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lil hillbilly

· Ozark Native
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Profile Racing 6 speed disc hub on 36 hole Delgato Disc, 4 cross, w/ 14g DT Swiss spokes, The build went great. Came to tension and trued up nice.:)
Runnin 12,18,24,32 and an LX short cage der.
Shifftin done by Ultegra bar end shifter on Paul thumby mount..

nothing really extraordanary about this set up and I kinda like it that way. Shiffting is just as good as when it was 1x9 and the gear jumps are not noticable. Waiting on 08 32hole DD to come around so I can have the wheel set but the difference between the old 24mm Delgato and new 29mm hoop is night and day. It makes those Exiwolfs worth keepin around .
 

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#2 ·
So, you have
- fast gear
- flat gear
- technical climbing gear
- huffing and puffing up the hill gear
:)

Is that shifter indexed or friction?
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
perttime said:
So, you have
- fast gear
- flat gear
- technical climbing gear
- huffing and puffing up the hill gear
:)

Is that shifter indexed or friction?
Click to expand...
I still ride her like a single speed, but!!:D
ya its nice to have the big gears for some of the longer technical climbs we got around these parts.

the shifter is indexed
 
#4 ·
I'd love to see how you got it set up. I'm struggling to get a SS gear combo on an Astrix Rook frame (made to be geary) so I'm willing to go with a short cage derailleur and add a couple of gears to my ride to solve a chain tension issue.
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
GreenLightGo said:
I'd love to see how you got it set up. I'm struggling to get a SS gear combo on an Astrix Rook frame (made to be geary) so I'm willing to go with a short cage derailleur and add a couple of gears to my ride to solve a chain tension issue.
Click to expand...
my camera just sucks for close-ups but this is a pic of the bizniss

as far as your Rook is concerned why not a melvin (paul chain tensioner):thumbsup:
 

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#6 ·
12-18, isn't that a sucky shift? And +50%, quite a cadence difference?

I would humbly suggest something like
12-16-20-25-32
for
+33-25-25-28% gaps
At least a 13 or 14 for that 12t :)

BTW, cool bike!

in stead of your +50-33-33%
 
#7 ·
GreenLightGo said:
I'd love to see how you got it set up. I'm struggling to get a SS gear combo on an Astrix Rook frame (made to be geary) so I'm willing to go with a short cage derailleur and add a couple of gears to my ride to solve a chain tension issue.
Click to expand...
I was able to fit 3 cogs with spacers on the "SS" hub on my Raleigh - Fit well with 9-speed spacers, but I didn't have the shift lever yet, so used 8-spd spacers since I had one of those shifters kicking around. Barely fit, but did. I went 17 - 20 - 24 just to get a few rides in with the packs on the bike. This set-up with a short cage RD would let you experiment to "pick the gear" you want. Old Shimano cogsets that disassemble are the ticket. Ya might need two or three of them to get the cogs you want tho... I'd take a pick except I just finished converting to 2x9 for a trip.
 
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#8 ·
lil hillbilly said:
my camera just sucks for close-ups but this is a pic of the bizniss

as far as your Rook is concerned why not a melvin (paul chain tensioner):thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Cool - thanks. Is that an old 8 spd cassette? I've got four SS cogs already, got a 20T, 19T, 18T and 16T, all are Chris King except the 18T (Niner). Running a Hope Pro II SS rear hub as well with a SRAM PC-68 chain so an 8 speed cassette is needed to accomodate the chain unless I space out my SS cogs.

BTW - I've got a Rennen Rollenlager, BUT, the rennen does not fit the der. hanger and allow the wheel to fully seat in the dropout, I've got to leave about a 1-2mm gap. Wasn't comfortable with that.

I've squeezed on a 33-19T combo (1mm short of magic gear) so I'm going to scrape off the paint in the dropouts to relieve a tad bit of tension. I'm thinking my rear tire is a bit crooked. 32-20T would be a hair longer and probably be ideal magic gear stuff but the flexibility to go 20T to 16T would be great for road work.

Thanks.
 
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#9 ·
I ran 1x4 a while back pretty successfully. To keep the chain even shorter, I chose to use an Ultegra rear mech. Never had an issue w/it, so I kept it to run 1x8 with. Chain slap is kept to a minimum.
 

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#10 ·
~martini~ said:
I ran 1x4 a while back pretty successfully. To keep the chain even shorter, I chose to use an Ultegra rear mech. Never had an issue w/it, so I kept it to run 1x8 with. Chain slap is kept to a minimum.
Click to expand...
Where you also running the Paul thumbie shifter setup?
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Cloxxki said:
12-18, isn't that a sucky shift? And +50%, quite a cadence difference?

I would humbly suggest something like
12-16-20-25-32
for
+33-25-25-28% gaps
At least a 13 or 14 for that 12t :)

BTW, cool bike!

in stead of your +50-33-33%
Click to expand...
totally expected a sucky shift myself, but its just not the case. The cadence jump is a bunch, but for the trails I ride its just the ticket.
The cog that will probley change is the 24 to a 22.

Thanks for the sugestions and nice comments:D
 
#13 ·
GreenLightGo said:
Cool - thanks. Is that an old 8 spd cassette? I've got four SS cogs already, got a 20T, 19T, 18T and 16T, all are Chris King except the 18T (Niner). Running a Hope Pro II SS rear hub as well with a SRAM PC-68 chain so an 8 speed cassette is needed to accomodate the chain unless I space out my SS cogs.

BTW - I've got a Rennen Rollenlager, BUT, the rennen does not fit the der. hanger and allow the wheel to fully seat in the dropout, I've got to leave about a 1-2mm gap. Wasn't comfortable with that.

I've squeezed on a 33-19T combo (1mm short of magic gear) so I'm going to scrape off the paint in the dropouts to relieve a tad bit of tension. I'm thinking my rear tire is a bit crooked. 32-20T would be a hair longer and probably be ideal magic gear stuff but the flexibility to go 20T to 16T would be great for road work.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
On my Rook - I only got the 34x18 to work magically - can't recall though if it had the half-link or not. Have you tried half-links? The Rollenlager is a tough fit in the push-up position, but with a half link you might be able to lessen the chain length and still tighten up with the Rennen with your gear combos.

But really, for all other gear combos I'd suggest the ENO hub. I just got sick of all the extra work to make SS work on the Rook, I gave up and ordered the Moots with the sliders and only after that did I decide to order the ENO, which is working quite fine on my Wily. In my opinion, the Rook was meant to be a SS racing frame, but unfortunately it was created as geared. I did nothing but haul a$$ on the Rook once it became free of the extra gears and would gladly purchase a SS version of it - with the sliders of course. The ENO will at least let you dial it in much easier and move on in life...
 
#14 ·
Timo said:
On my Rook - I only got the 34x18 to work magically - can't recall though if it had the half-link or not. Have you tried half-links? The Rollenlager is a tough fit in the push-up position, but with a half link you might be able to lessen the chain length and still tighten up with the Rennen with your gear combos.

But really, for all other gear combos I'd suggest the ENO hub. I just got sick of all the extra work to make SS work on the Rook, I gave up and ordered the Moots with the sliders and only after that did I decide to order the ENO, which is working quite fine on my Wily. In my opinion, the Rook was meant to be a SS racing frame, but unfortunately it was created as geared. I did nothing but haul a$$ on the Rook once it became free of the extra gears and would gladly purchase a SS version of it - with the sliders of course. The ENO will at least let you dial it in much easier and move on in life...
Click to expand...
Timo - thanks. I did a LOT of searching on here before buying the Rook, looked at all of your posts on the Rook too. I have not tried a half-link yet. I got the 33-19 on but it was just a hair too tight for my liking, the threads on the 10mm bolts left some grooves in the drive side dropout. I removed the 33-19 combo, filed/sanded off all the paint in the dropout and should have my 32T Blackspire chainring in today for installation. I'm surprised you got the 34-18 to work, it looks a tad shorter than the 33-19 I tried. Hopefully - I'll be a happy camper tonight. I have had this frame for two weeks and haven't ridden it yet.
 
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#16 ·
lil hillbilly said:
totally expected a sucky shift myself, but its just not the case. The cadence jump is a bunch, but for the trails I ride its just the ticket.
The cog that will probley change is the 24 to a 22.

Thanks for the sugestions and nice comments:D
Click to expand...
Nice. What sort of cassette did you get the 32T cog from? All the old ones I have are on a carrier with 3 or 4 other cogs.
 
#18 ·
Timo - 32-20 fit like a glove. So we quit hijcaking this one, I'll post pics later on tonight. Must go make my maiden voyage on the Rook.
 
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