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Yakima Bike Rack - Modify for fatbike?

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#2 ·
Get the high roller rack and a long strip of velcro for the rear tire and you are set, then sell your other rack or keep it for the road bikes. Just my opinion. I have a yakima rack that grabs the frame (raptor) that I modified the tray using a rain gutter. Works great and was cheap but then I got a good deal on the high roller rack and now I prefer it much better. It's just nice that it works as is. I even have 100mm rims and I just deflate a tad and it fits. The only time I use my other modified rack now is if I need to carry 2 fat bikes.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
That rack goes on the roof, right? If so, not sure I want to do that. Too crazy getting a bike like that up on top of the Xterra and getting it all tied in. I do that with our sea kayaks, and it's a pain to get up there to fiddle with stuff. I'd rather just chuck the bike into the back.

The rain gutter idea is real interesting...
 
#6 ·
just modified the exact same rack last night. All you need to do is remove the plastic piece that wraps the front tire. This will allow the tire to fit well. You will need to drill out the two rivets that hold it in place. The second thing you will need to do is find a longer ratchet strap for the rear tire. I haven't found one yet but there is bound to be one out there somewhere. Outside of that the tires fit in the plastic tire holder snug but seem to work fine by working the tires into them a little.

Another thing you could do to add some versatility to the rack is drill a hole opposite the hole where the rivet was on the metal bar and the plastic piece that you removed, purchase a longer bolt and wing nut that will extend through the plastic piece. You can use this to quickly add it back to the rack when carrying a conventional bike.

Hope this helps. Glad to add pics if you would like.
 
#8 ·
pics

Here are pics of the modification.

Drill out the rivets for the plastic piece and drill a hole all the way through where the rivets used to be. Remove the plastic piece.

Image


Works like a charm once you replace the ratchet strap since the stock one is about an inch too short. (still working on finding a replacement but a bungee cord will work for now).

Image


You can then add a bolt and wing nut so that you can still use a regular mountain bike without loosing the plastic piece.

Image


Thats it. Way easier and more versatile than I thought it would be.
 
#11 ·
After checking with a couple of the local bike shops, I had no luck finding a longer ratchet strap and decided to make my own.

Cut the strap, use a piece of one inch webbing to extend it, rivet it in. I went ahead and cut the end of the strap off and used a nut and bolt to hold it in place once back on the rack, since it is impossible to re-thread it through the slot with the rivets in place.

Image


Now the project is finally done.
 
#12 ·
Insainio said:
Here are pics of the modification.

Drill out the rivets for the plastic piece and drill a hole all the way through where the rivets used to be. Remove the plastic piece.

Image


Works like a charm once you replace the ratchet strap since the stock one is about an inch too short. (still working on finding a replacement but a bungee cord will work for now).

Image


You can then add a bolt and wing nut so that you can still use a regular mountain bike without loosing the plastic piece.

Image


Thats it. Way easier and more versatile than I thought it would be.
Click to expand...
I made the same modification and my Mukluk 3 (Nate tires) wouldn't slide down into the wheel hoop. Maybe I need to let some air out of the tires. Any other tips are appreciated.

Thanks,
 
#13 ·
I'm not sure what you mean by the "wheel hoop"? Nate's should work with this set up. Letting some air out will help. I also find that just being a bit forceful with the tires helps. Push them hard into where the tire sits. Sometimes twisting the handle bar side to side will help seat the tire too. If you are talking about the arm that holds the bike upright, it will fit. Because the Nates are more lugged, it will just take more effort to get the arm over the tire. Unfortunately, as with Fatbikes themselves, a couple of millimeters makes a big difference.
 
#14 ·
Old thread but didn't see my rack. I need to mount fatbikes and would like to somehow use what I have. If the front wheel holders are steel I can cut and weld to make them bigger. The tray looks like cutting it is my option. I see mounts that fit the fork mount but would like a cheaper option. Any help would be awesome.
Image
 
#15 ·


I figured I'd update this post with my modifications that make the Yakima Holdup work with the 4.6 tires on my Fatboy. I followed the above posts to remove the plastic cover for the main hoop. Then I also pulled the metal hoop off the rack and used a spreader in the lower portion of the hoop while keeping the end cap areas clamped in a vice to keep them from opening up as well. I gained about 1/4-1/2" additional clearance in the metal hoop and the plastic still slides over just fine. Obviously this step is a little more advanced, but it yielded good results.

I also cut down the plastic tire retainer that holds the rear of the tire. I could go back and shave it a bit more to get a better overall fit, but for now it works fine and retains plenty of usability for non-fat tires.

Another tip is to pull the c-clip and pin from the metal locking pin at the top of the locking arm assembly and replace it with a 3/8"x2.5" PTO Pin that I picked up from Menards. This allows you to pull the top cap and ratchet portion off the arm quickly so you can rotate the arm over the tire and then put it back on to lock it down in place. I'm still using a cheap nylon utility strap for the rear hold down, but I may do the homemade extension shown above.

The tires are still a tight squeeze, but even with 13-15 lbs of pressure, I can use my hand to push it down far enough to get the tire in metal hoop enough to lock it securely in place with the arm. The bike and rack just got a nice 2200 mile test out to Colorado and back and worked great.
 
#16 ·
^^Awesome!! Thanks for the update. One of the things stopping me in the past from moving from my 3.8 Pugs to the a wider tires bike has been that I have this same rack. It fits 3.8 fine with no mods, good to know that simple mods will accommodate the big tires. Some close up pics would be appreciated ;)
 
#18 ·
Buckshot77 said:
View attachment 936754

I figured I'd update this post with my modifications that make the Yakima Holdup work with the 4.6 tires on my Fatboy. I followed the above posts to remove the plastic cover for the main hoop. Then I also pulled the metal hoop off the rack and used a spreader in the lower portion of the hoop while keeping the end cap areas clamped in a vice to keep them from opening up as well. I gained about 1/4-1/2" additional clearance in the metal hoop and the plastic still slides over just fine. Obviously this step is a little more advanced, but it yielded good results.

I also cut down the plastic tire retainer that holds the rear of the tire. I could go back and shave it a bit more to get a better overall fit, but for now it works fine and retains plenty of usability for non-fat tires.

Another tip is to pull the c-clip and pin from the metal locking pin at the top of the locking arm assembly and replace it with a 3/8"x2.5" PTO Pin that I picked up from Menards. This allows you to pull the top cap and ratchet portion off the arm quickly so you can rotate the arm over the tire and then put it back on to lock it down in place. I'm still using a cheap nylon utility strap for the rear hold down, but I may do the homemade extension shown above.

The tires are still a tight squeeze, but even with 13-15 lbs of pressure, I can use my hand to push it down far enough to get the tire in metal hoop enough to lock it securely in place with the arm. The bike and rack just got a nice 2200 mile test out to Colorado and back and worked great.
Click to expand...
Bought a new bike with Bud and Lou tires ( 4.8 ) Hope this mod will handle them
 
#19 ·
I trimmed the tabs out of the front wheel arch and welded a 6" extension to the arch so now I have gobs of room to clear a Bud. I also removed the plastic tray for the front wheel. Welding isn't required and the same could be accomplished with nuts/bolts. I just use a cam strap (like NRS sells) for the rear tire. Another good option would be a voile ski strap.
 
#20 ·
edbraunbeck said:
I made the same modification and my Mukluk 3 (Nate tires) wouldn't slide down into the wheel hoop. Maybe I need to let some air out of the tires. Any other tips are appreciated.

Thanks,
Click to expand...
is that a Bud in the pic?
 
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