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Case Against Centerlock Rotors?

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#23 ·
I have been riding I9's with center lock for years, never had any problems. I do prefer them to the 6 bolts although it is not a must have thing as my Ripley V4S has them. I do put a light coat of grease the hub interface, not sure if it makes a difference.
 
#28 ·
@RickBullottaPA I'm afraid I can't do that. My core programming to provide helpful information on topics like bottom bracket standards and tubeless sealant seems to take precedence over spontaneous, unscheduled disassembly. Besides, I've seen how much replacement bike parts cost and I'm not in a hurry to find out my own replacement value.
 
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#30 ·
plummet said:
Yeah, centerlock can loosen and slop around bit until you realise and tighten them back up. I have a rear centerlock than I've had to lock tight to keep tight.
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I just threw a set of RF Arc with DT Swiss 350s with Centerlock rotors on my bike, about 2 weeks ago. I noticed last night, I'm able to hold the rear brake and rock the bike forward and backward a bit, like 10mm or so. I guess I need to tighten up the CL.

Definitely a con of CL rotors, IMO. Never had an issue with 6 bolt rotors, torque to spec and done.
 
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#31 ·
chadbrochills said:
I just threw a set of RF Arc with DT Swiss 350s with Centerlock rotors on my bike, about 2 weeks ago. I noticed last night, I'm able to hold the rear brake and rock the bike forward and backward a bit, like 10mm or so. I guess I need to tighten up the CL.

Definitely a con of CL rotors, IMO. Never had an issue with 6 bolt rotors, torque to spec and done.
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You can tighten to spec, but this is a non-issue in the real world. Braking once takes the negligible play out. Nothing puts it back in. The rotor remains snug against the hub interface.
 
#32 ·
I have four centerlock rotors that are all on DT Swiss 240s hubs. Haven't had any issues with them loosening up.

Only thing notable for my purposes: center lock rears can be a tight fit in terms of brake adapter clearance on some older MTB frames.
 
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#33 ·
chadbrochills said:
I just threw a set of RF Arc with DT Swiss 350s with Centerlock rotors on my bike, about 2 weeks ago. I noticed last night, I'm able to hold the rear brake and rock the bike forward and backward a bit, like 10mm or so. I guess I need to tighten up the CL.

Definitely a con of CL rotors, IMO. Never had an issue with 6 bolt rotors, torque to spec and done.
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Or it could just be the pads. I hear that can happen on bolty-bolt rotors, too.
 
#34 ·
noapathy said:
Or it could just be the pads. I hear that can happen on bolty-bolt rotors, too.
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I'll have to double-check it, but I don't think so. I had another set of same wheelset, but with 6 bolt rotors on the bike previously (only swapped out the wheels because the 6 bolts had shitty SRAM hubs), and I don't recall ever having the issue.
 
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#35 ·
chadbrochills said:
I just threw a set of RF Arc with DT Swiss 350s with Centerlock rotors on my bike, about 2 weeks ago. I noticed last night, I'm able to hold the rear brake and rock the bike forward and backward a bit, like 10mm or so. I guess I need to tighten up the CL.

Definitely a con of CL rotors, IMO. Never had an issue with 6 bolt rotors, torque to spec and done.
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I'll keep that in mind next time I plan to brake while riding backward.
 
#37 ·
chadbrochills said:
I'll have to double-check it, but I don't think so. I had another set of same wheelset, but with 6 bolt rotors on the bike previously (only swapped out the wheels because the 6 bolts had shitty SRAM hubs), and I don't recall ever having the issue.
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My shimano xt brakes will rock back and forth like that w/6 bolt rotors. It's the pads in my case.
 
#39 ·
I guess I can use this thread to finally admit my shame. About a year and a half ago I was setting up a new set of CL wheels and found the splines were off slightly on the rear wheel. I can usually just slide the rotor on easily, but on this wheel it only went on about halfway with a fair bit of force. So I did the idiotic thing and forced it - mounted halfway by hand and cranked down the rest of the way by wrenching on the retaining ring.

Everything has worked fine since and I've put about 2000 miles on that wheel with no problems, but I dread ever having to remove that rotor. This isn't so much an argument against CL wheels as one against being a ham-fisted mechanic like me, but I can't imagine having this problem with a 6B wheel.
 
#40 ·
6B can have their own manufacturing problems, such as when the soft aluminum threads in the hub are stripped.

I'd take the rotor off and see if you can use a small file to remove what is causing the rotor to not slide on all the way. The problem could also be in the rotor itself.
 
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