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gtjeff

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I want to build a spare bike out of parts I have hanging around. I have been looking on ebay recently and checking craigslist. I have come up with nothing in a medium frame. I have not seen much in the used bike area either. Is there an online dealer who carries GT frames? Will GT just sell frames to a lbs? I would probably be looking for a basic hardtail frame like an Avalanche and I do not want to break the bank either. What other models would have a similiar fit to the avalanche? If I can not come up with anything I might just buy a Reken frame.

I have a 2007 Avalanche with some upgrades and I love how the bike fits and handles, much better than my 2010 Hardrock.

I want to use my 2007 Avalanche for xc, this new build to leave at the gf's beach cottage, and keep the Hardrock for paved trails and dirt roads.

Thanks for any help you can give me.
 
#2 ·
If it's just a second bike your best to hit craigs or eBay....they do pop up from time to time. Frame only's are currently offered but from time to time there are NOS frames listed that shops strip the parts off of.
 
#6 ·
I'm in the same situation. I have a mid 90's avalanche I use for XC, but I want to build a SS fun bike to ride with my kids. I've been looking for a medium Ruckus hardtail frame or even a newer Avalanche frame, but no luck. I comb Ebay and CL daily and nothing yet. I think I'm just gonna get a Sette Shadow frame to tide me over until I can get my hands on Ruckus.
 
#8 ·
gm1230126 said:
? not sure how you guys are searching but seriously there is more listed right now than any other time of the year.
Click to expand...
I'm watching an '04 avalanche frame right now, but would really like something newer. There are a few Chucker bikes listed too, but I just want/need a frame.
 
#10 ·
I have gotten two of my three GTs from CL and one from eBay. They took me a couple weeks to a couple months to come across, since I knew what I wanted. Just stay patient and keep a look out. I am not even looking to buy another bike right now, but I keep checking eBay and CL everyday just in case I come across a sweet deal. Maybe try expanding your CL search to neighboring cities?
 
#12 · (Edited)
Avalanche 1.0 frames at chainreactioncycles

I'm resurrecting this thread in case anyone is interested. chainreactioncycles.com has Avalanche 1.0 frames for sale in various colors/sizes for around $140 plus shipping which is usually reasonable. If you spend over $244 it ships free. The website didn't have pics, or specify years, but a call or email would find that out.:)

Just a quick edit on 1/4/10 to mention that if you use paypal to pay at chainreaction, paypal will charge you a fee for exchanging Dollars to pounds. There's no mention of this before paying, and it's a hassle and delay to get a refund, so I recommend using a debit or credit card.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
chanorama said:
I'm resurrecting this thread in case anyone is interested. chainreactioncycles.com has Avalanche 1.0 frames for sale in various colors/sizes for around $140 plus shipping which is usually reasonable. If you spend over $244 it ships free. The website didn't have pics, or specify years, but a call or email would find that out.:)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the find. I will look into this.
 
#15 · (Edited)
That Psyclone is a handcrafted thing of beauty! I know that is a vintage frame, but do bike builders still braze? I thought filleted brazing was a dead art because of the manhours involved and a fundamental misunderstanding of brazing versus welding. You got another Gem GM! Kudos...
 
#16 ·
Thanks chanorama....Many of the worlds best builders continue to fillet braze. Have you seen any photos from the North American Hand built show the past four years. Amazing some of the bikes the custom builders are brazing. Not a dead art, very lively.
 
#17 · (Edited)
It's good to know that brazing's not dead. I haven't paid much attention to high-end bike craft, I confess. Not for any particular reason, just focused on my humble projects.

Since I got the thread off topic, I'll get it back on with an update to my earlier post on the Avalanche frames at chainreactioncycles.com. The 1.0 frames are 2009, and as of this writing, they have Olive Green in M/L/XL, and Steel Grey in L/XL in stock for 133.23 and 24.19 shipping. Keep in mind, this may fluctuate a little depending on the current exchange rate. I do not work for nor am I affiliated in any way with chain reaction.

*edit on 1-12-09. FYI, GT Sizes run big, so you may need a smaller frame than you think. Med is 18.34" ctr/BB to top of seat tube.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
I think I am going to buy the frame tomorrow. I wish I could afford the expert frame, but this will be nice.
I think I am going to end up getting rid of my Hardrock, I really like the sram components but the frame does not fit me well. With this the plan is to build a decent bike with this frame. XC use mainly, but something that can do some small drops would be nice. I want to move my Marizochi 33 fork from my 07 Avalanche to this new frame. (I have my orinigal fork to put back on this for a while).
What headset style, size, etc should I buy for this frame?
The frame has a BB size of 298mm, what size BB should I buy?
Whats a good wheel set in the $100-$150 range? I want something durable but somewhat light.
I am planning on buying the sram x.7 build kit from pricepoint, unless anyone can recommend something else close in price ($230). I do like SRAM better than Shimano in the limited use of both I have had, but I could go Shimano.
Brakes either BB7s or Hayes MX-2s.

I know I have noob questions on the build. I used to bike a lot until I was 16, then when I was 27 got the GT Avalanche 3.0. I have gotten my passion back for biking.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Jeff, The 09 Avalanche headset is the press fit semi-integrated style headset. Also sometimes referred to as "zero stack" What that means is the bearing cups sit inside the head tube, and have very little "stack height" or in other words very little of the cup sticks out of either end of the head tube. It can be confusing as there are a few very similar styles, but the diameter of the cups where they fit into the tube is 44mm. Usually the O.D. of the frame's headtube is 50mm, and the I.D. of course is 44mm.

The 298mm BB number listed at the website is probably the BB height with the stock fork. Most likely it's a 68mm wide shell. If it's not 68, it'll be 73mm as those 2 are the standards. If you buy a complete integrated style crankset, the BB cups come with it, and it'll work in 68 or 73 with the spacers included. Chainline is an important factor when choosing a derailleur. Most (if not all) integrated cranksets use a minimum 50mm chainline, so you need a derailleur that works with that chainline. I don't know about SRAM Fronts, but be careful when you are choosing a Shimano FD. if you use a newer Integrated crank, don't choose an older (4 or 5 or more yrs) Shimano derailleur, as those were 47.5mm compatible. An older Shimano FD may work with a newer style crankset, but you're likely to have issues.

For brakes, definitely BB7's, I use them on most of my bikes, and BB5 on the other. Either 5 or 7 is a great choice. The 7's offer more pad adjustability.

For wheels, If you plan to drop, Wheels will be heavy if cheap, and expensive if light. That said, there are some decent choices out there. I'll look around. Azonic Outlaws are a proven wheel, versatile, comparatively light, and can be found for $150-200 if you look around.

I'll look at the X7 build kit and see if it's a good match for the 'Lanche.

Are you going to attempt any of the work yourself? If so, I can tell you what tools to buy. I'll answer any questions you have, just PM me.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Jeff, I looked at the X7 kit. It looks like a good deal, but the only thing that might be an issue is the front derailleur.

Here's a quick course on front derailleurs. There are 3 things to know. Pull, Clamp, Swing. Most newer Front derailleurs are dual pull, and multi clamp. Dual pull means the cable can be pulled from the top of the frame or the bottom of the frame. Multi clamp has a 34.9mm clamp and uses shims to fit smaller tubes. Older derailleurs are pull specific (top or bottom but not both) and clamp specific (only fit a certain size seat tube) Swing is still specific. A front derailleur is either top swing or bottom swing. Clamp position is relative to swing type. For example a low clamp is a top swing, and a high clamp is a bottom swing.

When looking at front derailleurs, you need to know what your frame requires. First is clamp size: the 'Lanche is 31.8mm. Second is pull: 'Lanche is "top pull" Third is swing: For hardtails I prefer a "top swing" A lot of Full Susp bikes need a "bottom swing"

You definitely need a top pull type (or dual pull which can go either way), and in my opinion, you also should get a top swing type. From the picture, I think it's dual pull, but it definitely shows a bottom swing type. That may not be an issue, depending on the size of your frame. If you have at least a medium or larger frame, a bottom swing type is OK. With small and XS frames, cable angles get extreme. That said I prefer the better cable angle and cleaner look of the top swing like this one:
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/15...-105_SRA7L7-3-Parts-57-Derailleurs/Sram-X.7-Front-Derailleur-Low-Clamp-2009.htm

I'd see if you can sub this derailleur for the one in the kit. It's an X7 too.

If you're going to do a lot of climbing, get the 11-34 cassette, if not go with 11-32.

Get the long cage rear derailleur, unless you are going with a bashguard/32/22 crankset combo. If you are going with a Bash/32/22, the long cage will work, but the medium cage will give more ground clearance, and possibly a bit crisper shifts.
 
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