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Guilty as charged, I'm a geek. :)

kapusta, why yes, I was doing just that: guessing. That's what heuristics is about. Finding the least wild guess of all conceivable wild guesses. )

But take a look at what TNC just said. Namely, that there are sooo damn many things to consider (and what's worse - their effects differ in every case). I think that it just isn't worth doing that in a methodical way unless you're looking at some unusual crank lengths and unusual sized guy.

Also notice how I didn't outright suggest the 175 mm length but first proceeded to give an example of how such a difference works, as perceived by an average built person.

The question remains, however, just how did the 175 mm became so much of a standard? Even if it is formulated in terms of us being programmed by the industry into the use of 175 mm cranks, it's still a question worth asking.

I think that the answer to this is very much like the answer to many other bike design questions (like, why the spoked wheel, why the chain and cog transmission, why this wheel size for doing that, etc). Enter emergent algorithms... The bicycle as we know it is not a result of planned development. It is an ensemble of parts and practices that just... turn out... to play well together. No discernible authority is there to decide how an entire bike should look and work (even if some modern marketing strategies are trying to pull this off on us :) ). It's the generations of bikes that just keep proving themselves and selling themselves...
 
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Have a read of this... http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cranks.html

And for those too lazy to read it all... best quote "I think people really obsess too much about crank length. After all, we all use the same staircases, whether we have long or short legs. Short legged people acclimate their knees to a greater angle of flex to climb stairways, and can also handle proportionally longer cranks than taller people normally use."
 
markw1970,
yes, I have read that some years ago.

But crank length is way more easier to tweak than staircases. ) Besides, whereas long legged people can just step over several small stairs at once, the short legged people are having hard time with tall stairs. That's why stair dimension standards have been emerging in building design throughout 20th century. Older buildings have much weirder and disparate stair sizes. Even older buildings have different height stairs within staircases...

More users, more use cases, more feedback, and voila! Before long the host of opportunities (most of them meaningless) converges into a few viable options (most of them meaningful). Evolutionary development in action...
 
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I do notice the difference... with the 170 mm, the gears seem a little off (from being used to 175). But that's not anything to worry about. However I think that with say 165 mm it would have been harder to adapt to.
 
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kapusta said:
Thank you! I can't believe there were 10 posts of nonsense before someone bothered to ask this question. It's like giving advice on pant size without asking how big someone's waist is. Yes, crank length is personal preference, but your leg size plays a big part in this.

OP: with a 30" inseam you could probably go either way. At 32" I'd say you want 175's. I'd try them and see what you think.

It's not just about the torque, it's about the position it puts your legs and knees in.
Exactly!
The size of the bike does matter, but if you over 6 ft, 175's are probably the best bet.
 
Aust95 said:
Torque=radius x force. 5mm increase from 170 to 175mm is equal to a 3% increase in torque by choosing the longer crankarm (considering force is constant). It's likely not a significant gain to sacrifice better ground and rock clearance. I'd go with the 170mm for AM riding.
so a 3% decrease in torque is insignificant but a 3% decrease in ground clearance is?
 
I used to have really old Deore 170s, then switched to new-ish STX-RCs at 175 and mistook the extra stiffness for better leverage until I recently bought Race Face Turbine LPs at 170 (and we know those stinkers are stiFF) and to be honest the difference in torque really is ~3% ...ie nothing, and the pedal clearance is a welcome + I can spin slightly faster cadences than before.
 
heavyg said:
I feel a pretty big difference switching between the two lengths. I generally like the 170s better all around, but there is no doubt that I don't have quite the same level of torque/power at the upper limit. The upside is that my knees are happier; I shift a little more rather than try to grunt/mash my way through stuff. I think I "spin" a little more smoothly at "normal" RPMs too.

Bear in mind that I am relatively short-legged (30" pant inseam on 6'1") so long leggers might not feel the same way.

The good side of the 170s I hadn't thought of before trying it is that it is easier shifting weight from one outside pedal to the other when carving turns, and even cooler, when pedals are level, my feet are a little closer together, allowing me to bend my knees a little better and/or keep my body/shoulders more square to the bike. All in all, it was sorta similar to the effect when I relented and dropped my seat an inch or so down from "optimal" cross country height. Better handling all around at the expense of a little bit of ultimate performance.
I feel the same way about 170's. I spin better, my knees are happier, and it's easier shifting weight from one side to the other. I've got 170's on my 2 26" full susser's and 175's on my SS 29er and SS 26er. The 175's are easier to mash up hills.
 
A 3% loss in torque can be immediately made up for choosing another gear. If you are mashing up a hill at a race you will use a gear to get you up the hill that gets you up the hill fast. A crank arm won't be the deciding factor. And yes, I just brought back to life this dead thread!
 
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