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Discussion starter · #41 ·
Hopefully this one holds up as well as my others, because getting small frame parts in the USA is a chore. Scott prefers to go through a dealer and the ones near me are resort town rental shops. It may be better if your Scott dealer is a high quality & volume LBS. (I remember you were dealing with Jenson, which sounds like a near worst case scenario).
I have:
'17 Spark RC
'20 Ransom
'21 Gambler
'22 Spark Trail
'23 Spark Trail (wife's)
'23 Genius ST
'24 Foil
'25 Ransom

The only problems have been: The Genius came missing a rubber frame hole plug and a jumped chain broke its chain guide. A pebble lodged between the '20 Ransom's frame & ProPedal lever, causing an oil leak.
Is it tempting fate to own a fleet of Scotts in the USA and publicly announce how trouble-free they've been?
Haha, well I guess we know who's keeping them in business in the states! Seriously though, I'm happy they're working out for you. It could be that I just got a lemon, and after all, it's a Bold, not Scott. I am super curious about how the suspension on the Ransom feels because it has a few extra pivots on the rear stay, which is my complaint on the Bold, is that going over square stuff up or down, there is a tendency to really get hung up. I tuned my shock a bunch and that helped a ton, but something about the suspension design just wants to stick on those edges.
 
Ok, I am familiar with your trail systems, so we’re speaking the same language terrain-wise. I had a Reign (non SX) last year overforked (can be overshocked, too) that I really liked as a daily driver. Great pedaling bike, soft off the top, maybe not an absolute destroyer.

Sticking by the Enduro recommendation and you should be able to get it cheap.

Also, Forbidden Dreadnaught is a no-brainer, but you don’t want an idler.

Knolly suspension does really work if you’re open to a super boost rear and the geo works for you.
 
Now that I read your further description I'm kinda leaning hard on the new Firebird for you. It was built to handle National on South Mountain which, despite what anyone might tell you about "flow", is all massive rocks with sharp edges, tons of drops and you absolutely need the ability to climb with it. Is the absolute best bike for that? Eh, who knows, I can only tell you that it is great for it and that it was built exactly for what you describe so it definitely fits the bill.
 
I'm in Vegas, so pretty similar to Phoenix. Nobody understands what "chunk" is until they ride in the SW lol. But yeah, my concerns aren't cornering in berms, or how does it launch, or anything else park related. But, we do need to handle going fast over very square and nightmareish rocks, and some bigish drops that land pretty flat frequently. Like I said, I don't think one (park, fast/smooth enduro) is exclusive of the other, but I'm just concerned with the former.



I was looking at the 2025 Reign Advanceds. I have a Giant shop near me, so it's tempting just for the availability and ease of potentially getting parts when needed...but at just 10mm more travel than my current bike, I'm really wanting to go substantially bigger if possible.
I understand this. We used to have visitors on our South Mountain shuttles that would assure the group they were used to "tech" terrain, only to find out it was a few levels above what they thought of as "tech", then they were walking down or crashing and it wasn't always a good ending.

This screams two things IMO. Either high pivot (with idler) or custom tuned shock like Avalanche, Push, Vorsprung, etc. The first will eat the square edged stuff great and can probably get away easier with an OEM shock. Anything that is more conventional really needs a custom tune to have the proper chassis stability while taking those hits IME. The OEM stuff usually has restrictive circuits that you have to run "open", else they spike, and then you get very poor chassis stability at speed in the rough. When you have a good custom setup, it lets you ride stuff in control and with confidence that would usually take a "bigger bike", being significantly more capable than stock stuff which tends to limit your speed, as in you are unconsciously hitting the brakes and slowing down because of how it handles at the limit.
 
Discussion starter · #45 · (Edited)
The OEM stuff usually has restrictive circuits that you have to run "open", else they spike, and then you get very poor chassis stability at speed in the rough.
Yeah, it took me a while to get my current shock anywhere close to where I thought it should be.

As for the idler stuff, I'll be honest, I really hate dealing with mechanical stuff. I loathe having to work on my bike other than standard maintenance. The thought of having to deal with more complexity, have more parts on hand, etc. is a deal breaker.

I can setup my bikes ok and wrench on them because I've had years and years of practice, but I just don't want to add any complexity to anything, no matter what the performance gains are unless I suddenly become world champ or something ha.
 
The OEM stuff usually has restrictive circuits that you have to run "open", else they spike, and then you get very poor chassis stability at speed in the rough. When you have a good custom setup, it lets you ride stuff in control and with confidence that would usually take a "bigger bike", being significantly more capable than stock stuff which tends to limit your speed, as in you are unconsciously hitting the brakes and slowing down because of how it handles at the limit.
Why do RS and Fox design OEM suspension like this anyway? Seems like they have even more time and resources than custom tuners do and yet they can't make their products work near as well.
It's not like Avalanche is breaking the laws of physics or using top secret knowledge to do what they do. Is it just the process of trying to make something that "works" for riders of all weights that messes things up?

PS My next bike purchase is going to be a custom tune for my Bomber CR. Not right away though since I want to get it set up as well as I can first so I can have a good before/after comparison.
 
I have been watching this thread from the sidelines. Although on the east coast, we ride primarily singletrack with some of the gnarliest rocks you have ever seen. Maybe not huge drops but rock tech up and down that most people can’t ride. Mainstream bikes aren’t built for it and bad suspension setup just plain stinks.

I have had a ton of bikes and settled on both the Druid v2 and Dreadnought v2. I know you don’t want or maybe don’t understand or maybe have some other aversion to high pivot but for this type riding it’s difficult to beat. However I have tuned suspension on each (Push forks, Elevensix shocks, and have the stock air shocks tuned for me and the bike) I change the setups when I ride different tracks which between these two bikes and the convertible suspension covers my bases well.

Note - the rear suspension of these bikes make a normal fork look bad. Pair with a properly tuned and high quality fork.

The Dread pedals better than expected with the higher anti squat. The Druid is oh so capable. Probably 5 foot drops and higher speeds is what separates the two.

The key to these drivetrains is simple keep clean and well lubed. Otherwise once setup it’s somewhat maintenance free. I have been waxing for years but have found Silca Synergetic lube the quietest through all conditions. But sandy stuff temporarily causes some grind.

Not pushing the these bikes but I can tell you for what you describe they check a lot of bases.
 
I made a thread about this in the parts forum, but since you asked: Not without going through a warranty. There are no parts available except through warranty. If you want to buy something, you can't. Scott parts, especially the Syncros stuff, might work, but that's a gamble.

Since Jenson were apparently the only ones who sold them in the US, that means there is no LBS or "easy" way to take the bike in some place, or even call an out of state/area shop to ask about parts.

I just broke a linkage bolt on Wednesday. Or I should say it broke, just materially defective and it snapped, but anyhow...I contacted Scott/Bold. They told me to go see if the LBS that were Scott dealers had any parts. Well, both dealers have since dropped Scott, so they didn't. So then I called back to Scott and the answer was (~verbatim), "Umm, you'll have to contact Jenson, they're the ones who bought all of our bikes. Maybe they can help." Great, thanks so much.

So, I contacted Jenson (which, of course I bought the bike from, since they're the only ones who sold them, unbeknownst to me) and asked about buying parts. Nope. I have to open a warranty claim. So now Jenson opens the warranty, sends that to Scott, and Scott is hopefully going to send out parts...sometime. Maybe Monday, but who knows. In short, just a bureaucratic and customer service disaster in my opinion, which, along with some insight from the local bike shops as to Scott's long history of giving the middle finger to shops and customers, along with some very poor engineering decisions and parts breaking, has lead me to the position of "never own a Scott."
that's piss poor mate, I can just phone my nearest Scott dealer(1hr drive away) and they will have or get the parts I want or need ASAP.
IF I lost or snapped a pivot bolt, I would buy a whole pivot/bearing kit to get the one part, but the shop often offers the one part out of the kit as long as it's not an odd or rare Scott part.

It sounds like it's a States dealer/importer issue and each one pointing at each other.
 
I would not intentionally buy a dead bike brand, no matter how good.

Also, the weird sag requirements seem like a cover up for poor geo choices when the frame was designed.
Whats wrong with 30% sag?

If not WAO, id get a banshee titan. I had one for much longer than i normally keep bikes around, usually i can find something not to like about a frame but that one was pretty perfect for me at least. I ended up just wanting to try other things but id ride another one. It has a similar feel to the WAO (stiff, total plow in a straight line) but heavier obviously and the higher stack is nice. And climbing, i used to do 8-10k ft pedaling days on it with DD tires and a coil shock, and not once did i touch the lockout.
 
Canfield One or Knolly Delirium/Chilcotin? If you’re in Vegas you’ll see tons of Knolly’s at Bootleg.
I’m definitely sympathetic to the concerns with Transition, but my Spire has been flawless, and with a coil the rear end just disappears. A Cascade Link will bump it up to 180 as well.

The Megatower is another option, and with the Cascade Link you can bump the travel up to 190, so that’s another solid option!

Edit: adding an ochain or Rimpact also makes a significant difference in calming things down in the higher speed chunk.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Now that I read your further description I'm kinda leaning hard on the new Firebird for you. It was built to handle National on South Mountain which, despite what anyone might tell you about "flow", is all massive rocks with sharp edges, tons of drops and you absolutely need the ability to climb with it. Is the absolute best bike for that? Eh, who knows, I can only tell you that it is great for it and that it was built exactly for what you describe so it definitely fits the bill.
I guess my main detractors on the Firebird are 1) I'm really focused on going noticeably "bigger" than my go to, which is 150/160. If I was going to replace that, I'd 100% go with a Switchblade. But, if I'm going to spend all the money on another bike, I want it to really let me feel comfortable pushing beyond where I'm at now, and a bike that will let me grow as a rider and push things without it being overtly sketch (like I'm feeling it is now).

And 2- The cost! Man, when I spec out similar competitors, they're coming in around $2k-$5k less. As awesome as Pivots are, that's just too much of a premium for me to stomach.

I have been watching this thread from the sidelines. Although on the east coast, we ride primarily singletrack with some of the gnarliest rocks you have ever seen. Maybe not huge drops but rock tech up and down that most people can’t ride. Mainstream bikes aren’t built for it and bad suspension setup just plain stinks.

I have had a ton of bikes and settled on both the Druid v2 and Dreadnought v2. I know you don’t want or maybe don’t understand or maybe have some other aversion to high pivot but for this type riding it’s difficult to beat. However I have tuned suspension on each (Push forks, Elevensix shocks, and have the stock air shocks tuned for me and the bike) I change the setups when I ride different tracks which between these two bikes and the convertible suspension covers my bases well.

Note - the rear suspension of these bikes make a normal fork look bad. Pair with a properly tuned and high quality fork.

The Dread pedals better than expected with the higher anti squat. The Druid is oh so capable. Probably 5 foot drops and higher speeds is what separates the two.

The key to these drivetrains is simple keep clean and well lubed. Otherwise once setup it’s somewhat maintenance free. I have been waxing for years but have found Silca Synergetic lube the quietest through all conditions. But sandy stuff temporarily causes some grind.

Not pushing the these bikes but I can tell you for what you describe they check a lot of bases.
I've never ridden one to be honest, but assuming there's not some giant marketing conspiracy, I totally believe what people say and have no doubt that in terms of suspension performance, that's the best option. But I really hate dealing with extra complexity. And extra things breaking. And the extra weight climbing (I'm old school, and can absolutely not be convinced that "weight doesn't matter" that's just not in my dna lol.).

Canfield One or Knolly Delirium/Chilcotin? If you’re in Vegas you’ll see tons of Knolly’s at Bootleg.
I’m definitely sympathetic to the concerns with Transition, but my Spire has been flawless, and with a coil the rear end just disappears. A Cascade Link will bump it up to 180 as well.

The Megatower is another option, and with the Cascade Link you can bump the travel up to 190, so that’s another solid option!

Edit: adding an ochain or Rimpact also makes a significant difference in calming things down in the higher speed chunk.
Ya, Bootleg and to a lesser extent Cowboy (for people that don't know, those are the two more gnar systems in Las Vegas) is what has me on this kick. I've pushed the bike to about the limits, and while I kill the all-mountain stuff and climbs, it feels like running the razor's edge going fast on the downhills, even with inserts. O-chain- I have the poor-mans solution: Use an 18T ratchet hub lol. (Seriously though, it works, sucks for climbing tech, but it works).

Lee Canyon bike park is also a fun day trip, although with my current bike I don't feel especially under-biked (brakes excepted) on any of the trails, except when I mess up a jump. There's obviously way less margin for error, but running the new double black is fine (again, for those that aren't familiar, that's probably a Whistler blueish black).

I looked at the Megatower. I wish I could demo one, but nobody has any out here. I guess why I haven't considered them is that compared to the competitors they consistently get bad remarks about pedaling. Cowboy is 100% a pedal up, Bootleg has the shuttle, but only on the weekends, so if everything else is equal, I'm going to favor the more efficient climbers in the shootout.
 
I think I mentioned this earlier, but "more travel" in and of itself isn't necessarily going to make a super plush bike, and the characteristics that are going to make a bike feel like a ultra-plush mini-DH are going to encourage climbing traction, but probably aren't going to feel "peppy" per se.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
I think I mentioned this earlier, but "more travel" in and of itself isn't necessarily going to make a super plush bike, and the characteristics that are going to make a bike feel like a ultra-plush mini-DH are going to encourage climbing traction, but probably aren't going to feel "peppy" per se.
Ya, suspension is complicated. I'm at 210lbs, plus water (minimum 3L out here in Summer, so ~+7lbs), gear, etc. Basically at that weight any bike I ride is going to be on the firmer side by necessity of getting the suspension setup within reasonable sag limits. I'm not getting much fitter or skinnier than I am now, so it is what it is.

I know people love to say that travel has no relation to weight of rider, but physics is physics, for air shocks at least (Boyle's law). Starting with more travel (and more internal volume) for any given pressure means the ramp up is going to be less severe than starting with lower volume, which is obviously how tokens work. So, an average or lighter rider's "plush" is going to be my firm, just by way of the pressures needed to start with.
 
The one thing I’d say is that just because numbers match it doesn’t mean on trail performance will. That’s true in multiple ways so that’s not me saying to buy the Pivot. It is just that I’ve tried multiple bikes that were basically identical on paper but that didn’t seem the same at all on trail.
 
YT is having growth issues. A lot of people griping about no support, bikes not shipping, etc. So, I’m going to stick with companies that have it together more.
I’ve bought two bikes from them, one in the midst of Covid and I never had a problem with shipping, tracking, support when a box was delivered with a big hole in the side from the shipping company and stuff was damaged. Unlike most brands I can go on their site and buy all the weird linkage bolts, shock bolts, bearings, seals, axles and whatever else I may need. Most brands don’t even have info online much less actual parts availability.

Don’t believe what I or anyone else says on the internet. But whatever you think is right.
 
I saw Scott Ransom mentioned... I had a 2021 model and it pedaled horribly. It was probably the bike I owned for the least amount of time (I hated it).
Ironically, I don't have any real hills where I ride, but I have two bikes that pedal very well. I'd consider something with CBF (Canfield or Vampire- that one looks sweet), or DW Link (there are a few different brands/models).
 
Discussion starter · #60 · (Edited)
I’ve bought two bikes from them, one in the midst of Covid and I never had a problem with shipping, tracking, support when a box was delivered with a big hole in the side from the shipping company and stuff was damaged. Unlike most brands I can go on their site and buy all the weird linkage bolts, shock bolts, bearings, seals, axles and whatever else I may need. Most brands don’t even have info online much less actual parts availability.

Don’t believe what I or anyone else says on the internet. But whatever you think is right.
I don't really see why you're offended. Also, I don't believe everything, but I do follow them on social media and I see a lot of people complaining. Your experience 5 years ago is grand, but doesn't do much for me right now.
 
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