well ive got about two weeks on the bike and would like some advice on upgrades since its my first bike in ten years and would like to get back in to xc racing 
2011 Trek mamba 29er advice on upgrades.
sjewell07
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The light grey stripes on the TT, ST and seat stays are the stickers on the Cobia. The seams of the stickers are on the underside of the TT and seat stays and near the tire on the backside of the ST. A little heat from a hair dryer will soften the adhesive up, start at the seams and just go slow and they should come off it one piece. Goo Gone should take care of the adhesive residue.
If you're taking them off your Cobia please post pics
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if i´m not mistaken having the conversion done from pesos argentinos to u$s ~ 1300, without counting xt brakes, the bike costs here 3 month ago 1500 u$s
thanks!
XT shifters work well and are a bit cheaper than SRAM X0 stuff. You can always find some decent uysed ones on ebay.
I think you got some good tips on most parts. I would suggest the Ashima Pan Cake Brakes. They are by far the best value light-weight brake on the market right now. They weigh in at about 300g per set. I would go with the 180mm in front to get a little more power, as these brakes are a little bit weaker than the brakes you have now. Price is $130 or so per set new on ebay.
I second the Stans Arch wheelset. Best value. The Crest are even lighter, but usually cost more. However, I see that a guy has a set of new Crest 29ers with XT hubs on ebay for $399. Not quite sure how he can sell them for so cheap, unless those hubs weigh a ton. I would check that out first. If these weigh more than 1600g, not sure it is worth it. He says he has 10 sets available. Richards Bicycles.
I think you got some good tips on most parts. I would suggest the Ashima Pan Cake Brakes. They are by far the best value light-weight brake on the market right now. They weigh in at about 300g per set. I would go with the 180mm in front to get a little more power, as these brakes are a little bit weaker than the brakes you have now. Price is $130 or so per set new on ebay.
I second the Stans Arch wheelset. Best value. The Crest are even lighter, but usually cost more. However, I see that a guy has a set of new Crest 29ers with XT hubs on ebay for $399. Not quite sure how he can sell them for so cheap, unless those hubs weigh a ton. I would check that out first. If these weigh more than 1600g, not sure it is worth it. He says he has 10 sets available. Richards Bicycles.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention. When you upgrade drivetrain go with a SRAM XX or XO cassette. They are steel and ultralight around 200g. I would suggest a SRAM X9 2x9 system if you are on a budget or the XT 3x9 if you can;t afford the SRAM. If you can spurge go with a 2x10 X0. Not sure they make a 2x10 in X9.
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Trying out a new camera so I figured it was a decent excuse to try to show the gloss paint where the stickers once were.
If you are looking at changing the drivetrain, SLX level stuff is nearly the same in weight as XT but 1/3 less money.
I am sure I will drop around a pound when I go to 1x10 (the bash on a SLX double is reported 200 gm), get a similar bar in carbon and a new seat post. I need to stay the course and save up for new wheels which will give quicker engagement, less flex and cut pound or so.
If you are looking at changing the drivetrain, SLX level stuff is nearly the same in weight as XT but 1/3 less money.
I am sure I will drop around a pound when I go to 1x10 (the bash on a SLX double is reported 200 gm), get a similar bar in carbon and a new seat post. I need to stay the course and save up for new wheels which will give quicker engagement, less flex and cut pound or so.
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You sound exactly like me, down to weight and everything. I'm actually loving the ride so far. Haven't been biking in years and this thing is way more bike than I can ride. Mate endo'd it last week and bashed the rear DR out a little bit but it just climbs and rides over everything.
Thank you all for the tips on wheelset.
Thank you all for the tips on wheelset.
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724 Posts
XT hubs are pretty heavy - 250g front and 500g for the rear (ballpark for the M756s 6-bolts that I have). Matching those with a lightweight rim like the Crest doesn't make much sense to me.
FCTi
Thanks for the insight. That must be why they are so cheap. I think it would be cheaper to have a set built by the shop. The Crest rims only cost $88 each from Stans. Hubs will be about $200.
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62 Posts
I'm glad to see you guys removing those decals. The stripes on my Marlin are bleeding onto my frame. I couldn't tell if they were decals or not.
I like the idea of replacing or removing them a lot better than trying to get Trek to repaint it or swap it out -- bike's a month old.
I like the idea of replacing or removing them a lot better than trying to get Trek to repaint it or swap it out -- bike's a month old.
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640 Posts
im hoping mine has to go back...request a mamba frame to go with my blue bits =)
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I just heard back from my LBS about my warranty claim. They offered to replace the frame (yay!) with the LBS charging $140 to switch everything over (boo!).
Or I could get a $40 credit.
Wasn't really satisfied with any of that but I took the $40 and stripped the decals the rest of the way off. To me it makes the frame look unfinished because of the obvious lack of "matte" clearcoat underneath. Also, there's some black paint leftover under the decals that bled from the original painting process.
I'm thinking of just redoing the white on my own.
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How funny... I have a 2011 Mamba & one of the first things I did was to remove the blue stickers.
It looks waaay better.
It looks waaay better.
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62 Posts
Yeah, as of now, I just took mine off, too. I liked it better before though.
It's one thing to take them off because you want to and think it looks better. It's another to take them off because they've worn off over the course of a month.
I don't know, people on here seem to think it's a silly thing to worry about. But when I buy a new car, I expect the paint to not fall off the body. When I buy a pistol or other firearm, I expect the stock or frame to have a good, strong finish.
And when I buy a bike, I expect the paint to hold up to human contact. It's the principle of it to me.
It's one thing to take them off because you want to and think it looks better. It's another to take them off because they've worn off over the course of a month.
I don't know, people on here seem to think it's a silly thing to worry about. But when I buy a new car, I expect the paint to not fall off the body. When I buy a pistol or other firearm, I expect the stock or frame to have a good, strong finish.
And when I buy a bike, I expect the paint to hold up to human contact. It's the principle of it to me.
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640 Posts
i agree, its not like this is some wally world bike that we paid $80 for. The paint should hold up, not the end of the world, but its not right.
just an fyi the stock tires on the 2011 mamba while having almost no knob height are the heaviest boat anchors ive felt the make steel bead sugaros seem light the stock schrader valve tubes are also holy chit heavy.the wheels r kinda heavy too but those tires/tubes holy cow i was shocked
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hey thanks, i had a feeling they have alot of resistance, wish I upgraded before I spent the money on going tubeless..yea , I was riding other bikes and they all felt easier to pedal, not sure if it was just me tho. Thanks Again. I'm kinda clueless and not sure if the LBS is just out to sell me what they have in stock, sometimes.
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