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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Those rims aren't tubeless compatible, but there are still tubeless options available. If it were me I'd do split tube tubeless.
I watched a video of a guy mounting tubeless tires on these rims. It worked. The process involved getting the bead to seat, with a tube. Then carefully removing tube leaving one side of the bead seated. Flipping the wheel to allow gravity's help. Then seating the other. It worked for him.

What is spilt tube tubeless?
 
Jumping in late on this thread. I don’t think upgrading a cheap fat bike is a foolish thing, mostly because that’s what I did. When I was trying to figure out if I’d like fat biking I bought a closeout 2017 SE Bikes F@R. It was heavy, slow, and an absolute blast. It had the Shimano components and clearance for 4.8s that I wanted. Second season I had it I decided it needed to go on a diet. Carbon fork, carbon seat post, carbon bars, and I built carbon wheels for it that I set up tubeless. Rode it that way for multiple seasons and upgraded whatever broke. Last fall I noticed that I’d cracked the frame. Replaced the frame with a carbon Salsa Mukluk frame, transferred over everything except the seatpost (due to size), and the cranks (added more carbon), and now have a wicked light fat bike that is a blast to ride. Sure, I paid more for it in the long run than it would have cost to buy new, but it is mine and I’ve turned every bolt on it, and selected every component. I love it and would do it the exact same way again. BTW, the original bike lives on in only the shifters, the brake levers, the stem, and the stem cap. Everything else has been replaced. Apart from the carbon wheelset I built and the brake calipers, everything has been sourced secondhand.

Relevant to the current topic within your thread, carbon rims set up tubeless wicked easy. ;)
 
Jumping in late on this thread. I don’t think upgrading a cheap fat bike is a foolish thing, mostly because that’s what I did. When I was trying to figure out if I’d like fat biking I bought a closeout 2017 SE Bikes F@R. It was heavy, slow and an absolute blast. It had the Shimano components and clearance for 4.8s that I wanted. Second season I had it I decided it needed to go on a diet. Carbon fork, carbon seat post, carbon bars, and I built carbon wheels for it that I set up tubeless. Rode it that way for multiple seasons and upgraded whatever broke. Last fall I noticed that I’d cracked the frame. Replaced the frame with a carbon Salsa Mukluk frame, transferred over everything except the seatpost (due to size) and now have a wicked light fat bike that is a blast to ride. Sure, I paid more for it in the long run than it would have cost to buy new, but it is mine and I’ve turned every bolt on it, and selected every component. I love it and would do it the exact same way again. BTW, the original bike lives on in only the shifters, the brake levers, the stem, and the stem cap. Everything else has been replaced.

Relevant to the current topic within your thread, carbon rims set up tubeless wicked easy. ;)
Hope you hung the cracked frame on the wall in appreciation of what it led you to😀
 
Gonna have to wait on new wheels and a fork. But, she's up and running! Handles SOOO much better! View attachment 2150203
Gonna have to wait on new wheels and a fork. But, she's up and running! Handles SOOO much better! View attachment 2150203
Bike looks great, proportions are spot on….I think I might just ride it as is….Are those rims 100mm wide ‘cause they look badass with those tires, giving off a low profile vibe…
I might buy it a dropper post if I was you just because of safety and ease of starting off.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
It's fun. It does have a low rider feel. It's still pretty heavy and that's part of what I want to correct. Yes, they are 100mm and the tires I'm super happy with. Even though i planned on using it for snow, I think I'm gonna ride around the neighborhood in it!
 
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