Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
EIBfan said:
I've had good success with a 50-50 blend of 30 weight motor oil and 90 weight gear oil. With wax lubes I had to lube the chain after every ride to keep it quiet and rarely got more than 1200 miles before they were shot. With wax, they were also very difficult to clean. The wax "goo" just doesn't want to come off.

With oil, I just replaced a chain (PC59) at 3,000 miles that saw 95% middle and big ring use and it still only had 0.5% stretch. On my F/S bike that sees mostly steep granny climbs, coasting descents or big ring work on the way to the trail, I get about 1200 miles on a chain (PC58). I just replaced it with a PC80R to see if a more high end chain might last a little longer. The other bike got another PC59. I weight about 210.

As for dirt build up and cleaning, dirt build up is more but minimized if the chain is lubricated sparingly and wiped off afterward. Cleaning an oiled chain is easy with water and simple green and a brush.

As for frequency of lubing the chain with oil, I generally lube the chain when it get noisy which is about every 100 to 150 miles which is much less than after every ride which is what I did with wax.

As for cost, a 10 year supply of my lube costs about $5.00.
I've got a DIY forula that works quite well for me. I use a mix of about 80% parrafin wax and 20% mobil 1 motor oil. I keep this concoction in and old electric frying pan. After cleaning my chain thoroughly, I place it in the pan of melted wax/oil. After it sits a few minutes to heat the chain to the same temp as the wx, I just stir ir around to assure the stuff works into every nook and cranny, then take it out with the help of some pliers or something. [it's to hot to handle] set it on some newspaper to soak up the extra wax till it cools. Mixing the oil with the wax makes it a lot more slipery than wax only lubes. Although it's a lot more labor intensive than just squirting some oil on the chain, this lasts for much longer and doesn't get near as dirty. As a plus, once the stuff hardens back in the pan, carve a chunk out to use for lots of other uses- run your cables on a peice before installing them in cable housing. run it across drawer slides for silky smooth operation. Anything that requires a clean lube, this stuff is great. And oh- after cleaning your pedals, toss them in after your chain. Not only do the pedals get the lube job, but the wax fills in all the places where dirt normally takes up residence, forming sort of a "dirt gasket" aroung everthing.Door hinges- just run the hinge pin across the chunk a time or two. No more oil running down the door. And for wood workers- before screwwing into wood, stick the tip of the screw into the chunk of wax. The screw will go in with half the effort. I could go on and on. If I was more motivated, I'd pattent the stuff. Gotta go... RIDE.
 
For the dry and dusty conditions that you ride in, forget about all the home-made and auto parts stuff. I recommend something made for dry conditions, and bikes for that matter. I've had nothing but good luck with Finish Line Teflon-Plus Dry, it attracts little to no dirt or dust and can even handle a little bit of water now and then. I defenitely would NOT recommend any wax-based lubes like the Kytech, not only do they hardly last a ride, they collect dirt like a kid collects germs.
 
Of Tri-Flow, Motorex, White Lightening, Weld-Tite TF2, Finish Line Dry Tech . . .

For riding and racing in SoCal, the best I've used is Tri-Flow, but there is certainly room for improvement. How lube is applied is as important as what lube. Wiping excess with a rag after application works great at minimizing gunk accumulation

Tri-Flow: the best at lubricating - very smooth. Does build up a bit, but the least of these. Can handle a bit of stream crossing. For me lasts good for a 3 hour race. Chain can be cleaned well with a rag.

Motorex Dry Lube: Somewhat thin, lubes well, but forms thin uniform gunk layer which requires chain removal to get clean. I will use the bottle I have happily, but will be going back to tri-flow (or

White Lightening: crap; gimmick.

Weld-Tite TF2: I got a large spray can of this at a race and really like it as a first lube on a clean chain before installation on the bike. It penetrates - bringing out deep grime that only mineral spirits could get - and protects and seems to pull tr-flow in deeper than it would normally go. My bottle is empty and I don't know where to get more. This is not really a chain lube as it would dry very quickly and attracts dust.

FinishLine DryTech: Used one bottle and switched back to Tri-Flow. Did not lube well and I experienced build up.
 
BigHit-Maniac said:
I like the sound of this Purple Stuff.

Might it be at the auto parts store?

I hate white lightning... it gunks everything up.... :( ... so funk dat.

Thanks for the info.

-Matt
If you would've gone to the Eureka Springs DH race you would've gotten some. I have it on my Bighit and its awesome.

-TS
 
Discovered a sample

Funny, I just realized that one of the vendors handing out samples at Sea Otter was the makers of Purple extreme- it turns out I have two small bottles. I guess I'll try it after my next chain cleaning.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Thanks for all the replys.. I think I'm going to either get the rock n roll or the progold prolink stuff.. I've yet to ride a water crossing so I think I'll be ok. I didn't even think to check if there were reviews on lubes untill it was mentioned in this thread, and both the rock n roll and prolink looked great.

Thanks
 
My all-time fav. - Rock n' Roll in the Red Bottle - Super quiet, though does need to be applied every ride.

Second best I'd say is Finish Line Dry - Again, have to apply every ride.

That Purple Extreme IMO is NOT worth the hassle & only lasted 2 rides in my dry, dusty conditions, FWIW - Sea Otter course is in my backyard though I mostly ride everywhere else but there.
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts