I love riding my SS, I have always enjoyed the simplicity. However, I don't think I can deal with chain tensioners any longer! I don't have a high dollar budget for my SS. I had a Voodoo Dambala, that I really liked. But I kept getting the rear wheel to slip in the sliding dropouts. I ride my SS the same places I ride my FS. I admit that I am harsh on my bikes. Now I have a Soul Cycles Dillinger with an EBB. I like the idea of the EBB, but again, the execution is just not up to the task. I have followed the myriad of posts here about fixes, but none that I can do have helped. I don't huck my SS, but I do air it out when possible, and a lot of the climbs are very torque inducing. I am probably a blasphemer for considering this, but would a dedicated geared frame with a YESS ETR/B be a more consistent performer? Or would they fold under the pressure? I am thinking of an EMD, or Bandersnatch (if I go back to steel). One of the main reasons I love SS is the simplicity, but I spend more time messing with chain tensioning issues than any FS bike I have had. Any constructive thoughts are welcome.
I am a blasphemer
Coach417
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Joined
·
439 Posts
Constant struggle
I have agonized about this issue for so long and had so many problems that it has become a bit of a joke with my riding partners. I regularly get the "I thought singlespeeds were supposed to be low maintenance." jibe from my friends. The only set up with which I have been able to finish a ride sporting the same tension that I started with has been horizontals with a chain tug, but the disc side likes to shift under braking on those.
The only trouble free singlespeeds I have run have been geared frames run with my Melvin from Paul. I know this is appallingly against the grain around here, but if I was doing a custom singlespeed frame I would build it around that tensioning option and have a drivetrain that never needs adjusting together with fixed geometry.
I have agonized about this issue for so long and had so many problems that it has become a bit of a joke with my riding partners. I regularly get the "I thought singlespeeds were supposed to be low maintenance." jibe from my friends. The only set up with which I have been able to finish a ride sporting the same tension that I started with has been horizontals with a chain tug, but the disc side likes to shift under braking on those.
The only trouble free singlespeeds I have run have been geared frames run with my Melvin from Paul. I know this is appallingly against the grain around here, but if I was doing a custom singlespeed frame I would build it around that tensioning option and have a drivetrain that never needs adjusting together with fixed geometry.
Joined
·
2,080 Posts
I would add a SS frame with a split shell EBB. No other EBB works as well and the rest of the bike is standard; however it takes a little more work to build (the frame maker has to split the BB shell himself and brase on the bolt bosses) and can only be used on a steel frame. Other than that I would agree that a derialleur (or Melvin) does the best job of tensioning a chainLord Humongous said:
Joined
·
1,809 Posts
does anyone have any pics of surly chain tugs on semi horizontal frames?
Joined
·
837 Posts
I have not tried it on an EBB, but try using either thread anti-seize or pipe thread sealant (pipe dope) on the EBB interface with the frame instead of grease. Both will still prevent corrosion and creaking, but are not slippery like grease. I have used both of them on threaded BB's that kept coming loose, slipping seatposts, and a few other interfaces that are usually greased.
If you feel the need for a new frame, as several have mentioned, horizontal track ends with tensioners will definitely not slip. Use tensioners on both sides. Or get a frame with sliding dropouts that has tensioner screws. The tensioner screws are the same concept and track ends with tensioners and the axle cannot slip forward.
If you feel the need for a new frame, as several have mentioned, horizontal track ends with tensioners will definitely not slip. Use tensioners on both sides. Or get a frame with sliding dropouts that has tensioner screws. The tensioner screws are the same concept and track ends with tensioners and the axle cannot slip forward.
Joined
·
6,359 Posts
It doesn't 'attach', you slide the QR or bolt through the hole and tighten a thumb screw which is threaded to a 'stop' which pushes on the track end. Pretty simple setup.agabriel said:
Hi Coach! Is your Dillinger the latest generation (Gen3), with the anodized EBBs? If not, maybe you can contact Chad @ Soul and see if they can offer a solution to the slippage.Coach417 said:
I read that they improved the EBB from the previous generation.
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
