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KC_Rockhopper_29er

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I got a 2008 Rockhopper Comp 29er with this RockShox Tora 318 SL fork. First shock I have owned and was wondering if there is a way to stiffen it up for when going cross country. I read that it has a 80mm travel but I don't really know what that means. I put 95 PSI of air in it which I believe helped. I weigh 250 lbs so it takes a little punsihment.

The lockout is pretty good for the price. Any feedback appreciated!

KC Rockhopper 29er
 
KC_Rockhopper_29er said:
I got a 2008 Rockhopper Comp 29er with this RockShox Tora 318 SL fork. First shock I have owned and was wondering if there is a way to stiffen it up for when going cross country. I read that it has a 80mm travel but I don't really know what that means. I put 95 PSI of air in it which I believe helped. I weigh 250 lbs so it takes a little punsihment.

The lockout is pretty good for the price. Any feedback appreciated!

KC Rockhopper 29er
That is a really good fork, pretty darn stiff for a q/r fork. I had two before I went to the 20mm t/a setup. Does your hub have a 9mm skewer/ axle like many Spec. bikes do? If not what hub do you have? Please be as specific as possible. By going to a front wheel retention system with higher clamping force you may be able to stiffen it up a bit more.

Chances are your wheels are not fully up to tension & stress relieved. Having a good wheel builder get them up to snuff would help with your flex issues and make the wheels last longer as well.
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
This is the exact configuration I have below. I just got it this week and will be taking it back to the dealer for a one month tune up in May and Iit feels when the shock isn't locked out, it comes close to bottoming out going downhill off road and wanted to make sure I told them the right stuff to do.

http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=34096
 
Ok, went and looked at that. My guess, from the description on the website, is that you have a cup and cone bearing system on that hub. What diameter is the skewer shaft? The axle is threaded where it engages the dropouts, right?
 
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It sounds like you're just getting started into the world of shocks, so it might be worth taking this back to the shop where you bought it and asking them to help you set it up. This kind of thing is a lot easier in show-n-tell mode than reading over the interwebs. However, I'll give it a shot.

It sounds like you need to increase the amount of air that you have in the chamber. The easiest way to set this is to set the "sag": the amount that the fork compresses when you're just sitting on it. Unfortunately, this is hard to do yourself. However, if you can get someone to help you, have them measure the amount of stanchion tube (the shiny uppers on the fork) showing when you are just sitting comfortably on the bike (both feet on, and leaning against a wall just enough to keep your balance). You want your sag to be about 15%, but for starters here you can aim for 10-15mm of sag, or 65-70mm showing when you're on the bike.

After you've done this put a zip tie around one stanchion. This will allow you to keep track of the amount of travel that you're using on the trail. As a general rule, you want to occasionally use all of the travel, but not on every hit: I usually like to see that I get all the travel once a ride, assuming it's of decent length and on relatively rough trails. You can play with this later, too, adjusting how stiff you want the fork to be: I change things based on the trail, how much gear I'm carrying, and how fat I am.

You also have a rebound adjustment on this bike: this know on the bottom of one of the leg with a turtle and a hare on it (I believe, graphics can change) adjusts how fast the fork returns to its original position after its been compressed. This is a great feature that will really help you tune your fork, but for now you can just set it at about "medium" to a little "fast" (count the clicks between the two positions). Don't worry about this too much until you're a little more comfortable on the bike, but trust me that it can come in handy.

Finally, when you lock the fork out (the knob on top of the right leg), you should still get a little bit of play in it. This isn't a bad thing -- few forks now have a "static" lock out -- and shouldn't bother you unless you do lots of road riding. If so I think it's internally adjustable on this fork, though you'll need to ask your mechanic about that.

First things first, though: get a good shock pump, a friend with an eye for measurement, and set the sag. I think that will stiffen things up quite a bit.

Good luck!
 
Thinking about a 250# rider on a 28h front wheel makes me uneasy. Possibly you should consider a new wheel with 32 or 36 spokes and a hub with a solid axle & track nuts. Surly makes some nice hubs like that for fairly reasonable prices. That or a high end DT hub using their 9mm RWS skewer/axle if you must have tool less wheel removal.

Since there is probably a t/a front end in your future, because of your size, getting a DT hub now that will do the 9mm RWS skewer/axle and be convertable to 20mm t/a later is a good idea.
 
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I ran about 130 psi in my Tora 318 (2006 model on my 5" travel 26" bike). I weigh 210 so I think your PSI is low as mentioned above.
 
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I have been riding a Tora for the last 15 months and it is a great fork.
Your air pressure is way too low.
I weigh 200 and run 150-170 lbs.
I am running it at 100mm of travel.
The air pressure charts on the fork leg are different for the 80mm and 100mm travel settings.
 
I have the same bike, if you look on your fork there is a sticker with PSI recommendation for rider weight. For a 220lb rider it sais put 210+ PSI in the fork. I weigh 220 and right now I am running 210 PSI, I may need more or less, riding time will tell I guess, Im a newbie at this mountain bike stuff. By the way the PSI is differant for the 80MM fork and the 100 MM fork, make sure you look at the right one. The first time I looked at the wrong one. Your bike has the 80MM fork.
 
29erchico said:
Thinking about a 250# rider on a 28h front wheel makes me uneasy. Possibly you should consider a new wheel with 32 or 36 spokes and a hub with a solid axle & track nuts. Surly makes some nice hubs like that for fairly reasonable prices. That or a high end DT hub using their 9mm RWS skewer/axle if you must have tool less wheel removal.

Since there is probably a t/a front end in your future, because of your size, getting a DT hub now that will do the 9mm RWS skewer/axle and be convertable to 20mm t/a later is a good idea.
Absolutely no need to change the hub or rim out until you destroy it. I've been riding around on my stock Alex front rim and Shimano hub for over a year and just had the front trued for the first time last week. I've weighed as much as 255 and currently waver around 230 and beat the snot out of my Rockhopper, regularly bombing through rough rock gardens and 3 foot drops.

To the OP: You're running waaaay too low air pressure. I run mine around 230psi for stiff XC type riding and soften it up 15-20psi if I know its going to be especially rough to take the edge off.
 
Bradyab said:
So how do you change the fork from 80mm to 100mm? Or is this even possible. I have heard talks of converting it from one to the other.
You simply remove a spacer and viola, 100mm.
It requires partial fork disassembly.
There have been threads on this forum outlining the least labor intensive way to do it.
I have done it, it works like a charm.
 
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