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Padi R

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I've got a VP Tracer with a Fox Float RP23 rear shock and have a feeling it could be set up better for me. My other full sus has an old float shock, and there used to be charts giving rough pressure guides for rider weight, but I know that they say RP23 needs to be set up by measuring sag. Having said that, I'd much rather just get the shock pump, pump it up to the right pressure, and forget about it. I'm 155 lbs, with the shock set up for the shorter travel (5.5").
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dq85bu1juumwdx3/RP23%20FOXHelp%20Owners%20Manual.mht?m

Here's a link the to a very basic RP23 Manual. Setting proper sag only takes a minute but you do need a shock pump to adjust it. Just use a zip tie if you don't have your sag ring still on your shock.

On both my Tracer VP and now T2 the RP23 is a bit finicky about finding the right pressure, but once you the ProPedal actually works really good for long steady climbs. Just play with it a bit til you get it where you like the ride then check the pressure so you always have a starting point and make fine adjustments from there.

Trust me, it's worth it to take a few minutes before your next couple of rides and play with the shock settings til you find your sweet spot. Good luck.
 
I'm about your weight with all my gear. With a stock RP23, unmodified, I ran 105 psi in the 5.5" position to get 30% sag. I have since done the air sleeve modifiacation to reduce air volume, and I only run the 6" mode now. For that, I run 135 psi.

But I agree with what Trojans said - the Tracer takes some time to find the right air pressure and damping settings. The difference in how the bike is now vs when I first tried it is huge. It's awesome now - it was merely good when I tried the first setups.
 
As Trojans said, you need to play with it to find YOUR sweet spot.

I run about 250psi at about 20% sag (because it suits me). I'm about 200lbs with no gear. I gradually upped the presure untill I found the bike riding it's best (to MY taste). It may make a differance that I've only been full sussed for about 5 years of almost 20 (starting rigid then hardtail about 15 years ago). It maybe a little to hard as I rarely get full travel, but it supports me much more on the trail.
 
Sorry to be that guy but ditch the rp23. As countless other threads will attest to - its just rubbish on the Tracer (my view is its rubbish period). If you don't have any luck getting it to feel good - do what I and countless others did; flog it on eBay. The Monarch RT3 is very cheap (what u sell ur rp23 for on eBay will get u one new) and far superior alternative to the Fox. Better midstroke, more platform when u have it engaged and also very reliable.
A pricier alternative is the CCDB-A. I run a coil CCDB on mine when not running the Monarch.
 
Depends on your riding and setup. My RP23 was not very good when I got the bike - bottomed easily, etc. After shimming down the air volume (cost: free) and switching the bike to the 6" mode, it feels fantastic after some tuning. I was eyeing a CCDBA, but for the terrain around here, the free solution made more sense. I very much recommend reducing the XV volume on the Tracer - it seems to work better without the extra volume. I never use Propedal or any platform (hate how it feels), so I can't speak to that portion. Don't know what kind of terrain the OP rides on, but he might be able to do just fine as-is with some tuning.
 
Hey CTB, what's involved with changing the RP23 to standard volume vs. the HV? Did you have to send it in or is it a DIY job?

What do you like better about it after making the volume change? My RP23 seems to work pretty nice, but honestly I don't have a lot to compare it to since both my Tracers have had HV RP23's
 
Trojans, it's VERY easy, totally DIY. Credit goes to the Turner forum. Here is the thread:

http://forums.mtbr.com/turner/dw-5-spot-rp23-mod-503070.html

Since my plastic was thinner than he had (I believe mine was 0.9 thick instead of the 1.2 he used), I compensated by increasing the size of the shim. My dimensions are such that my shim is just below the air vent hole from the main chamber to the XV chamber. Basically I calculated what was needed to reduce the volume by the same amount the Turner thread suggested.

EDIT: Here is the thread where I had my shim dimensions:

http://forums.mtbr.com/intense/tracer-vp-rear-shock-set-up-774578-2.html#post9228473

What I like better: In 5.5" travel mode and full XV volume, I felt that the bottom-out was pretty harsh/noticable, and also a lot more frequent than I would expect given my weight and the fairly mild terrain we have in my area. More air would have helped this, but I was right around the 30% number for sag, and I know that the VPP likes sag in that area. I'm coming off a 4.7" bike that had a very soft bottom-out feel - I never knew it bottomed until I checked my sag indicator. The Tracer wasn't like that when I got it. For reference, I'm around 155lb with full gear. When I shimmed the bike, I then noticed that the bottoming was a lot less frequent and much softer than before due to the more progressive ramp-up of the spring rate with compression, but the rear end still didn't have that really nice "erase the big inputs" feel I had on the Lawwill. (Note that you'll have to reset your sag - you won't use the same air pressure with the reduced volume shim in there.) Finally, I changed to the 6" travel mode and found EXACTLY what I was looking for. I like a plush, endless-feeling rear suspension that soaks up everything, and that's what I got with the shim and 6" settings, now running 135 psi (ran 105 psi with the unmodified RP23 and 5.5" mode). I was seriously looking to get a CCDBA if this didn't work, but now that I have this setup, I'm saving the money for other things. CCDBA will be a "someday" item, perhaps on a Tracer 275, but for now, I'm happy with my setup on my TVP.
 
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