The Formula R1's on my Specialized Epic Carbon Expert squeal and wine too much. How do I shut them up? Change the pads? Change the rotors? Which ones do you recommend I use? Help! They're driving me crazy.
Help! Formula R1's sqealing....
sbermhb
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Theres always starting over by sanding, cleaning with alcohol and rebleeding the brakes.
Next, with all of the above done, again, organics always help.
And if that doesnt do the trick, the last thing you can do is use Squeelout. Pretty good stuff! Works well on a set of avid7s I have.
Next, with all of the above done, again, organics always help.
And if that doesnt do the trick, the last thing you can do is use Squeelout. Pretty good stuff! Works well on a set of avid7s I have.
All of what Cdubb said and add torque all bolts to spec. I'm not sure about he bleed helping the squeel, but it sure could not hurt.
I've never tried the Squeelout, but it seems to have success with Avids.
Going to sintered pads could quiet things down. I think the R1 comes stock with Al backed organics. You can try the std backed sintered. Now keep in mind with sintered, they work better and are quieter hot. So, ofter a long DH stretch then cooling, they'll make a bit of noise on that first grab until they heat up again.
The last thing I would do is replace the rotors because of the cost. The older style Oro rotors will be quiter, but weigh a tad more. The HS rotors from Avid were also quiet. I will say I only ran the HS rotor on one ride, but it had some long DH.
I've never tried the Squeelout, but it seems to have success with Avids.
Going to sintered pads could quiet things down. I think the R1 comes stock with Al backed organics. You can try the std backed sintered. Now keep in mind with sintered, they work better and are quieter hot. So, ofter a long DH stretch then cooling, they'll make a bit of noise on that first grab until they heat up again.
The last thing I would do is replace the rotors because of the cost. The older style Oro rotors will be quiter, but weigh a tad more. The HS rotors from Avid were also quiet. I will say I only ran the HS rotor on one ride, but it had some long DH.
Don't mistake maintenance
for bad performance. Shimano's are excellent brakes. Formula brakes are the bomb.
There is nothing on your bike that undergo's more temperature extremes than brakes. Therefore brakes make noise and need maintenance.
Well maintained Formula brakes, (like my four year old 'Ones'), work perfect, modulate better than anything with the same stopping power, don't squeak and they stop with one finger pull.
I replace my fluid about every year and a half. I change the rotors when I can no longer bend them to straight. Pads are like politicians, they should be changed often and for the same reason, (if you ride your bike and don't spend all your time on bike forums : )
Cheers
for bad performance. Shimano's are excellent brakes. Formula brakes are the bomb.
There is nothing on your bike that undergo's more temperature extremes than brakes. Therefore brakes make noise and need maintenance.
Well maintained Formula brakes, (like my four year old 'Ones'), work perfect, modulate better than anything with the same stopping power, don't squeak and they stop with one finger pull.
I replace my fluid about every year and a half. I change the rotors when I can no longer bend them to straight. Pads are like politicians, they should be changed often and for the same reason, (if you ride your bike and don't spend all your time on bike forums : )
Cheers
Joined
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4,236 Posts
My formula r1's always squeaked a little and I just got used to it. Besides all the stuff others have said, it also might be a couple things around caliper centering.
1) When I got them they were used and the front rotor was not perfectly straight, so I was getting some dragging and some dreaded squeak. If this is a problem, try loosening and recentering the caliper on the most out-of-true section of the rotor. That might over compensate the rotor too far, so if still squeaking, recenter again on a slightly less bent section.
2) Next, the back caliper had a stuck piston, so it was a little out of center, pushing the rotor up against one side of the caliper causing grinding and squeak under hard breaking. There was also slight full time rotor drag on one side. To compensate this problem, put a little piece of card stock paper in between the rotor and the pad to act as a spacer while you recenter the caliper. This locks the caliper into a position slightly left or right from the typical method. Do this on whatever side needs the extra clearance.
3) When tightening bolts and recentering, don't just torque down #1 then #2. Always tighten one a little, then tighten the other, a little at a time. You don't want it moving while you torque them down, so you are using each to support the other.
All these are universal solutions for frequent problems on brakes, and as I said my r1's were used, so this is not a knock on formulas. In fact I got tip #2 out of an elixir troubleshooting threadi believe. Hope that helps!
1) When I got them they were used and the front rotor was not perfectly straight, so I was getting some dragging and some dreaded squeak. If this is a problem, try loosening and recentering the caliper on the most out-of-true section of the rotor. That might over compensate the rotor too far, so if still squeaking, recenter again on a slightly less bent section.
2) Next, the back caliper had a stuck piston, so it was a little out of center, pushing the rotor up against one side of the caliper causing grinding and squeak under hard breaking. There was also slight full time rotor drag on one side. To compensate this problem, put a little piece of card stock paper in between the rotor and the pad to act as a spacer while you recenter the caliper. This locks the caliper into a position slightly left or right from the typical method. Do this on whatever side needs the extra clearance.
3) When tightening bolts and recentering, don't just torque down #1 then #2. Always tighten one a little, then tighten the other, a little at a time. You don't want it moving while you torque them down, so you are using each to support the other.
All these are universal solutions for frequent problems on brakes, and as I said my r1's were used, so this is not a knock on formulas. In fact I got tip #2 out of an elixir troubleshooting threadi believe. Hope that helps!
Joined
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2,409 Posts
My '12 The Ones squealed no matter what I did. I've had the issue in the past with Avid brakes, and was always able to do one of the above suggestions to eventually get them to stop. These however just refused to be quiet. Finally just switched to the organic pads and now they are fine.
Joined
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98 Posts
bed them in properly. If that doesn't work try Swisstop pads
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