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Tubeless - slow leak

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Sinker

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I switched to ghetto tubeless early spring '09 and have had no problems and NO FLATS.

FYI: Panaracer Fire XC Pro (127tpi)/Bontrager Ranger rims/GF HiFi.

I've got a slow leak in my rear tire; dropping from 25 to 15psi over about 48hours. I've got fresh Stan's, and the leak is slow enough that I don't see any bubbles when I put the tire in water. I can't find a thorn or any visible damage.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
 
#3 ·
If you broke a seal to add Stan's, the rimstrip may have not been successfully pinched back between the rim and bead after airing things back up. Since the seal between the strip and tire is now compromised, air makes its way beneath the strip and out of the spoke holes and valve stem. Should be visible when you dunk the tire underwater to look for bubbles, though.
 
#5 ·
Sinker said:
I switched to ghetto tubeless early spring '09 and have had no problems and NO FLATS.

FYI: Panaracer Fire XC Pro (127tpi)/Bontrager Ranger rims/GF HiFi.

I've got a slow leak in my rear tire; dropping from 25 to 15psi over about 48hours. I've got fresh Stan's, and the leak is slow enough that I don't see any bubbles when I put the tire in water. I can't find a thorn or any visible damage.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
Click to expand...
Probably have got some leakage through the tire casing...

Put it in the tub and carefully wipe off the bubbles on the tire casing leave it a few minutes and see if a few of them come back.....

Fix well for me it is a new tire, seems to happen now and then...

Also try the same trick on the valve stem, and spoke holes...

Start with tire at max inflation pressure....to enhance the leak.
 
#6 ·
jeffscott said:
Start with tire at max inflation pressure....to enhance the leak.
Click to expand...
NOT THE MAX PRESSURE ON THE SIDEWALL OF THE TIRE!!!:nono:

When Stan's started the DIY tubeless it was advised to not go over 40psi. I always air my ghetto tubeless setups to 35psi, then check for leaks and shake around the sealant. Then I set my pressure to 25-30psi to ride.

I would only go to a max of 40psi and probably only to 35psi just to be sure to check for leaks unless you want to risk blowing a tire off the bead.:mad:
 
#7 · (Edited)
twowheelsdown2002 said:
NOT THE MAX PRESSURE ON THE SIDEWALL OF THE TIRE!!!:nono:

When Stan's started the DIY tubeless it was advised to not go over 40psi. I always air my ghetto tubeless setups to 35psi, then check for leaks and shake around the sealant. Then I set my pressure to 25-30psi to ride.

I would only go to a max of 40psi and probably only to 35psi just to be sure to check for leaks unless you want to risk blowing a tire off the bead.:mad:
Click to expand...
http://www.notubes.com/product_info.php/cPath/487_489/products_id/467

Scroll down to rim max inflation pressures.

Hey read the post I said tire at max inflation pressure....sometimes that is the max TIRE inflation pressure...

somtimes it is the rim max inflation pressure...

but in all cases it is the max inflation pressure.
 
#8 ·
jeffscott said:
http://www.notubes.com/product_info.php/cPath/487_489/products_id/467

Scroll down to rim max inflation pressures.

Hey read the post I said tire at max inflation pressure....sometimes that is the max TIRE inflation pressure...

somtimes it is the rim max inflation pressure...

but in all cases it is the max inflation pressure.
Click to expand...
He is not using a Stan's rim, he is using "ghetto tubeless".:nono: This is why I suggest he not inflate to a high pressure.

He is not seating a UST tire to a UST rim, and he is not using a specially designed Stan's rim, so with a regular rim I would suggest not pushing the issue with the pressure.

Read the paragraph below taken directly from the "NoTubes" website, and notice the part about not exceeding 40psi::nono:

Procedure (Optional Applicators - see photo 7 or 8) If you have our 2oz bottle or Injector, carefully remove your valve core with a pair of pliers, fill the bottle/injector with sealant and inject the sealant through the valve stem. Re-install the valve core and tighten with pliers. Note: If you have the Injector, review instructions before use! Procedure (Inflation) Hang the tire with valve stem at the top or side (see photo 3 ), inflate the tire to 35-40 psi (never inflate over 40 psi). Rotate the tire so the sealant can seal the entire inside of the tire. Re-apply the soap & water solution to the side walls. The soap & water solution will bubble where the leaks are. Simply rotate the tire and seal these areas. Do the largest leaks first and then work your way to the smaller ones. Proceed to step 5 to properly seal your tires; tire will leak if not sealed properly!
 
#10 ·
twowheelsdown2002 said:
Here is the link to the site regarding DIY tubeless inflation pressure.

http://www.notubes.com/support_detailed.php

See the end of section 4.
Click to expand...
So your saying his max inflation pressure for his rim is 40 psi regarless of tire size....

I guess that makes some since, but really we know it depends on tire size...

Any way inflate to make inflation pressure
 
#11 ·
jeffscott said:
So your saying his max inflation pressure for his rim is 40 psi regarless of tire size....

I guess that makes some since, but really we know it depends on tire size...

Any way inflate to make inflation pressure
Click to expand...
The reason I go with 40psi max is because a split 20" tube is almost identical to the process used with a Stan's rim strip. Both are basically a rubber strip creating a seal to the bead of a regular tire. No matter the tire size, a DIY tubeless setup does not need a lot of pressure to seat.

I figure Stan's must have done some testing and probably blown some tires off of some rims, to come up with that psi recommendation. So that is what I have stuck with on my ghetto setups.

I believe that it also does not stretch and weaken the tire bead as much as well, and the rubber strip does not need much pressure to seal, unlike a UST bead that sometimes takes a fair amount of pressure to get it to pop into place.

The only time I have ever had a ghetto setup blow off the rim is when my gauge malfunctioned and I inflated to 60psi thinking I was setting the pressure to 28psi. It came off during a slow, technical downhill. I have never had any other tire come off following the 40psi guideline.:thumbsup:

I don't want to come off like a "know it all", but I just don't want the guy to inflate to a high pressure unnecessarily, and end up with the tire blown off in his face.:nono:
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Update from OP.

1st, I got corrected. I don't run 'ghetto' tubeless, I actually did a Stan's conversion with the official rim strip, etc. I confused 'ghetto' with 'non-UST.'

2nd, I think I fixed my slow leak. I couldn't find a leak, so I just 'refreshed' my Stan's sealant and everything seems fine.
 
#13 ·
Sinker said:
Update from OP.

1st, I got corrected. I don't run 'ghetto' tubeless, I actually did a Stan's conversion with the official rim strip, etc. I confused 'ghetto' with 'non-UST.'

2nd, I think I fixed my slow leak. I couldn't find a leak, so I just 'refreshed' my Stan's sealant and everything seems fine.
Click to expand...
Not much practical difference between "ghetto tubeless" and Stan's strip. One is just a commercialized version.

Unfortunately, Stan's does dry up, especially in hot weather. As does CaffeLatex. I will see how long my homebrew holds up. It certainly seals holes better than the spendy CrappeExlax.;)
 
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twowheelsdown2002
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