I'm looking to use or convert a bmx hub for ss use. I like the idea of the bigger axles, especially for the project I would like to use it on. Any help would be great. Thanks.
BMX hub spacing?
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gratefulbiker
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I'm looking to use or convert a bmx hub for ss use. I like the idea of the bigger axles, especially for the project I would like to use it on. Any help would be great. Thanks.
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Bmx rear hub spacing is 110mm. Front is 100mm. I run Shimano DX hubs (bmx) with the rear respaced to 135mm. Axle diameter for the rear is the same as my mtn hubs. For the front, the axle diameter is larger, but the axle has flat spots so it'll fit into regular fork ends. I know some other bmx hubs have larger diameter axles, but I don't know how they'd work with regular dropouts/forks.gratefulbiker said:
baker
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typical bmx rear hubs have 3/8" or 14mm axles.
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Wow, that's gotta be in competition for the most belated response ever...almost 8 years!
baker
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I thought about using bmx hubs too because you can run a supersmall gear (nine tooth) but the narrow spacing makes for a weaker wheel. the bearings are farther in toward the center of the axle, and tha spoke flanges are closer together. The wider the spoke flanges the better (thats what I think) You can get 135mm spaced 14mm axle hubs though. My Yuba Mundo has a 14mm axle through a 48spoke hub with sealed bearings and disk mount. You can get a set of Yuba wheels through their website pretty cheap. They are tuff as hell with really thick gage spokes.
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If you want any sort of BMX hub on any MTB or road application, go with a Profile Racing hub!
http://www.profileracing.com/estore/product.php?productId=158
http://www.profileracing.com/estore/product.php?productId=158
Spoke flanges are the same.
I see what you're selling about the bearings being closer together, but that only applies when comparing freehub to freewheel, and it applies to old multi-speed freewheel hubs as well as BMX hubs. In fact, I have to go back in time to address what you said about flanges:
Flange distance is the same. BMX freewheel hubs WERE primarily "five speed freewheel" hubs in the early days, and most of those hubs were designed to convert to single-speed spacing by simply removing a spacer on the drive side.
The flange spacing is the same between BMX and most multispeed hubs to this day, as most multispeed hubs have a spacer on the non-drive side and a wide freehub body on the drive side. The difference is that most BMX RIMS have zero dish. And non-dished wheels are stronger.
I see what you're selling about the bearings being closer together, but that only applies when comparing freehub to freewheel, and it applies to old multi-speed freewheel hubs as well as BMX hubs. In fact, I have to go back in time to address what you said about flanges:
Flange distance is the same. BMX freewheel hubs WERE primarily "five speed freewheel" hubs in the early days, and most of those hubs were designed to convert to single-speed spacing by simply removing a spacer on the drive side.
The flange spacing is the same between BMX and most multispeed hubs to this day, as most multispeed hubs have a spacer on the non-drive side and a wide freehub body on the drive side. The difference is that most BMX RIMS have zero dish. And non-dished wheels are stronger.
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This thread is ANCIENT.
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shimano solid axle conversion kit should do what you're looking for. although you will only have a 10mm axle instead of a 14mm...
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homie haulers? yeah, it should not be difficult to put a solid, nutted axle in just about any cup-and-cone bearing hub. match the diameter and thread pitch. it would have to be pretty darn long for pegs to fit. I can't promise that it won't bend the dropouts when you put any weight on it because the dropouts probably won't provide much support. I know because I've bent and broken several axles and bent dropouts on bmx bikes.
Several Shimano hubs were available in solid axle, just find one that looks the same and use the guts. And then you won't have to rethread your pegs to 10mm.
Option 2: Buy a solid axle kit on eBay and make it work
Option 3: Measure your cones and locknuts, buy them and a bare axle on eBay
Option 4: Measure your parts and take photos, I can probably pull the parts you need out of my bins. And buy the axle on eBay.
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You just need the axle. It will work with your current cones and bearings
I didn't see him ask about a 14mm axle, just a solid axle for a parallax hub. Those have been around since the beginning, at 3/8x26 TPI, the same as old-school BMX hubs.
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threaded pegs are still around in the dark corners of the internet, but those mostly went away 20 years ago. The folks you see in the movie RAD had threaded pegs. with few exceptions, all modern pegs slide onto the axel and are secured with an axle nut on the inside using a socket. on BMX bikes designed with pegs in mind, the most common axle arrangement is to use a 3/8" or 10mm axle up front and a 14mm rear, so it's common to buy pegs in pairs. they are often sold with one 14mm and the other 3/8". if you by pegs with a 3/8" bore, a 10mm axle should also fit with no problems. some pegs come drilled for 14mm axles and some come with step-down adapter washers.
most of those modern pegs are about 1.5" in diameter at the base so they have a wide contact area with the dropout for support and strength. if there's not enough room on the frame in question, you'll need to look hard for smaller pegs on some that have a taper.
OP: do you plan to use modern, large pegs, or some of those stubby old school ones from the '80s? my first BMX setup had Odyssey Hollow Bullet pegs and those sucked for standing on!
I was merely combining these things:
1.) Versions of the hub were available with 3/8 solid axles
2.) 3/8 "freewheel" threaded pegs are still abundant.
3.) The dropouts of many mountain bike frames lack the wide flat space used by unthreaded pegs.
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