MX Comp. ETA Oil Change

So here it is:

I have a 2005 MX Comp. w/ ETA. Last week, I took my bike to the LBS to fix another problem when I asked about my front suspension. The Mech. compressed it a few times and said the oil was foamed up. I took the bike home, removed the right stantion cap and sure enough the oil had foamed up. Now I need to replace the oil.

What I'm looking for are step by step instruction on how to change the oil on this particular shock, along with any tips you may have. I'm not afraid of a wrench and I'm pretty confident that I can get this done.

Thanks for your help,

gmelahn said:

So here it is:

I have a 2005 MX Comp. w/ ETA. Last week, I took my bike to the LBS to fix another problem when I asked about my front suspension. The Mech. compressed it a few times and said the oil was foamed up. I took the bike home, removed the right stantion cap and sure enough the oil had foamed up. Now I need to replace the oil.

What I'm looking for are step by step instruction on how to change the oil on this particular shock, along with any tips you may have. I'm not afraid of a wrench and I'm pretty confident that I can get this done.

Thanks for your help,

Click to expand...

The oil will always foam up in an open bath system. Using a very high quality oil lke Redline will reduce the foaming, but all oil foam up. It is no idication of it needing to be serviced. Oil gets dirty, that's when you change it. How old is your fork and when was the last oil change? Also, the MX is one of the easiest forks to change the oil on.

_MK

Thanks for the reply, The fork was bought around December and has been ridden since early January. I usually ride about once a week on Nor Cal Trails about 15-20 miles. I beat it, so I'm wondering if its about time for an oil change? Any help or tips would be appreciated.

Thanks,

gmelahn said:

Thanks for the reply, The fork was bought around December and has been ridden since early January. I usually ride about once a week on Nor Cal Trails about 15-20 miles. I beat it, so I'm wondering if its about time for an oil change? Any help or tips would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Click to expand...

I have the same fork and I think I have a guide at work. I was going to do the oil change as well but wound up taking it to the LBS and paying $20 for them to do it. It has never been the same fork either. I don't know why but it just hasn't been the plush fork it was when it was new.

The oil change is pretty easy though. The cap on the right leg unscrews with a 21mm socket and it's hollow with the oil visible. The left leg is a little more tricky. You have to remove the ETA dial and unscrew the top cap. Then there is a rod that attaches that top cap to the ETA cart and you have to unscrew that from the top cap. I'll look for that guide tomorrow. You can do a search on this topic though and probably find the one I started about a year ago. Someone posted the link to the guide.

One other thing, if you don't get the correct oil level it won't feel right. Good luck.

Thanks for the help guys. I read the other post and they were all helpful. I just saw that other people had a lot of problems with the shock not feeling the same. I hope that I have enough info so that things go ok. Also I went to a local motorcycle shop to get the oil, they didnt have a 7.5w oil. I bought Bel Ray 7w High Performance fork oil. (they said it was the best) I hope this would suffice.

I found this on a UK website it looks pretty good. I hope it helps someone else also. Keep the posts up with any tips they all help!!!!!

CHANGE YOUR FORK OIL:


ELIMINATION OF CONTAMINATION
After a season of riding, your fork could be feeling pretty ropey – any amount of dust, water and dirt can contaminate your fork oil. Extremes of temperature can introduce condensation, which will affect your fork’s performance and break down your fork oil. As the fork gets more abuse, the oil will begin to cavitate or foam and your damping control will start to deteriorate. Quite often, though, a simple oil change will bring the fork back to life again. Most manufacturers recommend an oil change every 100 hours or so, or every six months, whichever comes first.

It’s important that you use good quality tools, not the rusty ones at the back of the shed. Always use the correct size socket or ring spanner – that 16in adjustable in dad’s toolbox will only round off nuts and make it more difficult and costly next time.

Tools for the job:5mm and 6mm allen keys; 21mm socket and ratchet handle; rubber mallet; rags (old T-shirts); shock pump; GT85; fork oil; grease; small screw-driver; oil-catching vessel; small tape measure

1. Clean them
Drop the fork out of the bike and remove the brakes: it’s much easier to service the fork on its own. Using a soft brush, wash your forks in soapy water to remove any build up of dirt, then spray them all over with water-displacing fluid, such as GT85, and wipe clean. Pay particular attention to the underside of the brake arch, the fork seals and around the top caps – dirt tends to lurk in these areas and if not properly cleaned could contaminate your fork internals.

2. Big let down
If you have an air fork, remove the dust caps and carefully release the air from the Schrader valves with a small screwdriver. Hold a cloth over the valves – this will stop you getting a face full of oil when the air comes rushing out. If you have one, use a Schrader valve core remover to check and clean the air valves. If there is any damage to the seal, replace the valves. They’re available from any car spares supplier.

3. Out with the old
Undo the top caps with a socket and ratchet, then turn the fork upside down to drain the oil. Use an old bucket or washing-up bowl to catch the oil, and pump the fork to empty the cartridge fully. Give the top of the fork another wipe over to remove any old oil, and check that the rubber seals on the air caps are clean and damage free. You are now ready to start replacing the oil.

4. Fill her up mate
Fully compress the fork and fill the legs up with oil. On this Marzocchi, the oil should be 40-45mm from the top of the stanchions with the fork fully compressed. Gently extend the fork and recompress to expel any air bubbles, and then top up the oil to the correct height. If you find the damping too fast or slow, this is a good chance to rectify matters. 7.5wt is the normal weight on this fork. A heavier 10wt oil will slow things down, and a lighter 5wt oil will speed up the fork action. Check in your manual for recommended oil weights and amounts. If you don’t have one, you can usually get one from the manufacturer’s website.

5. Seal
Refit the top caps, making sure you don’t over-tighten them (20Nm if you have a torque wrench; otherwise, just nip ’em up). Smear a little grease on the rubber o-rings before fitting, this will allow the o-rings to seat properly and ensure a good seal. Compress your fork to check the amount of travel you’re getting. If you find you’re not getting full travel, whip off the top caps and lower the oil height a little. Likewise, if you want to reduce your travel, put a bit more oil in.

6. Pump it baby
Screw on your shock pump and inflate your fork to around 40psi for starters. Check the fork thoroughly for any leaks and wipe away any excess oil. Pop a little grease into your headset while the fork is out, and attach it back onto your steed. If you find the fork too soft, just increase the air pressure 5psi at a time. If it’s too hard, decrease the air pressure. Your fork’s sorted, now get out there and ride…