When do I use the front sprockets and the back sprockets. It's so confusing...When do I wan big to small...small to big..
First MTB. Question: When do I shift?
JuliusDarius
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When do I use the front sprockets and the back sprockets. It's so confusing...When do I wan big to small...small to big..
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you want to be pedaling somewhere between 60 and 90 rpms. mix and match front and rear until that happens.
or, to simplify a little more, you probably want to be on the middle one in the front most of the time. you can use the small one in front on steep hills, and the big one on flat land or down hills.
or, to simplify a little more, you probably want to be on the middle one in the front most of the time. you can use the small one in front on steep hills, and the big one on flat land or down hills.
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Ok, thanks for the advice. Ill get out and try all the combinations to get a feel for them!
Also note that shifting under load (meaning when you are pedaling with a lot of resistance like when going uphill) is not good for the drivetrain or chain.
The chain will always shift more smoothly when it is "load free" meaning that the crank is still turning but with minimal force being applied by the rider.
The chain will always shift more smoothly when it is "load free" meaning that the crank is still turning but with minimal force being applied by the rider.
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Are we talking mountain bike or road bike here?
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90% of the time I use gears 2-4 through 2-6 for level terrain (24 speed). I only go into granny gear on super steep climbs
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big sprockets in front make you pedal slower while covering more ground. Smaller the sprocket, faster you pedal but you cover less ground, so say uphill.
BUT it is opposite in the back, bigger sprockets make you spin pedal faster while smaller makes you pedal slower(because these gears are on your wheel, not on your pedals)
Basically, they are all steps of a gear, like a car. Each step gets you a fraction of slower pedal spin for faster tire revolution. But most people don't go thru all 18 gears(or whatever you happen to have) when they ride. You tend to like to pedal a certain speed and feel a certain comfort level of effort. You'll just need to find that by just doing it.
Example:
My hubby likes to pedal slower than I do while going the same speed, so he chooses a larger front cog combined with a smaller rear cog than I do. People have different comfort levels.
And you don't shift while pressing hard on the pedals or standing up on them, you shift while pedaling evenly but with light feet. The best thing to do it anticipate a change in terrain(like a hill 20ft in front of you) and shift at that time. And if you need to shift on a hill, lighten your feet and shift, while pedaling. You will slow down but won't stop and your rear der will like you much better
BUT it is opposite in the back, bigger sprockets make you spin pedal faster while smaller makes you pedal slower(because these gears are on your wheel, not on your pedals)
Basically, they are all steps of a gear, like a car. Each step gets you a fraction of slower pedal spin for faster tire revolution. But most people don't go thru all 18 gears(or whatever you happen to have) when they ride. You tend to like to pedal a certain speed and feel a certain comfort level of effort. You'll just need to find that by just doing it.
Example:
My hubby likes to pedal slower than I do while going the same speed, so he chooses a larger front cog combined with a smaller rear cog than I do. People have different comfort levels.
And you don't shift while pressing hard on the pedals or standing up on them, you shift while pedaling evenly but with light feet. The best thing to do it anticipate a change in terrain(like a hill 20ft in front of you) and shift at that time. And if you need to shift on a hill, lighten your feet and shift, while pedaling. You will slow down but won't stop and your rear der will like you much better
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some people are built to spin, and ride fire roads and stuff.
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Do it how you want. I'll tell you how I do it, though. Give it a try, and take whatever's useful from it.
I use the chainrings to match trends in the terrain and the cogs to tune my cadence. So if I'm mostly climbing, I use the small chainring. Flat to rolling singletrack, middle ring. Fast descents, big ring. (TBH, I don't use the big ring much off-road.) Then shift the rear so that I'm pedaling at a comfortable speed for how hard I want to work. There are a few things I do a bit differently. If I'm riding on asphalt, I'm often one chainring higher. So middle to climb, big to cruise on flats. If I decide to get out of the saddle for a while, like on a long fire road climb that's making me feel stiff or fatigued, I often shift up a chainring. Maybe a couple of cogs too.
In general, chainring shifts are a little slower and a little more sensitive to drivetrain load. They're also much bigger changes in the gear ratio of the bike. That's why I tend to use them for trends, and a lot less frequently. I shift my rear derailleur a lot more often, although I still don't like to shift just for a roller or something else small enough to get over in a couple hard pedal strokes.
Hope that's legible and useful.
I use the chainrings to match trends in the terrain and the cogs to tune my cadence. So if I'm mostly climbing, I use the small chainring. Flat to rolling singletrack, middle ring. Fast descents, big ring. (TBH, I don't use the big ring much off-road.) Then shift the rear so that I'm pedaling at a comfortable speed for how hard I want to work. There are a few things I do a bit differently. If I'm riding on asphalt, I'm often one chainring higher. So middle to climb, big to cruise on flats. If I decide to get out of the saddle for a while, like on a long fire road climb that's making me feel stiff or fatigued, I often shift up a chainring. Maybe a couple of cogs too.
In general, chainring shifts are a little slower and a little more sensitive to drivetrain load. They're also much bigger changes in the gear ratio of the bike. That's why I tend to use them for trends, and a lot less frequently. I shift my rear derailleur a lot more often, although I still don't like to shift just for a roller or something else small enough to get over in a couple hard pedal strokes.
Hope that's legible and useful.
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I use my front gears (called rings) as "ranges". Since I replaced the large ring with a bash guard, I have two ranges. When I'm climbing steepish and/or technical trails, I like my "low"range. I use my "middle" range for less challenging terrain. I don't often use the full range either, typically just the largest 4 or 5 cogs. That's suitable for hilly, rocky New England, but in smoother areas the smaller cogs and a big ring might come in handy.
Transitioning from between rings often involves shifting to a different cog as well to maintain roughly the same cadence - otherwise you'd be going into too hard or too easy a gear combination too quickly.
Transitioning from between rings often involves shifting to a different cog as well to maintain roughly the same cadence - otherwise you'd be going into too hard or too easy a gear combination too quickly.
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Im with the "try it out and get a feel". Though i did go back to riding with the basic understanding of how the gears worked, but after reading here (been reading here for the last 2 months, decided time to join today) realized ive been timing my shifts and just flat out doing it wrong. Found my shift cable and der are much happier when I take the force from my pedaling when i shift. I do have trouble timing my shifts cause I many times on short climbs try to build speed first to minimize effort needed to make the climb, sometimes finding myself fighting to shift properly while on the climb.
It just takes time and practice, I have gotten alot better since i went back to riding in May, spent alot of time learning by reading here and then putting into practice.
It just takes time and practice, I have gotten alot better since i went back to riding in May, spent alot of time learning by reading here and then putting into practice.
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The goal of shifting is to do it early and often. You don't want to stay in one gear for a long time there's a singlespeed for that You'd want to maintain the rhythm like Bill mentioned above somewhere between 60-90 rpm is a very good start shift the gear that would allow you to maintain that. Rear shifting can stand some load but don't abuse it, front shifting can not if you shift the front on the climb you gotta have good timing or you'd get chain dropped. Practice, practice, practice.
You'd want to maintain the rhythm like Bill mentioned above somewhere between 60-90 rpm is a very good start shift the gear that would allow you to maintain that. Rear shifting can stand some load but don't abuse it, front shifting can not if you shift the front on the climb you gotta have good timing or you'd get chain dropped. Practice, practice, practice.
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Shifting a skill that can be rather strategic. It depends on your physical strengths, your trails, and your bike setup. I typically like triples and shift the front in response to *major* changes in pitch and shift the rear in response to minor changes, mainly just to fine tune my power output.
I basically use the "granny" (smallest chainring) on any significant inclines, middle ring on any relatively level trails, and big ring for any declines. I use the rear just to fine tune to give me enough resistance to put out a consistent amount of torque at a consistent RPM. I tend to time my shifts at the first moment it's needed, not too early and not too late.
I've found that some drivetrains like to shift a bunch at a time, like SRAM XX, but it's much more efficient to shift one at a time. You got to learn the nuances of them to best take advantage of them, such as their tendency to chainsuck or if you can shift under load, or if it's quick shifting one at a time or not. I'm lucky to have multiple bikes and personally find the new Shimano DynaSys stuff to suit my style better.
Just purposely think about shifting the next time you ride and try to figure out your own strategy on how to shift. It's not really something that is so simple that people can find the "right gear" at the right time, every time.
I basically use the "granny" (smallest chainring) on any significant inclines, middle ring on any relatively level trails, and big ring for any declines. I use the rear just to fine tune to give me enough resistance to put out a consistent amount of torque at a consistent RPM. I tend to time my shifts at the first moment it's needed, not too early and not too late.
I've found that some drivetrains like to shift a bunch at a time, like SRAM XX, but it's much more efficient to shift one at a time. You got to learn the nuances of them to best take advantage of them, such as their tendency to chainsuck or if you can shift under load, or if it's quick shifting one at a time or not. I'm lucky to have multiple bikes and personally find the new Shimano DynaSys stuff to suit my style better.
Just purposely think about shifting the next time you ride and try to figure out your own strategy on how to shift. It's not really something that is so simple that people can find the "right gear" at the right time, every time.
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Pretty much the same as the way I used my gears.
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Well from one newbie to another, I took my bike around my neighborhood yesterday with this thread in mind. We have lots of hills which gave me the chance to focus on gear changes and practice that quite a bit. There are times when I do forget or realized I should have changed so I punished myself by keeping the gears where they were, proved especially difficult on downhill, but it is a "find it" game to your comfort level. I found the most comfortable for me was the middle ring in the front and adjust my rear gears as I moved, the smaller ring in the front prove difficult for me to pedal. I guess we just have to keep at it until we find that "comfort zone" - I say try it on streets first, then moved that to the trails not sure if that's good advice but is helping learn my gears and getting to know my bike.
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Most beginners on most trails are best served riding in the middle chain ring in the front most of the time and "fine tuning" using the gears in the back to keep your pedal strength just below getting winded. If you have a very steep sustained climb, go ahead and drop it down to the little chainring on the front and "fine tune with the gears in the back. You don't want to use the little chainring in the front and the two smallest gears in the back if you can avoid it. It puts extra stress on the chain that's not necessary. Little ring in the front and big ring in the back is called "Granny Gear" because it takes the least amount of effort to pedal. You can get up most steep climbs in this gear while sitting down. Good to use as a beginner on those steep climbs so you can save your energy for other parts of the trail.
As Boulder mentioned, it changes when you're riding on the road: big gear in the front for flats and middle front for hills. Again, you don't want to use the big in the front and the two biggest in the back if you can avoid it.
It's about using the gears to adjust your watt output: Bicycle performance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Use the gear that keeps your heart rate and breathing in target range. If you are in too high of a gear for too long, you'll get your heart and breathing in maximum range. If you get into maximum range for too long or too too often, you will need to stop, rest, puke and/or quit.
The stronger your legs and lungs get, the less you'll use the little front. You'll know you're in great shape when you no longer need to use the Granny Gear and you stand up to climb those steep hills.
As Boulder mentioned, it changes when you're riding on the road: big gear in the front for flats and middle front for hills. Again, you don't want to use the big in the front and the two biggest in the back if you can avoid it.
It's about using the gears to adjust your watt output: Bicycle performance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Use the gear that keeps your heart rate and breathing in target range. If you are in too high of a gear for too long, you'll get your heart and breathing in maximum range. If you get into maximum range for too long or too too often, you will need to stop, rest, puke and/or quit.
The stronger your legs and lungs get, the less you'll use the little front. You'll know you're in great shape when you no longer need to use the Granny Gear and you stand up to climb those steep hills.
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