make sure it fits and works properly and buy it if you like it more than your Marlin.

I will caution that full suspension bikes are prone to issues related to longevity. Cracks, bad bearings, and much more maintenance are all parts of owning a full suspension bike and if the prior owner hasn't kept up with it or hasn't noticed an issue then you're the one who suffers. As a second owner, you will not qualify for warranty on the frame so remember that. And the fact that the owner has replaced the cassette and chain (but not specified that the chainrings were replaced or not) then you might be looking at instant investment to bring it up to working order.

Let's say that you test ride the bike and you really like it; ask the seller if you can take it to a bike shop and have them do a quick check-over to assess the mechanical order of the thing. I'd give a shop a call ahead of time and ask them if they would do that and how much it might cost; the money you save in checking it over could save you hundreds down the line.
All of this^^^:thumbsup:

Also know going in that suspension components are suspect after sitting so you might need a rebuild before too long( new seals and fresh oil.... not crazy money, but be aware). Tires will also almost certainly be toast as well ( probably $60-100...always buy nice tires)

If you feel that the shop guys stuck you on a bike rather than really try to find what you need:madman: you should absolutely go find a new shop. The quality of the shop you're dealling with makes a huge difference.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I really appreciate all the advice.. I think I am going to try to ride what I have for the moment. I have a 30-60 day tune up certificate and plan on making them help me more with bike fit at that time if I haven't been able to figure out adjustments on my own. I think I owe them an opportunity to provide the kind of service and advice that going to a "real" bike shop should provide. It will give me more time to get used to the bike and I may find that the things that bother me go away as I get stronger.

Surprisingly, the seat really isn't that big of an issue.. I tend to not really "sit" on it.. more use it for balance.. I ride more out of the saddle than in so while I have a little soreness.. it's not as bad as when I try to ride a plain old recreation bike around where you are meant to sit there steadily.

I also really appreciate the advice on the CL bike..because yes.. CL will be there.. in fact that bike has been listed there since early September.. so obviously not a super big market for it. This is where having fewer women in the sport sucks. The manufacturers don't cater to women very much and there aren't a lot of used bikes out there at higher prices because relatively fewer are sold. I also think that to a certain extent, guys are more comfortable paying a lot for hobby equipment for themselves. I think women tend to make smaller purchases more often (shoes).

The bike could definitely "loose some weight." However, I am sure that when I lose some weight, some of the issues may dissapear too. No sense in obsessing over 5 pounds when I could lose 20 and as my fitness improves, I may find the bike and I are more compatible. It is probably a mistake to try to compare the way I ride the Marlin to the way I remember riding my old bike. That was a decade ago and I am remembering how I rode after owning the bike for a couple of years.. not the first month.
 
I'm glad you're keeping the bike for now. Better to spend money on one bike you don't like (or better yet, one bike you do like once you get it dialed) than two bikes you don't like. Given a little more time, I think you'll really better your chances of nailing it on the second bike, if you still want one down the road.

I'm of two minds about WSD bikes. On the one hand, the statistics aren't supposed to support the assertion that women have relatively longer legs than torsos, compared to men. On the other hand, I think that women articulate their bikes a little differently in a way that means they tend to have a shorter reach, relative to how tall they are, than a man would. Since I'm just some guy with a few theories, I can't collect data to support this. Or at least, it's not worth it to me to hunt it down if it already exists. At the end of the day, most WSD bikes just have a shorter top tube for their size, so unless you can't get your grips high enough on the unisex bike with "your" top tube, an acceptable spacer stack, a high-angle stem and risers, IMHO, you don't need WSD. Since some people believe in it, all the companies have to do it now to compete. Bottom line is that I wouldn't let the WSD vs. unisex badging make my decision, but if I was looking for a particularly long-and-low or a particularly long-head tubed bike, I think it could help me narrow the group of possible bikes.

Anyway, I think mountain bikers should learn to fit their own bikes. It's helpful to have some help the first time, but your recollection of how it felt to ride your old bike puts you a little ahead. Fitting for a person's fitness isn't so hard to do inside, on a trainer, but fitting for good handling is a little trickier and XC MTB fit is a compromise. With time and correct saddle positioning, I bet you spend a little more time on it... but if it ain't broke, why fight it?

FWIW, I noticed a lighter fork and I think it had a lasting effect on my riding. Probably about a 3 lb swing in weight in a relatively concentrated area, pretty far from my hips - I went from an RST Capa to a Manitou R7. I noticed lighter wheels, but the effect is much more subtle. Certainly it's minor enough that running less pressure at the cost of heavier tires has been worth it for me. I've also noticed having a stiffer fork. Other changes in weight/stiffness/whatever on my bike I really haven't been able to feel. I don't own a precise enough scale to have great numbers for any of the changes, so take this as such. My theory on bike weight is that since I weigh 160 lb, I'm not going to notice a pound or two or three in terms of system weight when I climb a hill or something, and quantitatively, it probably effects my times less than my mood does. But I do feel (or think I feel, anyway, since I know when I've changed something on my bike I'm not a great test subject) changes in handling, which I think improves with lighter weight and stiffer components.

Anyway, good luck! I think that riding with other people makes things a lot more fun, so look for a club once you're a little comfortable on the bike. Or even before - my club does a lot of new rider education stuff, and I think a lot of it is even free.
 
Trek EX5 2007 is not a very good bike. Trek started making some decent FS models in 2008.
Now most of their FS are pretty good.

2 things you have working against you buying used bike. One, size, small and XS are harder to come by than med and large. Two, women specific designs, regardless of the kind of sports, women who buy the products usually do not sell them even they don't use it.

Stick with your bike for now and try to demo the bikes when you can and decide from there. In the mean time it would be helpful if you can take note of what you like/dislike on your current bike and what improvement you want to see.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Just a quick update.. I did go back to the store (actually, different branch, same store) and tried to talk to one of the salesmen there. I went in and said that I was not too happy with the bike. I told him it felt akward, cumbersome and heavy. I wanted to see if he could help me figure out some changes I could make. Now, I will be honest, I didn't lug my bike in there, but figure that they have several versions of the same bike frame/wheel size set up (marlin, cobia etc..) so maybe there was something he could suggest in the way of stem/fork/handlebars etc... He basically told me "the bike is what it is.. the seat is on rails.. maybe we could move it forward a little." I guess since I wasn't in there to buy a new bike from him.. he really didn't want to waste any time on me. I specifically told him I was interested in possibly finding out about some different components I could buy to make the bike work better, but he didn't seem to want to help me. He said that they didn't have any marlins in stock in my size so he really couldn't help me. I didn't bother to point out, for the second time, that there are other trek bikes with basically the same geometry frame and wheel size, so he should have been able to at least look at me on the bike to give me some pointers other than moving the seat. I had already told him that the handlebars seemed to have my shoulders akward and too wide and moving the seat forward wouldn't help because I can barely stand over the center bar flat footed as it is. If I move the seat forward, I won't be able to do that any more.

He asked why I got the 29er when I probably should have gotten the 26 and I told him the other salesperson told me that since 29ers are the "new hotness" that the manufacturers aren't putting any decent set ups together in 26 wheels. He said..."Oh, that's not exactly true."

So I feel a little non-plussed by the whole situation. Obviously, my LBS doesn't really care that I am not all that psyched over the bike I bought from them. I feel like I either get to be "that customer" that is a royal pain in the tail, or just suck it up and ride my rolling brick (it actually rolls well.. )

I am sure my negative feelings have also been magnified by the fact that my bike got a flat front tire on the 5th ride.
 
Just a quick update.. I did go back to the store (actually, different branch, same store) and tried to talk to one of the salesmen there. I went in and said that I was not too happy with the bike. I told him it felt akward, cumbersome and heavy. I wanted to see if he could help me figure out some changes I could make. Now, I will be honest, I didn't lug my bike in there, but figure that they have several versions of the same bike frame/wheel size set up (marlin, cobia etc..) so maybe there was something he could suggest in the way of stem/fork/handlebars etc... He basically told me "the bike is what it is.. the seat is on rails.. maybe we could move it forward a little." I guess since I wasn't in there to buy a new bike from him.. he really didn't want to waste any time on me. I specifically told him I was interested in possibly finding out about some different components I could buy to make the bike work better, but he didn't seem to want to help me. He said that they didn't have any marlins in stock in my size so he really couldn't help me. I didn't bother to point out, for the second time, that there are other trek bikes with basically the same geometry frame and wheel size, so he should have been able to at least look at me on the bike to give me some pointers other than moving the seat. I had already told him that the handlebars seemed to have my shoulders akward and too wide and moving the seat forward wouldn't help because I can barely stand over the center bar flat footed as it is. If I move the seat forward, I won't be able to do that any more.

He asked why I got the 29er when I probably should have gotten the 26 and I told him the other salesperson told me that since 29ers are the "new hotness" that the manufacturers aren't putting any decent set ups together in 26 wheels. He said..."Oh, that's not exactly true."

So I feel a little non-plussed by the whole situation. Obviously, my LBS doesn't really care that I am not all that psyched over the bike I bought from them. I feel like I either get to be "that customer" that is a royal pain in the tail, or just suck it up and ride my rolling brick (it actually rolls well.. )

I am sure my negative feelings have also been magnified by the fact that my bike got a flat front tire on the 5th ride.
I'd get the owner on the phone and tell them what's been going on. No matter what the outcome, it's time to find a different shop.

Oh and flat tires happen, all the time, to everyone. There are some threads going on around here talking about how some people get 5 flats every ride. An easy fix would be to run "ghetto tubeless" on whatever solution you come up with for your bike.
 
Absolutely call the owner of the shop about these guys. Every good shop out there will help you become addicted to the sport. It should be their plan to get you good and comfortable on the bike, putting you on the path of wearing it out, and then providing you with your next, better bike( and an overflowing source for shiny upgrades) Bikeshops make their best money from habitual users.

You could have a couple of pictures taken of you on the bike. Two side shots (one with the pedals at 9 and 3 o'clock, another at 12 and 6), and one from the front would tell a lot about the fit. Probably posting them at womens' forum would be best.

If the bars are too wide, it's easy to cut them down. A plumbers pipe cutter works great, but a hacksaw with a $.50 pipe clamp will do it. Move the brake levers and shifters in on the bar on both sides and ride around the driveway a bit. Use ribber bands to mark where you determine the grips should end up. Make your measurements ( leave an extra 1/2 inch on each end just in case...you can always cut them again later) and cut.

Did the sales rep actually say " new hottness" about the bike? 'cause that's kinda funny
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
I may have taken some liberties with his exact words.. but he basically said that 26ers were crap because 29'ers were the current popular style.. so they didn't waste any time on the 26ers.
 
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