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any good videos shows how to lace wheels 3x?

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akacoke

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi,

im kinda frustrated, the past few times i laced wheels, individual wheels all turned out different. after going thru sheldon brown's wheelbuilding web page 3 times, im even more confused i just dont understand which side of the hub im looking at , which hole to drop in the 10th spoke, how to turn the hub after the 18th spoke.

now all im waiting for is a set of wheels, my build can finally finish . i was wondering if there's a good video shows the 2 critical step that i dont dont how to do .

thanks in advance
 
#4 ·
Well, it doesn't get any easier to learn than that, so in your place, I'd give it a few more shots.
His explanation is actually very good, and the illustrations are fine as well.

All of us needed a bit of time, for the first couple of wheel builds.


Magura :)
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
im just very confused, i dont know which side of the hub im looking at. when to turn the hub and where to begin for second set of spokes. there is a lot of videos, i really need a good video to show how to lace it with sheldon's way. not drive side 16/18 spokes first then non drive side.

i felt like he went over a bunch of stuffs thats useless when it comes to lacing the wheel. he's instruction is very long and irrelevant sometimes. english is my second language . its really a lot of reading
 
#6 ·
i did my first wheel build last fall following his guide and thought it was quite clear. i had no problems. will be building second set pretty soon and i am going to use the same guide. i thing reading all the info is quite interesting and it gives you little bit of background. if you dont care for it just start at The "key" spoke page. all his color illustrations were really helpful for me. ah, and just so you know, lacing the wheel is easy part, than comes truing and tensioning. just be patient.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
i know lacing its supposed to be easy, i just dont wanna follow sheldon's guide any more, its very very unclear to me, other people find it the same way. just like this guy http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/imo-sheldon-browns-wheel-building-699738.html

when he said flip the wheel , then his still showing picture of wheel not flipped. i dont know if you really get it when you were doing it. because 99% time you will have it wrong if you follow the exact words from that guide. the guide is very illogical to me, one minute he was talking about drive side the other minute its about non driver side. he also compares both side for the same set of spokes. its just very frustrating when he does that while using " right and left" for both hubs sides and spokes.

again im posting this thread just to ask for good video guide on how to lace the wheels. im done looking at articles . they do me no good.
 
#8 ·
all the illustrations are shown from drive side, he makes it clear in his guide. it is this way to keep it simple, a least for me. he tells you to flip the wheel as you need to work on both sides, in fact you are repeating the very same steps on the other side.
if you are looking for video guide, good luck. i did too searched for video guide but didnt find any i would feel confident with an i ultimately returned to written guide.
 
#10 ·
Best way for me is always use another wheel as example. Getting the first spoke in proper for both sides is the most important. Then it is just common sense/copying.
Anyway, by just looking good at the other wheel you should be ok, provided that one is laced up good...

Verstuurd van mijn GT-I9100 met Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
got them laced up !!! :D moving on to harder part.

i got 1 question . right now all the nipples showing 1-2 thread, its 15 or 16mm brass nipple that came with the sapim spokes . is it normal for the wheels to be still lose when there is about 1-2 threads showing on a 15mm nipple ?
 
#13 ·
Mr.Magura said:
Post a couple of pics of what you have sorted so far, and let's see.

If you're still in trouble in trouble when you wake up tomorrow, PM me and I'll walk you through things on Skype.

Magura :)
Click to expand...
+1 rep 4 U

Good to see people helping so much.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Mr.Magura said:
Post a couple of pics of what you have sorted so far, and let's see.

If you're still in trouble in trouble when you wake up tomorrow, PM me and I'll walk you through things on Skype.

Magura :)
Click to expand...
rep for sure. :thumbsup: thanks a lot for trying to help.

here is a pic of the wheels. i wasnt following any guide i just went with the flow , focused more on how to get everything right instead of the guide.

now i feel like i can lace wheels in the future without having to look at any guide.
 

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Discussion starter · #15 ·
oh,

the hoops are sun mtx33 brand new off ebay for $50 shipped for both.
sapim straight 14g spokes 80 of them for $29 shipped off dan's comp
hubs are novatec 4 bearing rear 24 POE, front its a 2 bearing 20mm.

this would be a very good wheelset if i got it tensioned and trued right. weight is 2508g without the rear QR
 
#16 ·
So did the valve end up in the right position? Hard to tell from the pic...

I just built wheels similar to yours yesterday.

Mine are made up of MTX39 24", DT Champion plain gauge 2mm spokes, and Hadley 160x14 rear / Funn 20mm front.
I guess mine are closer to 3000g for the pair though.

Be patient when you true the wheels. Make sure they are not out of round first, then center them sideways afterwards. Keep checking that all the spokes got even tension, through the entire process.

Let me know if you need further assistance.


Magura :)
 
Discussion starter · #17 · (Edited)
right on man, i will let you know if i need any help. good looking out


its a presta valve , hard to find the valve hole, i probabely tape it when truing. i double checked everything lined up properly. the valve hole is at correct location where 2 spokes from each flange run parallel to each other. looking down the it the logo is right in the center. so i think lacing part is done. haha . lucky i bought a park tool tension meter sometime ago i will put it to good use. whats the normal tension reading to 2.0 spokes that are 257 258mm long ?

which bike do you have that's got a 160mm drop out? sounds like a beast , mtx39 is the bomb. looks indestructible
 
#18 ·
akacoke said:
whats the normal tension reading to 2.0 spokes that are 257 258mm long ?

which bike do you have that's got a 160mm drop out? sounds like a beast , mtx39 is the bomb. looks indestructible
Click to expand...
115kgf is the number DT recommends as I recall.

I don't actually have the bike yet, as it is a carbon DJ/FR frame I am making myself.

Magura :)
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
dwt said:
For future reference check out the Pancho Herrera videos on YouTube

Bicycle Wheel Building : Placing Drive Side Pulling Spokes in a Bicycle Wheel - YouTube

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
i came across that video too. he lost me at the second video for the first spoke of non drive side, which in my opinion its the most important spoke of wheel lacing.
Bicycle Wheel Building : Placing Left Side Pulling Spokes in a Bicycle Wheel - YouTube

at 00:33 all he said was " notice that is one behind , so thatd correspond to that hole there " not trying to be a doucche , for beginner like me, he totally lost me . because the hole in the non drive side doesnt line up with drive side. i dont know by "behind" he means behind drive side flange or behind the hole from the same flange. this is exactly the kind unclear i meant for sheldon 's guide. some ****er left me a negative rep for trashing sheldon brown 's guide. not that i care. its a ****ing free country i can say whatever i wanna say, its not for you to judge . what the **** do you think you are anyways ?
 
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