Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

Clydes Breaking Chains, 2025 Edition...

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

Moto26

· Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I searched this subject and didn't find anything more recent than 2020, so I thought I'd bring it up again. And this is for Clydes only, so I don't need to hear the opinions of any 140 lb. XC racers or DH specialists, etc... (or ilmfat)

I'm 210 lbs. without gear, and I've just broken my third chain in the last couple seasons.

The first one was the stock NX on my Roscoe at about 300 miles. The second one was on my wife's Wasatch Peak, also an NX with only 100 miles on it. I put this down to, "well, the NX chain sucks and I'm a big guy". I replaced both of them with GX chains and they were fine after that, until we sold them both.

But today I broke the GX T-type chain on my Izzo. It has about 800 miles on it. So my questions are:

- Does that sound like too many miles for that chain, for a guy my weight, and should I change it out earlier? (It's within stretching limits)

- Do I need to upgrade to an even better chain, like an XO T-type? (Or XX worth the further upgrade?)

- Am I just a leadfoot, and I should work as a chain tester?

- And lastly, any good sales going on currently on T-type chains?

FWIW, I ride in the AZ desert exclusively, never in mud, and rarely even in rain...
 
#3 ·
Any idea what kind of power you are putting down? I’m 214 lbs and race both cyclocross and MTB and have thousands of miles of riding and racing on SRAM eagle. Have never broken a SRAM eagle chain and use mechanical drivetrains only.

I put out enough power to regularly destroy pawl hubs (Formula, WTB, Elitewheels) so have settled on DT Swiss ratchet hubs, but chains are fine.

I do only get around 500 miles out of NX and GX chains and around 1000 out of X01, so the quality matters for abrasive wear, however there is nothing breaking.

So I’m inclined to go operator error as well.
When does it break? When shifting? On jumps?
 
#4 ·
palmasi said:
Any idea what kind of power you are putting down? I’m 214 lbs and race both cyclocross and MTB and have thousands of miles of riding and racing on SRAM eagle. Have never broken a SRAM eagle chain and use mechanical drivetrains only.

I put out enough power to regularly destroy pawl hubs (Formula, WTB, Elitewheels) so have settled on DT Swiss ratchet hubs, but chains are fine.

I do only get around 500 miles out of NX and GX chains and around 1000 out of X01, so the quality matters for abrasive wear, however there is nothing breaking.

So I’m inclined to go operator error as well.
When does it break? When shifting? On jumps?
Click to expand...
AMEN! Weigh about the same as you and never break chains. I've ripped teeth off cogs/chainrings, split a 2 piece cassette under power, but my chains last a long time even without proper maintenance. Wonder if the OP is doing something wrong...bad chainline, poor shifting?
 
#5 ·
Muse MTB said:
AMEN! Weigh about the same as you and never break chains. I've ripped teeth off cogs/chainrings, split a 2 piece cassette under power, but my chains last a long time even without proper maintenance. Wonder if the OP is doing something wrong...bad chainline, poor shifting?
Click to expand...
I'm lighter (more like clyde adjacent, at ~180-190lbs without gear). And, I'm also no powerlifter, but I was a competitive soccer player for ~15 years, and at one point was doing leg press of ~650lbs, and even now, on my trainer I can easily output ~1000-1200w (not trying to do a weird flex, just more providing a data point that I'm not on team skinny legs).

I've never broken a chain, but have damaged the freehub interface on HG freehubs (even the Onyx ones with steel inserts designed to prevent that).

Given that I see a lot of T type chains under ebikes, I'd assume that they're relatively robust (as ebikes add another ~750w to the power output of your average joe). I mean, not all ebikers are going to be mashing the pedals super hard, but I'd imagine that with so many out there with this config, we'd have been hearing about it was a big problem.

So, my first thought was also about operator error. BUT. Isn't GX T-type AXS? The one they advertise as shifting under load, because it only times the shifts for when its possible/safe to shift under load, rather than randomly/whenever you pull the lever? And isn't that why lots of people complain about the "slow" shifting?

If so, then you'd think that operator error would be greatly reduced, since the derailleur/brain is already deciding by itself when to shift?
 
#6 ·
ocnLogan said:
If so, then you'd think that operator error would be greatly reduced, since the derailleur/brain is already deciding by itself when to shift?
Click to expand...
We were just being the troll OP summoned. We did not expect you other meatsacks to agree with us.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
palmasi said:
Any idea what kind of power you are putting down?

So I’m inclined to go operator error as well.
When does it break? When shifting? On jumps?
Click to expand...
Muse MTB said:
AMEN! Weigh about the same as you and never break chains. I've ripped teeth off cogs/chainrings, split a 2 piece cassette under power, but my chains last a long time even without proper maintenance. Wonder if the OP is doing something wrong...bad chainline, poor shifting?
Click to expand...
Couldn't begin to tell you what kind of power I'm putting down, but I doubt it's as much as you. I'm 62, got back into MTB just 3 years ago. I'm coaching with my son's high school XC team, and I'm riding fast enough to keep up with the low end of B group, so I'm not dawdling, but I'm not thrashing up hills like a pro, either.

All three chains have broken while powering up a hill. They've all snapped across a pin hole. My first one, you might could put down to ham-fisted shifting. Maybe. The one on my wife's bike, I was not riding aggressively at all on her brand new bike, trust me. 2000+ miles later, I think I've figured out how to shift properly. Plus, the GX T-type system I have now is supposed to time the shifts on its own, to the point where you can shift under load. But in any case, I don't think I'm abusing the system any more than the average rider.

Chain line on all of these bikes is as they came from the factory, and I've checked B-gap on all of them. Maintenance is a non-issue. I come from many years racing and maintaining motorcycles. My machines are in good shape.

That you guys have broken so many components except for chains staggers me...
 
#10 ·
Moto26 said:
Couldn't begin to tell you what kind of power I'm putting down, but I doubt it's as much as you. I'm 62, got back into MTB just 3 years ago. I'm coaching with my son's high school XC team, and I'm riding fast enough to keep up with the low end of B group, so I'm not dawdling, but I'm not thrashing up hills like a pro, either.

All three chains have broken while powering up a hill. They've all snapped across a pin hole. My first one, you might could put down to ham-fisted shifting. Maybe. The one on my wife's bike, I was not riding aggressively at all on her brand new bike, trust me. 2000+ miles later, I think I've figured out how to shift properly. Plus, the GX T-type system I have now is supposed to time the shifts on its own, to the point where you can shift under load. But in any case, I don't think I'm abusing the system any more than the average rider.

Chain line on all of these bikes is as they came from the factory, and I've checked B-gap on all of them. Maintenance is a non-issue. I come from many years racing and maintaining motorcycles. My machines are in good shape.

That you guys have broken so many components except for chains staggers me...
Click to expand...
Just go SS and be done with chain hassles...and at least if you break one then, you know it wasn't shifting poorly that did it.
 
#11 ·
A personal observation of riding with some big guys.

I have several guys that I ride with that are definitely larger than the OP. The smallest guy is 260 (known weight) and the other two are definitely bigger, so I'm guessing 270 and maybe 275. All of them fast with an abundance of available power. The two biggest guys are also the most seasoned and experienced riders. So here's the interesting part. The two big guys almost never break parts. The lightest (260 lbs.) is always breaking everything and he's on higher quality, high end components.

The apparent answer appears when riding behind these guys. The two heaviest guys ride like their flowing and floating through the trails. No hard drives out of the corners, no obvious aggressive power application and you rarely hear them even shifting. It's as if they are one, fluid unit curving through and down the trail. They are graceful and smooth with every turn of the cranks. They understand power management, when to apply it, and to what level is necessary in maintaining maximum momentum and speed. They make it look so easy and effortless. And these are the big guys that never seem break anything.

Ron, the lightest guy at 260 is a different story. He seems to buy the most expensive stuff and maintains it well, but manages to trash drive train components like they were made of plastic. The difference is evident when riding behind him. He drives hard and rides hard. He stands up and powers up hills and brawns his way through the turns. The power level is impressive, but he displays excessive use of his strengths with no regard for the force he commands of his components. His shifts are not well planned or executed. His shifts are a synonymous to driving a manual transmission without the use of the clutch. Hard and loud. He muscles his ride equally as fast as the others, but he does it through brute strength and power.

What the apparent difference is how the big guys finesse their bikes through the trails with the grace and elegance of a butterfly and Ron stays with them through his authority of power and rule.

While this might not be a text book case, it leaves the observer with a clear and concise answer to where the root problem appears to lie. So perhaps treating the problem and not the symptom could yield a different and more desirable result. Perhaps some coaching might be in order.
 
#12 ·
I'm 6' 215, fairly aggressive rider and have never broken a chain, ever. What's your maintenance schedule like? Clean and lube regularly and don't use harsh solvents on it !!! I use X01 on my enduro bike and currently have T-Type on my Tallboy. I get well over 1,500 miles before any signs of chain stretch or wear.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#13 ·
If you are shifting while powering up a hill while hitting a bump or bouncing up and down on a full suspension bike you can break a lot of chains as chain growth adds a lot of stress to the chain. Since I don't have transmission I can't say that is an issue it also has, but it sounds like it.

I would back off the power if you are shifting when hitting a bump or having pedal bob. And might as well buy a xo chain, because they might be stronger. GX chains wear out way faster, so XO is at least harder.
 
#14 ·
I remember reading an article where Jared Graves was teaching Rude how to stop snapping chains. Rude can lay down the power for sure and apparently he was causing excessive failures until Graves schooled him. This was when Rude had just come off Jr World champs for the EWS tour. He wasn't experienced with hard sprinting on a trail bike with lots of gears I guess? Rude was 190 when he entered the EWS I believe so not a Clyde but not a lean cardio freak either.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Moto26 said:
Couldn't begin to tell you what kind of power I'm putting down, but I doubt it's as much as you. I'm 62, got back into MTB just 3 years ago. I'm coaching with my son's high school XC team, and I'm riding fast enough to keep up with the low end of B group, so I'm not dawdling, but I'm not thrashing up hills like a pro, either.

All three chains have broken while powering up a hill. They've all snapped across a pin hole. My first one, you might could put down to ham-fisted shifting. Maybe. The one on my wife's bike, I was not riding aggressively at all on her brand new bike, trust me. 2000+ miles later, I think I've figured out how to shift properly. Plus, the GX T-type system I have now is supposed to time the shifts on its own, to the point where you can shift under load. But in any case, I don't think I'm abusing the system any more than the average rider.

Chain line on all of these bikes is as they came from the factory, and I've checked B-gap on all of them. Maintenance is a non-issue. I come from many years racing and maintaining motorcycles. My machines are in good shape.

That you guys have broken so many components except for chains staggers me...
Click to expand...
Wait wait.

Question here.

How are you installing the chains?

Are you by chance cutting the chains, and re-installing the pins that you just pushed out to re-connect the chain? Or are you installing using the quick links?

I ask because you talk about racing and maintaining motorcycles, and on some moto chains isn't the process to push the pin out, and push it back in when you're installing the chain? (forgive my ignorance, I've not owned a moto, but I rode with my dad as a kid, and remember him doing maintenance, and seem to remember that).

In fact, the first time I installed a bike chain, I did the whole pin press out/press back in thing, without realizing that it wasn't the correct way to do it. I disassembled/didn't ride it like that, but, I nearly did.

Perhaps that is what is happening here?

I've broken wheels/spokes, and made a few fork CSU's creak. But no chain breakage so far (crosses fingers).
 
#17 ·
gdb85 said:
I personally do not or will not ride a NX or Gx chain of my own free will. Rentals or loaners being outliers.

Test after test (along with my experience) shows XO1 and XX1 to be far superior chains. That being said one needs to (myself inc) pedal a tad more ballerina than Sumo. FYI I'm 5'11"-205lb
Click to expand...
I'll 2nd that, been running either X0's or X01's on my bikes for years now, never had one break and I can get 2000+ miles out of one,
 
#18 ·
When I weighed that much and a little more, I used to MASH gears in stupid gear combos. I stripped out a DT star ratchet and I would kill the shimano freehubs in about a year. I'd wear cassettes out easily in a year, chains gave me about 3-4 months top.

Looking back, I didn't realize that spinning at high RPM was far better for endurance on a ride, as in when going up steep hills, get into an easy gear and turn it fast. If you can't turn 90-100rpm, get a smaller front ring or bigger rear cassette. If you don't have any options here, I would think about training up harder, gym days, etc., to get you able to turn those gears more effectively and get the rpm up. I have to think this is better for the longevity of the drivetrain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ezra E
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#19 ·
I keep telling that e-bikes and heavy new MTB rides was main reasoning for transmission and slow shifting. XC racers weren't breaking any Eagle AXS deraileurs/chains.

I do agree that you wanna be above 80rpm, if not shift lower. What to do when you're in the lowest gear tho :cry:
 
#20 ·
My hardtail (shimano slx 11s) is a chain breaker however my full suspension bike (shimano xt 12s) is not. I am a soft shifter and if I end up on a steep hill in the wrong gear I will power through rather than shift under heavy load.

The big difference is crankarm to chainring size. Hardtail is 28t (120mm diameter) with a 175mm crank, the fs is 32t (136mm diameter) with a 170 crank. Assuming I am standing on the pedal going up hill (full 200lbs on 1 pedal):
200*175/60 = 583 lbs
200*170/68 = 500 lbs
or 16% higher force for a given load.

Chainring Diameter by Tooth Count

Some bicycle frames have an upper limit for the maximum chainring size you can use due to clearance between the chainring and chainstay. We created the table and printable PDF below to help you determine how large of a chainring will physically fit on your bike. If you print out the PDF below at...
www.wolftoothcomponents.com www.wolftoothcomponents.com
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
About this Discussion
30 Replies
18 Participants
Last post:
ilmfat
Mountain Bike Reviews Forum
posts
16M
members
534K
Since
1990
A forum community dedicated to Mountain Bike owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about bike parts, components, deals, performance, modifications, classifieds, trails, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General Discussion Downhill - Freeride California - Norcal Shocks and Suspension Passion