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Best strategy to get a deal at your local bike store?

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#41 ·
Why should I go to the lbs and buy a $4000 bike when I can get a bike as good without paying half that, I dont' need the technology, I need a good bike that lets me know if I dont' improve its my fault, not because I didnt' get the latest gimmic, I have a 2010, $1900.00 bike with XTR componets that weighs 25 pounds with full suspension, I'm not a racer, if I was I'd have a sponsor and they would buy me the $5000.00+ bike. I just want to ride, and have money left to pay the bills.
Now comes the LBS argument, LBS's like to make money from internet sales but get upset when I buy a bike from the internet, I'll just get my parts and gear from the internet or another LBS that doesn't have a problem with my bike. I'll do my own maintance thank you. Happy Trails
 
#42 ·
Like I always say on these type of posts, if you want to name your pice, open your own bike shop. I love capitalism; if you don't like the price one shop has, go to another, or buy online, its that simple. The mark up on bikes is about 35% if I remember correctly from my days in a shop. Parts, clothing, and accessories are at least 100%...to make up for the lousy 35% on the bikes. People are in business to make money. Keep telling yourself that...its not about bro-deals and feeling good, its about making a living. When you mail order parts (as I do), do you think Pricepoint isn't marking that tube up? You buy for $4 and I bet they got it for less than a buck. I think everyone ought to get a basic business course in high school before they graduate.
 
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#45 ·
ianick said:
Read this, it's worth the time :)
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Is this the story about the the guy that got hit in the head with luggage? That jumped off the plane and quit his job, sounds like the same guy, in a different job setting, this is America, remember Capitalism? Only the strong survive, stop living in the past, you can't have it like it was, big business and the internet is working today, look at downtown in any city, or the family farm if you live in the country, the small shops/farms are abandonded, sure it was nice while it lasted but so were alot of things.
 
#46 ·
I don’t understand the kiss ass attitude that many people show towards the LBS. I am nice, respectful, and after they go above and beyond I show a sign of appreciation. My main sign of appreciation is loyalty to that shop. However I have been known to follow up with other signs such as beer or an invite to wakeboard on my boat for exceptional service. Frankly no one comes into my insurance agency with a case of beer or pizzas in hand trying to “buy” good service from me. I and the rest of the world have to provide good service first, then hope for loyalty or gratuity. There is an arrogance in some LBS's that I will never understand. I am lucky to have a few good ones in my area, with respectable people.

It is just like any other business, your sales volume will place you in the pecking order of service. If you buy two tubes and a bottle of lube a year the shops should treat you right, if you buy 5k a year of goods you get better service, if you’re the guy who buys three 10k bikes a year and doesn’t haggle price you’ll get the blow job, wipe your ass level of service. Give people a break and be realistic with your level, you would act the same way if you made your living from sales.

If you are looking to get a deal, just like any other industry, shop at end of season, money talks bullsh*t walks. Make an offer that you think is fair, stick to your guns, come back once a week and make the same offer till the bike is yours or it is gone. Be friendly, be nice, don’t be offended when your offer is declined, it is just the way it is.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
dblvanos said:
I don't understand the kiss ass attitude that many people show towards the LBS. I am nice, respectful, and after they go above and beyond I show a sign of appreciation. My main sign of appreciation is loyalty to that shop. However I have been known to follow up with other signs such as beer or an invite to wakeboard on my boat for exceptional service. Frankly no one comes into my insurance agency with a case of beer or pizzas in hand trying to "buy" good service from me. I and the rest of the world have to provide good service first, then hope for loyalty or gratuity. There is an arrogance in some LBS's that I will never understand. I am lucky to have a few good ones in my area, with respectable people.

It is just like any other business, your sales volume will place you in the pecking order of service. If you buy two tubes and a bottle of lube a year the shops should treat you right, if you buy 5k a year of goods you get better service, if you're the guy who buys three 10k bikes a year and doesn't haggle price you'll get the blow job, wipe your ass level of service. Give people a break and be realistic with your level, you would act the same way if you made your living from sales.

If you are looking to get a deal, just like any other industry, shop at end of season, money talks bullsh*t walks. Make an offer that you think is fair, stick to your guns, come back once a week and make the same offer till the bike is yours or it is gone. Be friendly, be nice, don't be offended when your offer is declined, it is just the way it is.
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+1 on everything you said. Except I think that I should get the BJ and wiping of my butt service by buying 2 10k bikes a year :D
 
#48 ·
Even though I am new to the MTB world I am not new to the retail sales world and feel compelled to offer my two cents on this topic. I have been the sales manager of a large, high volume marine dealership for a long time so I know all too well the ins and outs of negotiation. There has been some good advice in this thread. (as well as some pretty poor advice which often seems far more common in conversations like this)

Everybody wants to feel like they are getting good value for their hard earned money which we in the sales business understand. What the customer needs to understand is that the shop needs to stay in business as well. The analogy of your boss calling you in to negotiate your pay every week is a good one. You would probably be unhappy about it, you may agree to work for less but eventually you will reach a point where you can no longer justify doing the job for the compensation offered. For some reason everybody expects to get paid when they go to work but many buyers expect retailers to sell them everything for no profit, essentially 'not getting paid to work'

A good sales person has to know how to properly handle the negotiating process as to avoid any animosity arising. It can easily get out of hand and leave both customer and seller in an uncomfortable state assuring that the customer never returns. This is what the shop wants to avoid at all costs. That is one of the primary reasons that some places have a 'no haggle' policy. Its not that they are unwilling to give a discount, they just don't want their sales people to get into an uncomfortable situation with a customer. That is why they start with competitive pricing and offer advertised sales and incentives to everybody.

Since there has been some good advice here about how to get a 'good deal' I will offer some advice about what not to do.

First and foremost don't say "how much if I pay CASH" There is only one form of legal tender in the United States, CASH. (unless you are intending to barter and most places are not willing to trade for goats or raccoon pelts) Yes, I know that credit card companies charge for their use but the seller can handle that or they just won't accept credit cards at all. When you say "how much if I pay CASH" you just sound foolish.

Second, don't start out immediately talking about price. A good sales person will see exactly what you are trying to do and you will just end up buying something that you might not even want or that might be all wrong for you, but hey, at least you got cheap!

Finally, don't pretend to be an expert on something that you know little or nothing about. If you are knowledgeable about what you are after it will show in your conversation, if not you will simply sound like an idiot. If you don't know exactly what you are after, trust your sales person. Chances are very good that they know better than you do what will work best for you. If you don't think you can trust your sales person or feel that they are not knowledgeable enough politely thank them and leave. Either find another dealer or come back another time and try to speak with a different sales person.
 
#49 ·
Buy online, if price is your major factor. I am sure you can get the bike you want cheaper that way. I buy my bikes online and the LBS that works on my bikes could careless. You ride three- four days a week and race and work full time, you are going to be spending money at the LBS. I do not have the time to keep my bikes up 100%, he knows I will be in a couple times a month getting stuff fixed that I break or replaced and knows I send people to him.
 
#50 ·
Wankel7 said:
Recently learned how much markup there is on small things. A tube at a local shop was $7. Cost was about $1.75. That is ridiculous.
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I love it when people who don't know anything about retail sales say a standard markup is ridiculous.
 
#52 ·
Buy online if you can or build it yourself and go to the local LBS for something major if you do not have the tools. Thanks to Google and millions of people it is heaven for DYI people around the world.
 
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#53 ·
the best tips are if buying through a lbs you will usually get better deal with cash. plan to buy during the fall season, or most shops will have a couple leftovers 1 or 2 models yrs old still new on the floor witch will have the most haggle room often you can get at close to cost sometimes even below cost depending. for the newest models dont exspect much because unlike parts complete bikes dont have much mark up or profit.an example from a shop i worked at was like 40% of the msrp was profit out of that 40 % you still had to subtract shipping and for the mechanic to properly unpack and assemble.so on the cheaper models say a bike that was 299. you have 120 profit minus the above doesnt leave much left for the shop a little more room the more exspensive the bike.
 
#54 ·
I went at closer to the end of the season, & I told them the price range I wanted to stay in right off the bat. Luckily they had a bike my size, that had been sitting on the floor for a while. Price came down a good amount to match what i was wanting to spend.
Worked out nicely.
 
#55 ·
Develop a relationship with your shop. Doing things like checking a price with them then ordering online doesn't do it. I've been loyal to a particular shop for sometime now. When I need a part I call or stop by, I don't haggle prices. When I was helmet shopping, I stopped by to try a few on. The one I liked best turned out to be out of my price range so we tried to find the cheaper model that fit my price range. We couldn't find it so the shop offered to meet me half way on the other. I bought it. Other times I might say "I've got a $500 budget and need some new wheels. What can you hook me up with?" I left with a $700 set of wheels.
 
#56 ·
Beer goes along way with my LBS. Start bringing in a cold 6'r around closing time every time you go in. You gain a few new friends and insight into some cool trails.

I haven't paid retail for anything in over 20 yrs but that's 20 yrs at the same LBS, I probably spend $30-$50 on beer every month in the summer for them. Occasionally I stop in with home made pizzas.

You all are going about this the wrong way, it's not about a price or discount. It about a mutual relationship you choose to have. My auto mechanic, my tailor, and my IT guy, I treat all the same way. They are like family.
 
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#57 ·
manabiker said:
Why should I go to the lbs and buy a $4000 bike when I can get a bike as good without paying half that, I dont' need the technology, I need a good bike that lets me know if I dont' improve its my fault, not because I didnt' get the latest gimmic, I have a 2010, $1900.00 bike with XTR componets that weighs 25 pounds with full suspension, I'm not a racer, if I was I'd have a sponsor and they would buy me the $5000.00+ bike. I just want to ride, and have money left to pay the bills.
Now comes the LBS argument, LBS's like to make money from internet sales but get upset when I buy a bike from the internet, I'll just get my parts and gear from the internet or another LBS that doesn't have a problem with my bike. I'll do my own maintance thank you. Happy Trails
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Because the suspension design on that Fantom Team you bought sucks, it relies on the shock platform to prevent bobbing which effects all other sorts of ride characteristics. You could have gotten a little less bike (XT/Deore mix) at the LBS and gotten something that rides a lot better for the same price.

Don't get me wrong, I have a couple of off brand hard tail frames lying around, but for a FS bike I would never buy one without a suspension design I've ridden and know works well. Of course that means I'm stuck with $3k+ bikes because I love how the DW-link feels, even though the maestro suspension found on Giants is comparable for me.
 
#58 ·
Scout out the MSRP on the bike you want. Decide what you want to pay. Come in with that exact amount cash. After you let the sales person or manager try to sell you the bike. Say you want it and you have $xxxx.xx in cash and you will buy it right now if they will take the cash.

Cash is king.
 
#59 ·
space said:
Because the suspension design on that Fantom Team you bought sucks, it relies on the shock platform to prevent bobbing which effects all other sorts of ride characteristics. You could have gotten a little less bike (XT/Deore mix) at the LBS and gotten something that rides a lot better for the same price.

Don't get me wrong, I have a couple of off brand hard tail frames lying around, but for a FS bike I would never buy one without a suspension design I've ridden and know works well. Of course that means I'm stuck with $3k+ bikes because I love how the DW-link feels, even though the maestro suspension found on Giants is comparable for me.
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Coming from a KHS hard tail, this bike that sucks to you feels great to me, I'm not racing, I'm riding for fun and conditioning, I don't care about how this or that works, bottom line is it works for me, and with my motocross, flat track, hare scramble, ice racing, back ground from the 70's and 80's , I've got it working to my liking, and I had a motobecane Fantom Comp, before this one so I didnt' buy one without trying it, I keep improving my lap times everytime out and my stamina.
Sounds like you work at a bike shop, or own one, and don't like internet bike buying, to bad, get used to it..go feel your bikes, I'll ride mine..I'm 64 yrs old, ride 80 to 100+ miles a week on ruff Michigan trails, these bikes suit me just fine. These bikes have more suspension then my motocross bikes had in the 70's and weigh 200 pounds less. And I had a Motobecane then too, had it for 35 years. keep your technology, I'll keep my Motobecanes..Not everybody needs the latest gadget to enjoy riding, that technology only keeps the prices of new bikes at the local bike shop in the rediculous price range..
Bob Hannah rode the best technology in MX bikes when he raced, others cried, "unfair advantage" Bob took a box stock showroom bike and won Outdoor National MX events with that stocker, it's up to the rider, not the technology.. I hope everyone out there is still riding when their 64..Happy Trails to you all...
 
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