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XT Hub Conversion on the Cheap

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BWG

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just got a new bombproof budget wheelset from mikesee with Shimano XT hubs front and rear for a new 29er build. I definately prefer bolt-on, thru-bolt or thru-axle hubs over quick release, but the popular and economical XT rear hubs only come in QR.
Here's a look at a cheap and simple axle conversion.

All you need is a longer than stock axle with nuts (about $15.00), and some cone socket hub wrenches.
Image


I replaced the stock 10x1x146mm hollow rear axle and skewer with a solid 10x1x174mm Wheels Manufacturing axle and two 10x1 axle nuts.
Image


Here's how my poor man's thru-axle kit turned out.
Image
 
#2 ·
Do you really notice that the rear is stiffer with a solid axle? Seems to me that the difference would be quite marginal since you can only tighten a rear axle safely so much against an aluminum dropout whether it's quick release or solid.
 
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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Malibu412 said:
Do you really notice that the rear is stiffer with a solid axle? Seems to me that the difference would be quite marginal since you can only tighten a rear axle safely so much against an aluminum dropout whether it's quick release or solid.
Click to expand...
Like I said above, I prefer bolt-on hubs. That's all.
For riders like me this is a good and inexpensive option.
 
#5 ·
BWG said:
Like I said above, I prefer bolt-on hubs. That's all.
For riders like me this is a good and inexpensive option.
Click to expand...
I hear ya. Inexpensive but effective is okay with me. I have solids on a cheap single speed as this is what works best with a steel frame with track end drop outs to keep the rear axle from sliding around.
 
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#6 ·
Malibu412 said:
Do you really notice that the rear is stiffer with a solid axle? Seems to me that the difference would be quite marginal since you can only tighten a rear axle safely so much against an aluminum dropout whether it's quick release or solid.
Click to expand...
given the same diameter and material grade a thick hollow tube will be stiffer than a solid chunk of material.

The OP's preference is what it is but it isn't because it's stiffer.
 
#7 ·
customfab said:
given the same diameter and material grade a thick hollow tube will be stiffer than a solid chunk of material.

The OP's preference is what it is but it isn't because it's stiffer.
Click to expand...
Is that true ? Would a paper-thin hollow tube with same material grade and same external diameter be stiffer than a solid chunk of material ?
 
#9 ·
customfab said:
given the same diameter and material grade a thick hollow tube will be stiffer than a solid chunk of material.

The OP's preference is what it is but it isn't because it's stiffer.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately that is absolutely not true. The whole "tubing is stronger than solid rod" is a total myth. Basic engineering/structural calcs will prove this.

The good thing about tubing is that it has a better strength to weight ratio. It is not stronger...just like titanium compared to steel. Better ratio on titanium, but not as strong.

The further the material is away from the center of the beam, the more effective it is in bending. Which is exactly why I-beams have all that material on the top and bottom and not much in the middle...same philosophy with tubing. The material in the middle doesn't do a whole lot, but it still works.

Same material and size...solid will always be stronger than hollow..
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
hsakkire said:
Actually, I have done this with the front wheel. I liked this set up with my first generation Reba which can be a little flexy.

It seemed to help.

YMMV :)
Click to expand...
I'm doing the front hub soon for a rigid steel fork as soon as I get the parts. Wanted to see how the rear turned out and I'm really happy with it so far.
 
#11 ·
Are those no turn washers? I swapped them for bolts with normal washers. This because I found that there where only a few threads engaged with my solid axle (surly axle and surly no turn washers). When looking at the pictures I see that the ends of the axle are quite deep in the nuts. Hopefully enough threads are engaged.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
DiDaDunlop said:
Are those no turn washers? I swapped them for bolts with normal washers. This because I found that there where only a few threads engaged with my solid axle (surly axle and surly no turn washers). When looking at the pictures I see that the ends of the axle are quite deep in the nuts. Hopefully enough threads are engaged.
Click to expand...
Those are Problem Solver axle nuts with attached washers that spin. They're a little too thick so I'm going to replace them with narrower ones made by Wheels Manufacturing.
 
#13 ·
customfab said:
given the same diameter and material grade a thick hollow tube will be stiffer than a solid chunk of material.

The OP's preference is what it is but it isn't because it's stiffer.
Click to expand...
Whatever difference in stiffness exists in favor of one or the other, it will be very, very small. What could potentially be noticeable is a large difference in the clamping force holding the dropout flat against the hub end caps, and so allowing less flex between the frame and wheels
 
#14 ·
hsakkire said:
Actually, I have done this with the front wheel. I liked this set up with my first generation Reba which can be a little flexy.

It seemed to help.

YMMV :)
Click to expand...
I did the same on a Stinky I used to own, QR's on a 150mm fork with a 8" rotor made me a little nervous so I swapped for a bolt on axle.
 
#16 ·
i recently had to convert my ultegra road hub back to qr from solid axle because i found the hub would not stat adjusted properly with the solid axle.

i did it to make a more solid ss hub but just found it wasn't worth the trouble.

after removing the hub a few times i would often times find the bearings overtightened.

i am not saying it won't work for you but it didn't for me...
 
#17 ·
max-a-mill said:
i recently had to convert my ultegra road hub back to qr from solid axle because i found the hub would not stat adjusted properly with the solid axle.

i did it to make a more solid ss hub but just found it wasn't worth the trouble.

after removing the hub a few times i would often times find the bearings overtightened.

i am not saying it won't work for you but it didn't for me...
Click to expand...
There shouldn't be any difference between a bolt on and QR, once the lock nuts are tightened up against the cones the only way a hub can "tighten" is the cones coming loose from the lock nuts. This would usually indicate that things were not tightened enough.

It should be noted that you do adjust the bearings slightly different for a bolt on than a QR. With a bolt on you should adjust them so there is no play but still turn freely...where as a QR you adjust them to have a hair of play in them.
 
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