I currently own a 22.5 inch 820 about seven years old but in really good shape, I'm 6'8" and was considering getting a 24" 4500 as I find the 22.5 inch just a bit on the small side for road riding. I do a good bit of road riding and some mild to medium trails. Is the 4500 big improvement over the 820, or should I just keep what I got?
Trek 4500?
BigA0168
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I currently own a 22.5 inch 820 about seven years old but in really good shape, I'm 6'8" and was considering getting a 24" 4500 as I find the 22.5 inch just a bit on the small side for road riding. I do a good bit of road riding and some mild to medium trails. Is the 4500 big improvement over the 820, or should I just keep what I got?
Excellent entry level machine , very upgradable . I belived the wheels has a disc hubs and could be easily upgraded to mechanical disc brake if you wish . Avid BB 5 or 7 will run you under $150 , available at many bike part stores on the net . This brakes upgrade will greatly increase your confidence when things turn rough on the trail . The front shock ( Dart 2 ) might have a light spring ( good for lighter rider ) check with the shop personal . I think the 4500 will be a big improvement over the 820 . Keep your 820 for road riding and the 4500 for the trail , enjoy .
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The 4500 is a good starter bike.It does not have disk hubs however.But the SD 3 brakes it comes with work very well.It has a dart three shock which does have rebound and lockout.If you are a bigger rider you probly would do good to replace the spring.I have found mine to be very reliable and take a beating.I have already moved onto another bike but will keep my 4500 as a spare.
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I would upgrade
The 820 had a steel frame vs. the 4500's aluminum.
The 820 has a 63mm travil fork (if you 820 is old enough it doesnt have a front shock at all) vs the 4500's 100mm travil RockShox Dart 3 with lockout (a very nick for for the price i may add)
Also, you go from a 21 to 24 speed with nicer shifters.
O and much nicer tires and wheeles also
not to mension a couple pounds difference
The 4500 does not come with disk wheeles, however the frame has disc mounts.
Bottem line, the 820 is good for playing arround on, the 4500 is a bike that is respectible even on a xc race course.
I work in a bike shop all day with these things so if you have any questions ask im shure ill know
The 820 had a steel frame vs. the 4500's aluminum.
The 820 has a 63mm travil fork (if you 820 is old enough it doesnt have a front shock at all) vs the 4500's 100mm travil RockShox Dart 3 with lockout (a very nick for for the price i may add)
Also, you go from a 21 to 24 speed with nicer shifters.
O and much nicer tires and wheeles also
not to mension a couple pounds difference
The 4500 does not come with disk wheeles, however the frame has disc mounts.
Bottem line, the 820 is good for playing arround on, the 4500 is a bike that is respectible even on a xc race course.
I work in a bike shop all day with these things so if you have any questions ask im shure ill know
I went ahead and ordered one, should be here in a week. I have listed the 820 for sale in the classifieds, just don't have room to keep two bikes. I think a 24" frame will be a lot easier to ride for my 6'8" size then the 22.5" of my 820.
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The full bike is about 27lbs in a 16" frame
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funny, my LBS has stock 6000s at 30.8 lbs. I don't think a 4500 would weigh the same as a 6700.YoungGun91 said:
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Well,Thirdrawn said:
My 2008 17.5 inch 6000 weighed in at 30.8 lbs, and is now at 26.8 with Easton XC-1s, SRAM 990 cassette, Crank Bros Eggbeaters, Easton EC-90 seatpost, Fox F100x forks, and Michelin XC Dry tires. I don't think my LBS has a bad scale...... So I've a hard time believing a 4500 weighs in at less box stock.
Well,sportster44 said:
I'm really super-psyched that you were able to get your bike down to 26.8lbs. That's quite an accomplishment.
I've gotta believe that your LBS used an accurate scale. I have no reason to believe that they or you are lying. I have no interest in this. Personally, this isn't going to affect me at all beyond having to respond to people who seem to not believe me. So I really don't have a reason to mislead you or anyone else. I don't even have a 4500 or a 6000 so there isn't any pride going on here. All I can tell you is that I weighed a stock 2009 4500 on a digital scale and it came back weighing around 27lbs. Probably closer to 27.5lbs. I'll try to be more accurate in my future 5sec responses on this website.
I'm sure there are plenty of ways that you could have the superior bike (I believe this is the crux of your apparent disbelief) and yet have the heavier bike. Your bike comes with disc brakes. I don't like entry-level disc brake setups because I believe they add more weight than performance. The 4500 is only dealing with 8 gears rather than 9. There may have been other component choices that were made because the expected increase in performance justified the increase in weight. I simply don't know.
I'm not sure what you're getting at. You seem to think that I misread a scale or that I'm lying or otherwise mistaken. This is simply not the case. I recall bringing the weight to the attention of the manager because I was impressed with it (you are also impressed, apparently). I suggest that you put your mind at ease by going to your LBS and weighing a stock 4500. You appear to believe in the accuracy of the equipment and the scale-reading ability of the staff - I envy them to have such a customer who demands quality.
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Please don't get me wrong. I'm not saying anything other than a 4500 at 27 lbs sounds a bit hard to believe. I'm not doubting your abilites to read a scale OR weigh a bike. I'm thinking out loud that if you're scale is accurate then I just wasted a pile of money getting my bike down to a 4500 weight. Either that Or I need to have my LBS invest in a new scale.Thirdrawn said:
I'd like to draw your attention to the second-to-last paragraph of my previous post. I one beginning with "I'm sure there are plenty of ways that you could have the superior bike...." Personally, I would have chosen to make some other upgrades rather than the ones you listed (upgrading to a new wheelset, primarily), but I don't think you've "wasted a pile of money." Those parts are probably better than what you'll get on your next bike and it can inherit the better parts. Think of it as a hand-me-up. Yes, I recall that you intend to stick with your current bike for a while. That doesn't make my point any less valid.sportster44 said:
There's no doubt in my mind that the 6000 is the more competitive bike. Scales be damned.
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Anyone know how/where to get the seat post diameter on this bike? I've looked all over online and through Trek's "Bike Archives" feature on their website and can't find it. Can only find this bike's geometry. I need to replace the front derailleur and want to use one that clamps to the seat tube instead of the super-shitty design of the one that mounts into the bottom bracket. Please let me know. Thanks! Rick
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