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Armystrong

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am new to this forum and have search for relavent topics to the question I have. Recently I bought a Caloi MTB and a 2006 Gary Fisher Advance MTB from a Garage sale for $200 total. The GF MTB is in excellent condition and needs nothing done to it.

The Caloi on the other hand........well since I am new to doing MTB maintenance on my own, last week the front derailer a Shimano FD-M567 broke. From my understanding and the little bit of research I have done, it is a Top Pull, Top Swing Arm front derailer. I understand what this means but what I don't know is what can I replace this Shimano FD with. Can I get any top pull, top swing or top pull, bottom swing front derailer or Do I have to specifically stick with the FD-M567 Deore LX? By the way the crank has 3 sprockets/rings.

Last question, if there is a little crack near the seat post are (may be wrong terminology, near where the seat post goes into the frame) can it be tig welded? It says its aluminum frame.

Thanks for all the help
Jim
 
#2 ·
Oh boy.

Don't ride the bike. Do yourself a favor, and scavenge parts from it, and send it off to somewhere never to be seen again. Not trying to be a jerk here, but that frame ain't worth it.

You "COULD" get it welded, but you would have to strip the area, get it welded, then send it off to be heat treated, then paint it. It would literally cost you more than buying the bike new all over again.

Oh yeah. Forget the derailleur too. Stick with the Gary Fisher.
 
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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Fix it?

My intent is to give this bike to my daughter who only rides on the sidewalk and some dirt roads. The hairline or "black line" below the seat post does not seem to be of any risk or safety issue. The components on the bike are all Deore Lx and in good shape except for this derailer. Any help on the derailer.

This was a smooth perfectly good working MTB until the FD broke last week. I really don't want to take it to the bike shop to have a new one installed when all it takes is a 5mm allen key and a couple adjustments. I was hoping someone on the forum would be able to tell me a substitute for the FD.

BTW, the Gary Fisher is my sons bike. Each one of us in the family have a MTB and this is the first time a component has broke on me so I was seeing if you all could help.
Thank You
 
#5 ·
Personally I wouldn't ride a cracked frame. Period. Can't even imagine giving one to my child (I'm single and childless FWIW).

OTOH if you know what the derailleur's parameters are, what's the question on how to find a suitable replacement? You sure it's a top pull? What's the clamp position, i.e how you determined that it's a top swing or bottom swing?
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
On the "cracked frame" issue. This is a small hairline crack, at least that is what it appears to be, right below the very top of the seat post tube. If this small crack was anyhwere else on the frame, it would be trash!!! and I more than likely wouldn't be asking any questions. But since there is 9 more inches of seat post going into the frame, this little crack is the least of my worries. The risk assessment on this has been tallied and with 20 years of safety and risk analysis in the Army, I feel my daughter and this bike are safe. Whether its her, me or someone else, the risk is extremely low that something would happen to the frame because of its location.....extremely low. Thanks though.

When I looked at the FD-M567 on the internet it told me it was a Top pull, Top swing arm, with a clamp size (read this on the inside of the clamp) of 31.9.

My question is.......what other front derailers would meet these same specifications and do the trick? There are XT, XTR, LX and other levels of Shimano derailers that I don't know if they would be interchangeable. That is what I am really searching for. I appreciate any help you can give me in regards to this question.
 
#7 ·
Armystrong said:
On the "cracked frame" issue. This is a small hairline crack, at least that is what it appears to be, right below the very top of the seat post tube. If this small crack was anyhwere else on the frame, it would be trash!!! and I more than likely wouldn't be asking any questions. But since there is 9 more inches of seat post going into the frame, this little crack is the least of my worries. The risk assessment on this has been tallied and with 20 years of safety and risk analysis in the Army, I feel my daughter and this bike are safe. Whether its her, me or someone else, the risk is extremely low that something would happen to the frame because of its location.....extremely low. Thanks though.

When I looked at the FD-M567 on the internet it told me it was a Top pull, Top swing arm, with a clamp size (read this on the inside of the clamp) of 31.9.

My question is.......what other front derailers would meet these same specifications and do the trick? There are XT, XTR, LX and other levels of Shimano derailers that I don't know if they would be interchangeable. That is what I am really searching for. I appreciate any help you can give me in regards to this question.
Click to expand...
So is the derailleur you've got now a top pull or bottom pull? Do you know the difference?
Is it a top swing or bottom swing? I'm not talking about some search you did, what are you looking at? Once you're sure, buy the appropriate match...what's so hard? If you can determine whether a crack in a frame is important or not, this should be cake. The Army has proven time and again how infallible it is...
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
WOW!
Maybe I am missing something here.
I am asking for someones expert advice on Front Derailers. This is a Shimano FD-M567 Top Pull, Top Swing Arm, with a clamp size of 31.9.......as posted 2 other times. I do know the difference now after purchasing a bottom pull top swing arm FD. Now that I have educated myself to a certain extent, I am asking for some more experienced help.

As far as the Army being "Infallible," ......so far your efforts at reviewing this thread and providing a new user with help or guidance has proven to be futile.....
 
#9 ·
You can get any top swing top pull FD for your bike. If you want to stick with shimano LX is the cheapest then xt, xtr. Each model will change the numbers, just verify it is a top swing top pull and it will work. Just make sure you get the same clamp size. This years LX is a FD-M580A, and it is a top swing, dual pull. A dual pull means the cable can be a top or bottom pull. Hope this helps.
 
#10 ·
musg8411 said:
You can get any top swing top pull FD for your bike. If you want to stick with shimano LX is the cheapest then xt, xtr. Each model will change the numbers, just verify it is a top swing top pull and it will work. Just make sure you get the same clamp size. This years LX is a FD-M580A, and it is a top swing, dual pull. A dual pull means the cable can be a top or bottom pull. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
+1

Just go pick up another Deore LX, or hell, go buy an XT, and when the bike is toast, make sure that derailleur winds up on YOUR bike. Just make sure the clamp size is the same.

Here's a link
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_200300_-1_200296_200276_200379
It's an SRAM, but it'll work perfectly for what you need, and its compatible.

By the way, Thank you for your service in our Army. I did my three years, and the Army is far from "Infallible". Don't be rude when the guy asking questions is providing the freedom you breathe.
 
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
Thanks so much for the information. This should get me started. I wasn't sure about the XT or XTR FDs. But with the information you have given me I can do some more searches. Thank You for the link and most of all Thank You for your Service.
Take Care
 
#12 · (Edited)
No problem...Let us know how it goes!

Stay safe.

.edit. This was not in response to your post about cutting the seatpost. This was for the front derailleur.We posted at the same time.

The problem with cutting the frame and adding a new slot, is that you'll be cutting into the welds for the seatstays (the two tubes leading from the seat to the rear wheel), and thats a high stress area. I don't know what the outcome would be, but I wouldn't want to be riding the bike when I found out. I would do like I originally suggested and strip the parts for spares, and ditch the frame. You can always a find another cheap frame and throw the parts on if they're compatible.

This frame is dirt cheap and well regarded here.
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/19.../detail/19505-175_SETRK9-3-Parts-60-Frames/Sette-Reken-Hardtail-Alloy-Frame.htm
 
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#13 ·
Glad you figured out the FD...

Cracked frame interesting, you need an 8X magnifying glass to check for cracks...

Not sure where the frame came from but if it has one crack it might have others...

Carefully check all the other welds....you never know...Are there any clicks and squeaks??? when the big guy rides the bike?
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Asking for your thoughts/opinions.

jeffscott said:
Glad you figured out the FD...

Cracked frame interesting, you need an 8X magnifying glass to check for cracks...

Not sure where the frame came from but if it has one crack it might have others...

Carefully check all the other welds....you never know...Are there any clicks and squeaks??? when the big guy rides the bike?
Click to expand...
Well after closer observation, this little crack might be more than what I thought. Now I am not sure I want to do much with this frame. Perhaps I can cut this right below the seat stay crack, add another expansion cut with hole..........What are your thoughts? Here are a couple pictures?
Image

Image

Thanks
Jim
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
quietcornerrider said:
No problem...Let us know how it goes!

Stay safe.

.edit. This was not in response to your post about cutting the seatpost. This was for the front derailleur.We posted at the same time.

The problem with cutting the frame and adding a new slot, is that you'll be cutting into the welds for the seatstays (the two tubes leading from the seat to the rear wheel), and thats a high stress area. I don't know what the outcome would be, but I wouldn't want to be riding the bike when I found out. I would do like I originally suggested and strip the parts for spares, and ditch the frame. You can always a find another cheap frame and throw the parts on if they're compatible.

This frame is dirt cheap and well regarded here.
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/19.../detail/19505-175_SETRK9-3-Parts-60-Frames/Sette-Reken-Hardtail-Alloy-Frame.htm
Click to expand...
You have been most helpful. I think I am going to do what you have suggested. The Crack is too far down on the seat stay and if I were to cut it, the cut would be right along the weld. As it stands now, no one will be riding it.

Since you have provided me with an awesome link, would you be so kind to tell me what "SPECIAL" tools I might need to take the crank off or even other parts?
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!:thumbsup:
Jim
 
#16 ·
To take most cranks off all you need is hex wrench ( 8 or 10mm), but you it depends on what type of crank you have. If you post what brand and model it would be easier to tell you exactly what you need.

If you plan on pulling the bottom bracket, you definitely need to post the type of crank. Internal bearings require a spanner and a special socket. External bearings you just need a special wrench.

Most components will come off with a set of hex wrenches. During tear down, Headset cups, cassettes, and bottom brackets are typically all you need special tools. Parktool.com lists all the special tools you would need for a bike, and has videos and instructions. Park tool offers tool kits that include most the special parts you need to build and tear down bikes. I picked up a kit off ebay for a good price.
 
#17 ·
The special tools you will need are a crank puller or a hex wrench appropriate to your cranks. Something like this http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1030376_-1_50000_20000_50004

You will also need a bottom bracket tool. You can take it to the local bike shop and have them identify it for you, or post what brand/model of crank it is here, and someone will be able to identify the type of bottom bracket and you can buy the appropriate tool.

The last last tool you will need is a headset remover http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_125085_-1_201492_10000_201508

Thats all the "Special" tools you would need to STRIP the bike. Putting it back together is another story. But worry about that when you get there.

Good luck.

.edit. Sorry I didn't read the last post. I'm just echoing musg8411.
 
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