Sexy... [emoji7]
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Dreadnought!! Forbidden...
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targnik
Sexy... [emoji7]
Sent from my HD1900 using Tapatalk
1,761 - 1,780 of 1,801 Posts
Joined
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156 Posts
I'm running an 11.6 and between the rider weight/bike/riding style tune plus the huge range of compression adjustment, it can be pretty much whatever you want. For bike park and enduro races (New England riding), I've just been running it on the DH valve and "Firm DH" compression settings (i think about +1 click further closed for both HSC and LSC than recommended). it's been great for flow/jumps and tech. I have found that the "plush DH" recommended settings are too soft for my tastes. In general I find that I prefer a little more compression overall than Push suggests for initial settings. I'm also at the bottom of the weight range for the spring. Not sure what to make of all that but it feels really good to me.
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62 Posts
not to necro post but that Fox dhx2 chart is for the V1 Dread correct?
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39 Posts
Theres no way those charts are correct for the V2 I'm 195lbs and running a 550 spring, debating going up to a 575..
27.5” dropouts with a 29” wheel? That doesn’t work lolBike park setup
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190mm fork, 0mm offset 27.5 dropouts, 29" wheel with 2.4 Big Betty.
That's just for the picture, just sent it up on Friday and haven't ridden the bike since. We will see how it goes, there is plenty of clearance as is, and it balances out the tall front end nicely.
I will have the 27.5 wheel in my truck, if I notice any rubbing, lack of stability, etc., I'll just swap it in for the next run. Plan is to play around with the dropouts and wheels until I find my preferred setup.
He means 27.5 rear 29 front
I'm soon buying what's needed for the MX setup. Originally bought the bike as a 29er. I have never ridden MX and I think it would be better for the riding I do, steep tech and flow, tight corners, drops on steep terrain and some jumps, also some slab riding. I'm in Squamish. I'm 5'8.
Any experience from anyone having made the switch?
Don't think I'll lose that much performance climbing, and if I do I don't care I'll just make my way up slowly. My main concern I guess is BB clearance.
Any experience from anyone having made the switch?
Don't think I'll lose that much performance climbing, and if I do I don't care I'll just make my way up slowly. My main concern I guess is BB clearance.
No, I meant a 29" rear wheel using the 27.5 dropout. Front is 29", you are correct.
I've ridden the mullet, with both the standard (0mm) and the short (-10mm) 27.5" dropouts, preferred with the 0mm, and ended up selling the -10 to another MTBR user. The BB wasn't too low. I mostly ride the North Shore (just down from your in Squamish).
Why would you use the 29 dropout for a 27.5 wheel?
Makes me wonder what happens if I use the 29 mm drop out with the 27.5 wheel?
I believe that you are confused. I have not used the 27.5 wheel with the 29" dropouts.
I've used the following combinations, see notes:
| Wheel diameter | Dropout | Note |
| 29" | 29" x 0mm | General duty, does very well up and down. This is the configuration that I've spent the most time on. Paired with a Fox 38 @ 170mm travel. |
| 29" | 29" x +10mm | Rides well in the bike park but requires more effort/speed to jump and clear tables. Only used with Fox 38 @ 170mm. |
| 29" | 27.5" x 0mm | By mistake when I first built up the bike, I didn't realize that Forbidden had shipped it with the 27.5mm dropouts installed, and built it as dual 29" with a Fox 38 @ 170mm. Very poppy. Rode Expresso on Mt. Fromme and was popping off everything. Realizing my error when I got home, switched it to the 29"x0mm dropout and kept it there for the winter of 2024/25. |
| 27.5" | 27.5" x 0mm | Similar to 29 x 29x0mm but with more confidence in the steep tech. This would do well on the Squamish slabs. |
| 27.5" | 27.5" x -10mm | I found that the bike didn't have the poppy feel that I expected. Providing no real advantage over 27.5" x 0mm dropout, but with a shorter wheelbase. However this may be specific to my region and riding style, as the guy who bought it from me loved the 27.5" x -10 drop out. |
Joined
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106 Posts
I'm about to be on my 3rd GX Transmission rear mech, it's great when it works but this time mine just stopped functioning in the middle of a climb, battery terminal pin stopped engaging apparently, have a race this weekend too so real unfortunate timing. First warranty was due to a weak clutch.
I'm strongly considering switching to XTR which I run on my other bikes. Any else made the switch back to cables on their Dread? My only hangup is the potentially more difficult set up with cable drivetrain and the high pivot...
I'm strongly considering switching to XTR which I run on my other bikes. Any else made the switch back to cables on their Dread? My only hangup is the potentially more difficult set up with cable drivetrain and the high pivot...
Joined
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796 Posts
Id recommend going XO. The SRAM XO or XX mechs don’t have the same battery issue as the GX because of the battery orientation. Sell that GX go XO.
Joined
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106 Posts
Interesting, my shop was saying SRAM is on v3 of the GX ones due to the issues they've had. It's just hard to see the value when I can get a full XTR drivetrain for close to the cost of a single XO derailleur.
Joined
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796 Posts
Yeah true. Though XTR you can’t shift under load as well and one big hit to a rock and it’s done.
Joined
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3,181 Posts
Intend Hover Monocoque Dreadnought v2 Shock!
For Sale - $1250 shipped
This is the latest and greatest from Intend. It’s probably the most beautiful shock I have seen. I bought it release and they sold out immediately. It’s tuned for a Dreadnought v2.
Weight is 400 grams. Crazy light for a shocking that rivals coil
BRAND NEW. Only taken out of the box.
Decided not to use on this bike. Could rerune but decided to sell here and order a new one for Firebird.
Can ship immediately.
Joined
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156 Posts
Anyone have experience with the Aenomaly Switchgrade? A lot of the reviews focus on the climbing but a few say that the nose-up saddle position makes it feel like you have 20-30mm more seatpost drop.
I love my Dreadnought but the limited seat tube insertion is a bummer. I could probably run a 175 post but it won't fit slammed into the S1 frame. I occasionally bump the seat on jumps or in the steeps. Its not a deal breaker but at an enduro race last weekend, I went OTB during practice in a steep rock garden and mashed my beanbag into the back of the seat. My skills came up short there but I'd gladly pay $175 to minimize the consequences next time!
I love my Dreadnought but the limited seat tube insertion is a bummer. I could probably run a 175 post but it won't fit slammed into the S1 frame. I occasionally bump the seat on jumps or in the steeps. Its not a deal breaker but at an enduro race last weekend, I went OTB during practice in a steep rock garden and mashed my beanbag into the back of the seat. My skills came up short there but I'd gladly pay $175 to minimize the consequences next time!
Well the battery has remained horizontal so the problem will only be fixed if they A. Flip the battery to be vertical, or B. Stop using the delicate pogo pins and go to something more robust. Look on PB or FB for a X0, you can sometimes find them cheap.
Joined
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167 Posts
I have one on my Druid - was skeptical at first, but managed to snap one up for a bargain price and thought I'd give it a whirl on the bike I ran before the Druid. Complete game-changer for me, wouldn't go back to a non-Switchgrade setup. Really find them to be useful.
Joined
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156 Posts
Thanks for the input. Do you find it has benefits on descents?
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