Thanks for the words, guys...
I have been meaning to get some shop pics on here for a little bit. I agree with Walt that many of us newbies get caught up in needing the tools the pros use. Jigs, in particular, are completely unnecessary for a hobbiest. I spoke with Doug Fattic last year about his flat plate fixture and really liked his approach. I would have purchased one, but determined that it wasn't the best for wierd geometry. The pieces you see are made to support my process. But, the process has to develop....and that takes a few frames. I'm working on #14 and the process is still developing. And I suspect will continue to do so for a while. I have recently built a fok jig out of 8020, and that works well. I made a rear-end jig to hold the front triangle in place while I fit and braze the chainstays. I did go the 8020 jig route in the beginning, but the jig setup was was too complicated. I didn't know enough about how to build a bike before I made the jig. Putting the cart before the horse.
Note that I'm not a frame school graduate, so this might be different if you are. I do have access to a really good builder, who is amazingly open with advice. But I built my first FSO before I went to his shop (as someone seeking advice, I jhad been there plenty of times drooling over his work).
Peter, I'll try to get some close ups of the fillets. Honestly, I'm proud of the fillets, but there is still plenty of room for improvement. I'm still getting my mind around you writing "brazing" and "sweet" in the same sentence!
The belt-miter machine is my own design. James M from Hawaii has a nice website with good pics and explainations of his belt miter machine. I used his for inspiration. The "rollers" (dies) are the hard part if you don't have access to a machine shop. The rear roller is a conveyor roller. The motor has an arbor chuck so that you can remove the shaft and replace the roller in about 2 minutes. I love this thing...it's my favorite tool. I rough-cut the miters with a hack saw, and finish on the belt. I can adjust the support table to whatever angle I need. The miters are always spot-on. With the little tube blocks that you can see in one of those pics (I got them from Alex Meade), I can miter both ends of the DT 90° out of phase perfectly and test fit in the "jig" without removing the blocks.
The HF roller is good. It's a tube roller...not so complicated. However, the dies it comes with are too big for frame tubes for the most part (they are useable, but they put a crease in the side of the tube...which can be looked at as a "feature"). They sell some square tube rollers pretty cheap that make great blanks for machining different sizes. I machined a "V" in the square tube rollers for the smaller tubes. This creased the tubes in the "V", so I wrapped some bailing wire in the base of the "V" to further support the tube. This did the trick and small dia thin tubing can be rolled easily.
Ummm...I think that's it.
Oh... the Caddy. We used to have a sweet '73 Thing. But then kid #3 came along. Squeeze points out we all can't fit into the Thing, so it should go (Doh!). But, then she says she'd like a big, giant Caddy. Yes, dear, the Thing is for sale. We sold the Thing, and purchased the Caddy and did all the work for even $$$. That project proceeded the framebuilding, and it was huge. We had to replace all of the floor, both of the rear fender arches, the front fender rockers. While we had it torn apart, we smoothed the trim on the sides and shaved the door handles. We did all of the body work and brought it to Maaco to paint. It came out nice for what it is: an ice cream run car. Here's a couple of pics.
Should you have any questions, give me q holler. As you can see, more than happy to e-chat.
B