Since both will fit std rear dropout, is it worth going with 10mm thru bolt-on axle over 9mm QR? Do you really notice the stiffness in rear-end on the same bike?
Rear 10mm thru axle vs. 9mm QR. Which?
SingleTrackHound
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Since both will fit std rear dropout, is it worth going with 10mm thru bolt-on axle over 9mm QR? Do you really notice the stiffness in rear-end on the same bike?
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Wans't kidding. I know the diff between 20mm thru and 9mm QR feel on the stiffness feel on the front-end. But I am intested in knowing 1mm diff in diameter on the rear-end axle (although comparing thru axle vs. QR) without having to buy one. Is it as pronounced as front 20mm thru axle to 9mm QR?
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couple things to think about here. yes the 10mm is 1mm bigger in diameter but the 9mm/QR is a tube and a tube will be stronger than a solid. i think that its more of a "which way do you want to hold the rear in". a bolt in will be more secure than a QR
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Lets try this again
Here's an example from DT Swiss 340 rear hub. One is 10mm bolt axle and the other is QR.
Here's an example from DT Swiss 340 rear hub. One is 10mm bolt axle and the other is QR.
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QR is 9mm
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If rear QR hub is already 10mm axle what is point of upgrading to 10mm thru axle. Hope sells 10mm conversion kit for their Pro II rear hub where you can convert QR to 10mm thru axle. I am trying to find out if there is a tangible difference in stiffness from QR to 10mm thru bolt rear hub.
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Some confusion here.
All current Shimano rear hubs use 10mm axles weather they are bolt on or quick release, except for the Saint 150, which uses a 12m through axle. All Shimano front hubs used a 9mm axle (again bolt on or QR) except for some XT's which used a larger axle diameter inside the hub with a 9mm portion for the dropout (ie: 755 and 756 front hubs use a 10mm threaded axle, and some earlier XT's used a 12mm aluminium axle).
This is because the standard front dropout for a bicycle is 9mm, while the standard rear dropout is 10mm. As a result, other manufacturers follow suite.
I have never seen a rear hub with a 9mm axle, QR or bolt on.
Bolt on solid axles are stronger.
All current Shimano rear hubs use 10mm axles weather they are bolt on or quick release, except for the Saint 150, which uses a 12m through axle. All Shimano front hubs used a 9mm axle (again bolt on or QR) except for some XT's which used a larger axle diameter inside the hub with a 9mm portion for the dropout (ie: 755 and 756 front hubs use a 10mm threaded axle, and some earlier XT's used a 12mm aluminium axle).
This is because the standard front dropout for a bicycle is 9mm, while the standard rear dropout is 10mm. As a result, other manufacturers follow suite.
I have never seen a rear hub with a 9mm axle, QR or bolt on.
Bolt on solid axles are stronger.
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I made an assumption that all qr hubs are 9mm...front or rear. My bad.:madman:
Back to my intended question: QR rear vs 10mm bolt-on rear. Bolt-on has superior stiffness advantage that can be felt?
Back to my intended question: QR rear vs 10mm bolt-on rear. Bolt-on has superior stiffness advantage that can be felt?
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The stiffness increase is primarily due to the frame/hub interface, not the necessarily the axle itself (but I'm sure it helps).SingleTrackHound said:
The TA rear bolts through the frame like a fork TA, and that type of interface is much more resistance to the input forces as the axle is fully supported on both sides.
The QR axle is "bolted" to sides of the frame and is not in as good a supported position to input forces.
To the next question, a bolt on rear axle should be stiffer than a QR, but not at stiff as a TA rear.
Can it be felt? Depends on how flexy your frame is. If your frame's rear is already stiff then probably not - to very little. If the rear is flexy you should feel some (probably minor) differences in feedback in the boneyards.
Mr. P
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I think I am starting to get it. I need some serious learning on rear hub qr, bolt-on, & thru axle differences.pvd said:
I have been thinking about upgrading my rear qr hub to 10mm thru axle type hub. I was curious if it's worth upgrading. Isn't TA also bolted on? I am not talking about "bolt-on". Damn, it's confusing.
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Nice write up!:thumbsup: I get it now. TA being also "bolted on" got me confused with real bolt on axle.Mr.P said:
Yes what I wanted to upgrade to is Thru axle bolt on rear from QR rear.
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typically when you say "bolt on", you mean that bolts are screwed into the hub axle to hold the hub to the frame, ala bullseye. crap.
just say "thru axle", then you mean an axle that goes through the entire hub and frame and is clamped or nutted at the ends. good.
![Image]()
https://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Hadley_Hubs
just say "thru axle", then you mean an axle that goes through the entire hub and frame and is clamped or nutted at the ends. good.
https://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Hadley_Hubs
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Er at risk of confusing things a little further
does anyone know about or have photo's of the Hope Pro II REAR QR to 10mm conversion?.
Can I simply replace the QR 10mm axle with a solid one (a la Hadley or even better DT RWS - when are they gonna get a move on btw ) or as I fear do I need some sort of adaptor to interface and support the bearings?
does anyone know about or have photo's of the Hope Pro II REAR QR to 10mm conversion?. Can I simply replace the QR 10mm axle with a solid one (a la Hadley or even better DT RWS - when are they gonna get a move on btw
) or as I fear do I need some sort of adaptor to interface and support the bearings?
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There is way too much confusion about the difference between a "bolt-on" axle and a true "through axle." There are some hub manufacturers that are using them almost interchangeably.SingleTrackHound said:
A "standard" QR axle is 9mm (front) and 10mmm (rear), hollow to allow the skewer to pass through it. The axle ends sit in the dropouts, slightly inside of the outer faces. The hub is secured in the frames by the clamping force of the skewer against the outer faces of the dropout and the locknuts of the hub against the inner faces.
A bolt-on axle is usually solid and the ends extend through the dropouts for nuts to thread onto the ends to clamp the hub in the bike as above. Some bolt-ons will have hollow axles and bolts on the ends rather than nuts.
Bolt-on pseudo through axles (DT Swiss calls it "through bolt") are an axle or skewer that replaces the axle of the hub but still fits in the "standard" dropout and secures the hub with side pressure as either of the above types. They can be slipped in and out of the hub easily unlike the above types.
A "true" through axle also easily slips in and out of the hub but it secures the hub by having the frame/fork clamping onto the axle (or the axle threads into the frame/fork as with the Maxel). There is no side clamping force holding the axle in the dropouts. You MUST remove the axle from the hub to remove the hub from the bike. The frame/fork must be designed to use the specific type of through axle. You cannot retro-fit a QR-type dropout to use a true through axle.
In short, a true through axle is secured by the frame/fork clamping (or threading) on it.
A QR/Bolt-on/bolt through axle is secured by the axle clamping the frame/fork.
STH, the DT Swiss hub you posted uses a 10mm "through bolt axle" (my pseudo through axle) for "standard" dropouts or 12mm through axle which requires the TA dropout.
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I was wondering about the same thing as I began to understand the qr, bolt-on, and TA diff. The DT Swiss hub description does it 12mm TA. But at the bottom of the pix, 10mm TA is available as does the 10mm QR release version. Is it possible that DT Swiss 340 rear hub offers both 10mm TA version that fits in std rear dropout and 12mm TA that does not?shiggy said:
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