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nemark2500

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I have been on the lookout for a used (or maybe new?) hardtail 29er to use on smoother trails (also have a FS) and possibly for commuting given that I'm fortunate enough to be able to take a trail for part of my commute. My first inclination is to go steel both for the ride quality of which so many speak and for durability.

However, I am concerned about the possibility of rust, especially since it seems to rain here quite frequently for 8 months out of the year. My only long-term experience with any type of a steel frame (if you call it that) is the circa-1994 cromoly Trek 820 I commute on. In general, I'm pretty impressed with the corrosion resistance. Spots where the paint chipped off has turned brown with rust, but it hasn't spread (unlike numerous spots on my former car). It's been ridden in the rain plenty and has sat outside semi-covered for more time than I'd like to admit. It has seen a little snow and road salt too.

That said, maybe the frame will crack in half tomorrow due to rust :confused:

Anyway, my questions are the following:

1. How does the rust resistance of Reynolds 853, True Temper OX Platinum, and whatever other high-quality steels there are compare to each other and to that of the cromoly on the old beater? Have others had similar luck as me with cromoly frames? My feeling is that there is enough maintenance on a bike without worrying about treating or constantly drying the frame to keep it from rusting away (or just looking bad), so if it's likely to be an issue I think I'd rather just go with aluminum or something. I'm a bit worried about it because I recently saw a custom steel frame on ebay with some pretty noticeable rust issues that looks much worse than my old beater frame.

2. What have been your experiences with rust/corrosion on steel or cro-mo frames after frequently riding through a) the rain, and/or b) the salt/snow? My guess is that the latter can about cause anything to rust, though I'd still be curious to hear the differences between these materials, if any.

3. What are the advantages of materials like Reynolds 853 over old-school cro-mo?

I wanted to ask the questions here because a) the 29er crowd seems to be the steel-loving crowd and likely has experience with this issue, and, b) the bike will ultimately be a 29er, after all.

If it matters, I'm 6'5" and 200 lbs.

By the way, I do not want to turn this into a thread about the differences in ride quality between steel and aluminum--there are other threads for that. I just want to know about the rust you all have or have not experienced on different types of steel tubing.

Thanks!
 
Reynolds 853 IS a chromoly steel... its just a different specific alloy than 4130. True Temper OX Gold and Platinum is the same alloy. So is Reynolds 631. They're just labeled and marketed by different bicycle tubing supplies, and drawn to different butt profiles, and offered in different heat treatments. Corrosion wise its really no practical difference than to what your trek is made from. Just thinner tubing has less material to rust thru.
 
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Unless you live close to the ocean, I would not worry at all about rusting through. I had cheap chromo roadframes sit outside in the rain for years (commuters) without problems.
 
nemark2500 said:
1. How does the rust resistance of Reynolds 853, True Temper OX Platinum, and whatever other high-quality steels there are compare to each other and to that of the cromoly on the old beater? Have others had similar luck as me with cromoly frames?
Like D8 said, most high quality steels are different versions of 4130 steel, and will have similar rusting properties.

nemark2500 said:
2. What have been your experiences with rust/corrosion on steel or cro-mo frames after frequently riding through a) the rain, and/or b) the salt/snow? My guess is that the latter can about cause anything to rust, though I'd still be curious to hear the differences between these materials, if any.
I've ridden steel frames for years without any significant rust issues. I don't know where you live, but in general rust is not a major issue in most places. If you're looking for a commuter to commute on salted winter roads 6 months out of hte year, I might steer you away from steel, but generally it's not a problem.

The majority of rust issues are caused by water getting inside the frame and pooling in the bottom bracket area, and the frame then rusting from the inside out. You can often (depending on the frame design) cut an old innertube from a road bike into a 2-3 inch sleeve, and slide it over the top of the seat tube to help prevent water from getting inside the frame.

I commute on a 27-year old steel road bike, that I do little maintanance on, and rust is not an issue with it. I see many people in my town commuting on old Schwinnn cruisers that are much older than my bike, and they're far from the end of their life.

nemark2500 said:
3. What are the advantages of materials like Reynolds 853 over old-school cro-mo?
The main advantage that you'll notice is weight. Older frames and forks are heavier than modern steel frames (modern meaning 1990s and 2000s). Otherwise, you'll likely not notice any ride quality difference bewteen a slightly older high-end steel frame, and a newer one.
 
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Just spray some frame-saver into the steel frame and it will last for years..no problems. Drilling a small hole in the bottom of the EBB helps to drain the water out too...


R.
 
I also live where it rains 6-8 months out of there year, and no one here (with any experience) worries about rust. Your Trek 820 is typical. CrMo steel is just that: Chrome-Moly steel, not pig iron. It will rust, but not that readily. Any CrMo steel will hold up fine, though Frame Saver treated frames will last longer, as will lower end (i.e., thicker gauge) steels.
 
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